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'92 GSX The 'Baby Beast' - 2.3l HX40 Wire tucked Auto

TSimage

Supporting VIP
1,842
17
Jan 10, 2006
Sacramento, California
I have a question for you on the thermostat housing. Am I understanding this right, all you did was turn it 180 degrees and then smooth out what used to be the back of the housing?


Not exactly... Let me quote the part you are referring to bellow:


A little attention to detail; Relocating the sensors on the TStat housing helps hide the wires as well. As you know, from factor the sensors all face forward but depending on your setup and how much you've deleted there are duplicate places the sensors can be mounted on the BACK of the Tstat housing thus hiding the only forward positioned wires considering an O2 sensor delete.


Here is how it comes factory with both sensors up front-

DSCF1407.jpg



Now this is a little trick for all of you looking to clean things up a bit, also helps keep the wires from breaking so easily due to the sudden 180 degree turn they have to take. (stupid Mitsu engineers..)-

DSCF1408.jpg


Its that easy and looks a million times better as well-

DSCF1409.jpg



Now if you wanna get fancy you can take it another step and actually 'shave' your Tstat housing on the front so there is no evidence that that engineering mistake ever existed. Most will just put plugs or bolts in but if you are going through this much effort to tuck and shave an engine bay, don't skimp on the details.

DSCF1428.jpg


DSCF1430.jpg


Now get that bad boy welded up and you're good to go with your new Tstat housing that EVERY SINGLE DSMer will point at and ask you "Hey what car did you get that from?"

DSCF1620.jpg


DSCF1621.jpg


If I could do it again I'd polish it out even more to make it perfectly smooth or even glass it but it gets the job done LOL




Now what I did was 3move the sensors from the FRONT of the housing. there are 2 areas in the back, one is normally plugged (many use it as a secondary water temp sensor location) and the other has a fitting on it for a useless water line. After you remove that you will find that the 2 annoying sensors that you removed will both fit in the 2 ports on the BACK of the housing. So this means no more broken wires (Face it almost ALL of us have broken those wires and if you haven't you will.. If you work on the car a lot then its only a matter of time)

So with the sensors in the rear it allowed me to shave the spots in the front and seal them off. You dont have to weld it either folks. Clean it really nice with some wire wheel and a dremel, get rid of ALL of the deposits and take it to bare metal. (Keep the threads, they are important, just make sure you get it nice and clean) After that you can use JB weld stick ('metal' or 'steel' versions) or something similar. Press it in with your finger behind it add pressure. Make sure you squeeze the hell out of it so that it goes into the threads most importantly and then smooth out the front of it. Allow some to follow the curve of the floor and even add an extra piece between the 2 holes to make it one solid piece. If you cleaned it right and did exactly as I mentioned then it will hold for the life time of the piece. No leaks, no cracks, nothin.

I also removed the upper hose fitting used for my over flow tank due to the fact there is also one of those on the back as well. (Score!) so now the entire front of my T stat housing is perfectly smooth and now instead of being an ugly eye sore its a very nice piece. The most important reason was to make the wire tuck look 10X cleaner and as a plus you avoid the issues that come with having the wires up front with that short 270 degree radius on the wires.


Hopefully that helps ya out. :thumb:
 

92AWDHX40

Supporting Member
13,022
906
May 22, 2007
Kalamazoo, Michigan
Thanks for the thermostat housing too moved my coolant temp to the back and putting the s ensor that feeds to the ecu in the back so my wires arent in the front nice job again.
 

TSimage

Supporting VIP
1,842
17
Jan 10, 2006
Sacramento, California
Thanks for the props guys! I hope a few things I do can help a few other guys clean their setups up and go beyond the basic stuff that people are doing in their tucks/clean ups, stuff that even guys who aren't doing full tucks can utilize easily and help clean their bay up.

I'll be having a pretty cool one for the brakes coming up soon as well. Simple/subtle but effective.


__________


Ok so in the last update we high lighted the turbo up grade and the changes that is going to make with my previous setup. With the 3" V band I needed either a custom O2 housing or a complete O2 delete and I lucked out and found an AWESOME deal that was a crucial pick up.

I love big boxes..

