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Drag Race Build Vroom Vroom Awd

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Just paid for the car a few mins ago, waiting on wire transfer to go through. I'll take ownership of the car August 12 or so (waiting on a shipper). A guy I've known for 15+ years is selling this car, andddddd had to have it.

Car is fully built - SBR stage 3 motor, dogbox trans, tubular rear, e85 car.

Issues -
Trans has a small leak from the case - they had to investigate why 5th wasn't engaging and it didn't seal 100% when they put it back on
Car has a completely new/custom wiring harness - only wiring issue is the car doesn't shut off when you take key out (hoping for a faulty ignition switch here)
Fingernail sized hole in the strut tower - but that will be repaired
Two owners ago... that person cut the e-brake lines - I've already ordered new ones and will be fixing that first.
 
Be sure to fill out the mod list details in the profile. Car obviously has a ton of mods. Please do share!

View attachment 631949

Got a little more of the mod list added - will continue to update as I get more details.

Depending on spool of the current setup, may swap over to a 6466 or 6766... the price difference on those is huge tho.
 
Car arrives next week. One thing that hasn't been touched are the brakes. I'm looking to save weight on rotating mass, and drop weight in general.

Anyone have any input on who to use, likes/dislikes? Wilwood? Stop-tech? Car will be a weekend warrior, mainly drag use, and the occasional trip around town.

Was looking at the following:


I know the lightweight front drag brake kit says it shouldn't really be used for daily driving, but does anyone happen to "daily" their car around that has these brakes?
 
Car arrives next week. One thing that hasn't been touched are the brakes. I'm looking to save weight on rotating mass, and drop weight in general.

Anyone have any input on who to use, likes/dislikes? Wilwood? Stop-tech? Car will be a weekend warrior, mainly drag use, and the occasional trip around town.

Was looking at the following:


I know the lightweight front drag brake kit says it shouldn't really be used for daily driving, but does anyone happen to "daily" their car around that has these brakes?
Looking at those pads they look like the size of the rears - maybe even smaller. I imagine a short trip to the store without getting on a higher speed highway wouldn't be too bad, but I'd be curious if people have really used them heavily on the street. Seems a bit risky.
 
Looking at those pads they look like the size of the rears - maybe even smaller. I imagine a short trip to the store without getting on a higher speed highway wouldn't be too bad, but I'd be curious if people have really used them heavily on the street. Seems a bit risky.

I would think the same (suspect braking in non-drag use), and add that they would probably live a short life-span being used on the street. Not much mass there. Factory (or larger) cross-drilled brakes often start forming cracks after hard usage, I can't imaging those rotors lasting long at all other than for short, limited braking.

They make it *very* evident that they only suggest using them for drag racing. I wouldn't think it's to push potential customers away and limit their market, so I would heed their advice.
 
Ordered e-brake cables from Performance Partout.

Car was loaded up in trailer yesterday. Should have it here by the end of next week.

IMG_0943.jpg
 
Question for those with trans internal experience.

I took off the end case to fix the RTV and reseal it, it was leaking.

when I did so, a synchro and another little metal ring fell out. The synchro appears to have its place and pops back in, and lines up with these 3 tabs, the first and second pics.

my question is on the third pic, is this ring supposed to be wavy? I’m also trying to line these up with picture 4, looks like it should be placed and aligned with the housing side of the end case.

7A52313A-CEA3-432F-A28C-A1BA8C5CC39C.png


3F2AD4E3-FBB2-4CD4-9F8E-4816801644F5.png


D0FA93AD-AA89-401F-AAC8-394658241021.png


52DFC262-0027-4F78-97A0-E9157F56C3D2.png
 
Question for those with trans internal experience.

I took off the end case to fix the RTV and reseal it, it was leaking.

when I did so, a synchro and another little metal ring fell out. The synchro appears to have its place and pops back in, and lines up with these 3 tabs, the first and second pics.

my question is on the third pic, is this ring supposed to be wavy? I’m also trying to line these up with picture 4, looks like it should be placed and aligned with the housing side of the end case.

View attachment 636864

View attachment 636865

View attachment 636866

View attachment 636867
I've always been too intimidated to pull transmissions apart. @twicks69 would know.
 
I drove it, and it engages 5th fine now. But what I'm most concerned about is the 1st gear engagement, it's fawking loud, like a "clunk". I'm not sure if it's normal or not, but my first experience with a dog box. Video to follow.
 
Well I hear a twin disk with new disks in it, and I hear a dog engagement first, and you are inside a garage with a loud exhaust. Push the clutch in, give it a second to slow down, click in to 1st gear. It will have a clunk, try letting the clutch be disengaged a bit longer, then do a gentle quick shift into gear. It just takes some time to get used to driving with a dogbox.

As for that reverse wave spring you showed in the picture before, it should have two retainer tabs on it that face down towards the reverse cone, and are oriented to the gap in the casting for it to "click" into place and retain itself on the reverse cone on the 5th gear cover. If the tabs are missing it will not lock itself into place and can cause some reverse synchro rattling. I couldn't see clearly the picture of the keyways on the reverse synchro but they do look beat up, which WILL happen with a twin disk clutch assembly. Typically expect it as a regular replacement part, along with 5th synchro. Ways to make it last longer are smoother clutching and shifts into gear.
 
Coukd replacing that 5th gear synrco cause these issues? Any time I put it into a gear, it has this weird ass sound. Nuetral with the clutch in, no sound. Soon as I put in any gear. 2,3,4..
 
How does one replace the e brake cables from this point. The only guide I’ve found, pics no longer work, and not sure how I can get inside to detach the cable from this point.

the hub/32mm but will not come off, entire can of pb blaster, 1/2 inch impact wrenches, nothing.

92CB8356-A730-495D-B76B-205161581126.jpeg


8E8F474F-9E33-4DA8-AE3E-7C259264CB44.jpeg
 
How does one replace the e brake cables from this point. The only guide I’ve found, pics no longer work, and not sure how I can get inside to detach the cable from this point.

the hub/32mm but will not come off, entire can of pb blaster, 1/2 inch impact wrenches, nothing.
One end of the e-brake cable attaches to the caliper mounting plate. The other end attaches under the center console, inside the car. They are mounted to the underside of the car with some clamps similar to p clamps.

That nut is only for the axle. The hub assembly is bolted to the knuckle from the backside of the knuckle (4 bolts). You will still have to remove the axle nut in order to get the wheel hub off.
Also the caliper mounting plate is sandwiched between the knuckle and wheel hub.

You can see in the image the 4 locations where the bolts go.
awd dsm rear wheel bearing.jpg
 
Yea, may have to turn this into a winter project (the e-brake part), since I'm going to have to remove the whole suspension and take it a machine shop and hope they can remove the nut/press the hub out; appears seized but I'll try a couple more things.

Thus far I've tried whole cans of pb blaster, rubber mallet wacks, heat, impact wrench, cheater bar, etc.
 
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