I recently did the conversion to Dual Piston Calipers w/larger rotors on my 1991 Talon TSi AWD.
There are multiple reasons for doing this mod buy my main reason was:
-Stock brakes are wimpy
-I had a 2g sitting there to pull parts from
What you will need:
-Hi-Temp Grease
-Brake Clean
-Pliers
-Heavy Hammer (Optional)
-7mm wrench
-10mm wrench
-12mm socket and wrench
-17mm socket
-A buddy for bleeding
Please before you start this, do yourself a favor and read all of the instructions on this page as well as do some research other places on this mod. A lot the information I got to do this was found HERE Even more info can be found by using the search button at the top of the page.
Now, I'm going to stop and give credit to these guys for all the info they provided on the VFAQ page:
* Damian Sigman
* Kyle Zingg
* Tom Stangl
Thanks Guys!! Outstanding Page.
Now, The night before, do yourself a favor and PB Blast all of the bolts I talk about in this tech article. It will save you time and effort.
Depending on which calipers you get this process might be different. Calipers from the '93-'94 years will not require different brake lines as they are a direct bolt on. Anything later than that you will need the 2g Brake lines. The fitting that goes into the caliper is a banjo bolt for the 2g and the 1g is not.
The day before is a good time to paint the calipers and brackets if you want to.
I will assume you know how to properly support the car with jack stands and take the wheels off. So, I will skip that part.
If you have 2g brakes going on start by removing the brake line from the chassis. The one on the fender well. It requires a 10mm and a 17mm wrench. Hold the bottom with the 17mm and loosen the line on top with the 10mm. Flare wrenches really help with this situation. Once that is loose there is a clip that holds the line onto the bracket that holds the brake line to the chassis. Remove it with a pair of pliers by pulling on the clip toward you. Once that is off there is a 12mm bolt that holds the brake line to back of the strut. Remove that bolt with the 12mm wrench. Sorry, a ratchet and socket will not fit here. Now, the brake line should be free and only connected to the caliper.
If you have the '93-'94 brakes going on (Or others with the stock fitting) just remove the stock brake line from the caliper.
Now, there are four 17mm bolts. Two that hold the caliper to the caliper mounting bracket. We don't want these ones. We want the other two. The other ones hold the caliper mounting bracket to the hub. These are the ones we are after. Take your 17mm socket and take these bolts out.
Once, those bolts are out, pull on the caliper towards the front of the car. It will come off the rotor with the mounting bracket, caliper, and pads. Toss it aside, we are done with those.
Now, that the caliper is out of the way you can now take the rotor off. This is where the hammer comes into play. If you haven't done your brakes in a while or at all these are going to be tough. The best way I know of is to take that hammer and pound on them from the back side till they break free and come off.
Now that those are off. Here is a helpful tip. If your 1g has ABS make sure you get rotors from an ABS car. I didn't, and had a problem with the rotors going on because there are two bolts to hold the ABS ring on. When you put non ABS rotors on they do not have holes in them for the two bolts that hold that ring on. Therefore I cut the ABS ring off to do away with the bolts. BTW, When I was in there I did the ABS removal. That's a whole different story!! This picture shows the difference between the stock brakes and the big brakes. Also, that there are two extra holes in the old ones and there aren't in the big brake ones.
Also, now is a good time to replace any broken wheel studs you have. I had two and replaced them by pounding them out with the Big Hammer and using a lug nut with an open end on it to tighten it into the hole. BTW, ABS cars, you can only do this if you remove the ABS ring or take the hub apart.
Congratulations you are ready to install your "Big Brakes":
Start by putting on the new or used and turned rotors on the hub. Then, attach the caliper mounting bracket to the hub. Use the old 17mm bolts to bolt it into the stock location. Don't forget to order new shimming hardware for the pads.
Next, put the pads on the mounting bracket the one with the clip/pull tab or whatever you call it, goes on the backside of the rotor. Now that the pads are on, put the caliper up on there and lubricate the slide pins with some grease and bolt them down.
'93-'94 brake guys, Hook up the brake line to the caliper. Bleed the brakes and you are done.
2g brake guys, you need a little more work. Take your 2g brake line, hook it up to the caliper and to the chassis line. Now, with my car I had a stud and a nut that held the speed sensor for the ABS on the front side of the strut. I simply bolted the stock 2g brake line mount to this stud bled the brakes and I was done. Now, I don't know if the non ABS cars have this stud or not. So you may need to get creative with the mounting of the brake line. This is how mine looks:
Now, let's admire the changes we've made.
STOCK:
BIG BRAKES:
The sole purpose of this article is to get this write up on a different site that way the future generation of DSMers can benefit from the information given here. Two pictures were used from the original VFAQ.
