2G 95 Talon TSi Electrical Mess

[ryanx99GS]

My buddy and I are working on a 95 Talon TSi that has it's electrical all hacked up and we can't figure out what to do so I need some help, if any, that you can give.

1) When the clutch is pushed in, the brake lights come on. Also, when the key is turned on, the left blinker keeps going off and will not turn off.

2) On top of that, the car did turn over before we installed a SAFC. We had to remove the SAFC because it ended up being fried, but now, the car wont turn off. It just clicks. We did wire the ECU back to the way it was before we put in the SAFC.

Does anyone have any ideas to what the hell is going on?

 

[wrencher]

Doesn't sound like the type of thing that can be figured out sight unseen sorry...

Must've been some serious hacking in there to affect that in that manner.
I would get the diagrams & start tracing all the affected circuits one by one.
Was there an alarm installed or?

 

[ryanx99GS]

There used to be a Viper alarm installed apparently

 

[DSM Chase]

Good luck with that, my car had a viper alarm system in it also, there are wires spliced into the window motor switches in the driver door along with some sort of viper fuse box, that will have to be removed. Also take out the radio and make sure the starter relay and security system relays are good an the wires don't have viper stuff tapped into them. I actually am bypassing my security relay jus with a wire and no relay. I had that same clicking noise problem. You must be sure all that viper stuff is gone and the wires are all back spliced stock.

 

[PXHero]

This may seem like an odd question, but how are you reconnecting your wires? Solder and tape? Twisting the copper together and taping? Crimp caps or butt connectors? Wire nuts? (Please for the love of God, not wire nuts )

1. Sounds like the clutch circuit and the brake circuit are feeding each other +12V. Can you start the car only stepping on the brake? If so, there may be some sort of "terribly wrong/poor installation" version of a clutch bypass if there was a remote start attached to the alarm.

As for the signals, it could be a faulty switch. Easiest way to check is to swap it with a new one, however that's not the cheapest way. Disconnect the switch plug and see if your signal problem still occurs. If yes, then you know it's not the switch, the problem lies elsewhere.

2. Since the vehicle started and shut down before you put in the SAFC, but not after you removed it, either you have a bad reconnection, or the bad SAFC did something bad to your ECU.

Pics of a few areas might help. Take off the panel under your steering column. Should be 4 10mm bolts. Remove your driver side sill plate, and kick panel. Sill should "pop" off with a little pressure, the kick panel has a couple phillips screws, and usually a pressure clip toward the firewall. Also, remove your steering shroud, three phillips screws on the bottom and it should seperate.

Pictures of the wires going from the ignition cylinder and from the turn signal switch, pictures of the clutch and brake wiring, and pictures of the driver kick panel area. Detail shots of the alarm wire splices would be helpful, too.

If it's too much of a "rat's nest," you'd be better off taking it to your local mobile electronics shop and seeing what they can do for you.

The first image is the underside of the steering column.

The second (lesser quality) image is of the underdash.

At the time I took these pictures, the car was stock. If you see wires going EVERYWHERE in your car in these areas, it's officially a "rat's nest" and hands on diagnosis is definitely required.