Thank you for looking.
~Andrew~
There are multiple reasons for doing this mod buy my main reason was:
-Stock brakes are wimpy
-I had a 2g sitting there to pull parts from
What you will need:
-Hi-Temp Grease
-Brake Clean
-Pliers
-Heavy Hammer (Optional)
-7mm wrench
-10mm wrench
-12mm socket and wrench
-17mm socket
-A buddy for bleeding
Please before you start this, do yourself a favor and read all of the instructions on this page as well as do some research other places on this mod. A lot the information I got to do this was found HERE Even more info can be found by using the search button at the top of the page.
Now, I'm going to stop and give credit to these guys for all the info they provided on the VFAQ page:
* Damian Sigman
* Kyle Zingg
* Tom Stangl
Thanks Guys!! Outstanding Page.
Now, The night before, do yourself a favor and PB Blast all of the bolts I talk about in this tech article. It will save you time and effort.
Depending on which calipers you get this process might be different. Calipers from the '93-'94 years will not require different brake lines as they are a direct bolt on. Anything later than that you will need the 2g Brake lines. The fitting that goes into the caliper is a banjo bolt for the 2g and the 1g is not.
The day before is a good time to paint the calipers and brackets if you want to.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
I will assume you know how to properly support the car with jack stands and take the wheels off. So, I will skip that part.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
If you have 2g brakes going on start by removing the brake line from the chassis. The one on the fender well. It requires a 10mm and a 17mm wrench. Hold the bottom with the 17mm and loosen the line on top with the 10mm. Flare wrenches really help with this situation. Once that is loose there is a clip that holds the line onto the bracket that holds the brake line to the chassis. Remove it with a pair of pliers by pulling on the clip toward you. Once that is off there is a 12mm bolt that holds the brake line to back of the strut. Remove that bolt with the 12mm wrench. Sorry, a ratchet and socket will not fit here. Now, the brake line should be free and only connected to the caliper.
If you have the '93-'94 brakes going on (Or others with the stock fitting) just remove the stock brake line from the caliper.
Now, there are four 17mm bolts. Two that hold the caliper to the caliper mounting bracket. We don't want these ones. We want the other two. The other ones hold the caliper mounting bracket to the hub. These are the ones we are after. Take your 17mm socket and take these bolts out.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Once, those bolts are out, pull on the caliper towards the front of the car. It will come off the rotor with the mounting bracket, caliper, and pads. Toss it aside, we are done with those.
Now, that the caliper is out of the way you can now take the rotor off. This is where the hammer comes into play. If you haven't done your brakes in a while or at all these are going to be tough. The best way I know of is to take that hammer and pound on them from the back side till they break free and come off.
Now that those are off. Here is a helpful tip. If your 1g has ABS make sure you get rotors from an ABS car. I didn't, and had a problem with the rotors going on because there are two bolts to hold the ABS ring on. When you put non ABS rotors on they do not have holes in them for the two bolts that hold that ring on. Therefore I cut the ABS ring off to do away with the bolts. BTW, When I was in there I did the ABS removal. That's a whole different story!! This picture shows the difference between the stock brakes and the big brakes. Also, that there are two extra holes in the old ones and there aren't in the big brake ones.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Also, now is a good time to replace any broken wheel studs you have. I had two and replaced them by pounding them out with the Big Hammer and using a lug nut with an open end on it to tighten it into the hole. BTW, ABS cars, you can only do this if you remove the ABS ring or take the hub apart.
Congratulations you are ready to install your "Big Brakes":
Start by putting on the new or used and turned rotors on the hub. Then, attach the caliper mounting bracket to the hub. Use the old 17mm bolts to bolt it into the stock location. Don't forget to order new shimming hardware for the pads.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Next, put the pads on the mounting bracket the one with the clip/pull tab or whatever you call it, goes on the backside of the rotor. Now that the pads are on, put the caliper up on there and lubricate the slide pins with some grease and bolt them down.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
'93-'94 brake guys, Hook up the brake line to the caliper. Bleed the brakes and you are done.
2g brake guys, you need a little more work. Take your 2g brake line, hook it up to the caliper and to the chassis line. Now, with my car I had a stud and a nut that held the speed sensor for the ABS on the front side of the strut. I simply bolted the stock 2g brake line mount to this stud bled the brakes and I was done. Now, I don't know if the non ABS cars have this stud or not. So you may need to get creative with the mounting of the brake line. This is how mine looks:
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Now, let's admire the changes we've made.
STOCK:
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
BIG BRAKES:
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
The sole purpose of this article is to get this write up on a different site that way the future generation of DSMers can benefit from the information given here. Two pictures were used from the original VFAQ.
Thank you for looking.
~Andrew~
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