DSCF1333.jpg


DSCF1762.jpg


DSCF1764.jpg


Not the purdiest thing ever but it will be wrapped eventually and in the mean type I sprayed it with the black ceramic coating just to keep it from rusting or keeping it looking somewhat presentable for the time being...

Earlier I showed you my manifold upgrade/replacement for the bolt on setup I had before by going a cost effective route but making sure it will be efficient to get the job done.

DSCF1418.jpg



I am sure plenty of you are familiar with this manifold but at the same time you're aware of the fact they will NOT fit an HX40, period. This means the manifold has to be cut, re-angled and then re-welded. Its not a bad process because it allows you to re-weld the main flange and the WG area that some have had issues with in the past. The manifold itself is quite heavy duty and for a non twin scroll setup it is definitely one of the best options around. honestly the high dollar manifolds on regular Holsets is absolutely pointless. Its a budget turbo that in this setup gains absolutely nothing from over priced higher end manifolds, that's just the way it is.

This one was coated as well and eventually will be wrapped.

DSCF1758.jpg



Hell and while we're at it, lets do the hot side before it rust up on me anyways..

DSCF1765.jpg


DSCF1766.jpg



Round 2 of glass work in the engine bay will be posted up this weekend as well.
 

Raymond1927

Proven Member
241
5
Mar 9, 2009
Wasco, California
WoW great stuff. I've done that Tstat when I did my wire tuck aswell. I was trying to find ways to make it look better when I notice the plug in the back of the Tstat. I got most of my wire tuck info fron the wire tuck you did on Raven, man did that help me out alot. I hope the converison goes well for you I'm also converting my 1g gsx to auto hopefully everything should be done by Feb. Are you goning to run the stock converter?
 

TSimage

Supporting VIP
1,842
17
Jan 10, 2006
Sacramento, California
I must have that intake.

She's purdy huh? It was the first PC'd one out of the Magnus list. I signed up for one even before their group buy and sold my blinged out Magnus Race manifold to pick it up.

0916081506.jpg



Can't wait to see what it can really do. I don't think I have seen one on a stroker motor yet (I am sure there are however) so one thing to note will be how well it is able to take advantage of the increase low end that the 2.3 presents where as the Race manifold it replaced was definitely built for top end grunt.



Looks great man.


Thanks a bunch, its a working progress but I hope to have even more pics up here soon when I can finally get back home to my computer (sorry bout the wait fellas..)



WoW great stuff. I've done that Tstat when I did my wire tuck aswell. I was trying to find ways to make it look better when I notice the plug in the back of the Tstat. I got most of my wire tuck info fron the wire tuck you did on Raven, man did that help me out alot. I hope the converison goes well for you I'm also converting my 1g gsx to auto hopefully everything should be done by Feb. Are you goning to run the stock converter?

Now that's what I like to hear. Glad that write up helped you out because before I did it there was nothing around for us 1G guys to use. In all honesty it should be reintroduced as a tech article but I'm to lazy to copy it over. ROFL.

As far as your time frame goes, that's about when I plan for this bad boy to be back on the road. The plan was to have it good to go by spring time so I'll be picking up the pace. And in response about the converter, I am on the fence. With a 2.3 I can spool the turbo just fine, especially with the spray but if you're on a 2.0 I wouldn't even consider it. As of right now the car will be running my old billet Precision TC from the Raven but I am not liking that idea and will most likely have the stock one restalled. It will give me way more than I'll need to get this bad boy off the line. Remember, I have a 100shot to jump start it as well...



which TB elbow are you going to be using

No elbow. I am running the 90mm Q45 so it is simply attached to my UICP with a 3"-3.5" coupler.
 

TSimage

Supporting VIP
1,842
17
Jan 10, 2006
Sacramento, California
Ok, so a bit more progress, though't I'd put up some info on my new fuel setup... First thing's first however, the custom modified manifold for the Holsets that I showed earlier is FS for a ridiculous price as well as my 44mm WG. I figured I'd give first dibs to those keeping up with my progress before I put it up in the classifieds and other forums.


__________

Ok so a few upgrades to my old fuel system.

The original setup was:

-In tank dual 255 wallys
-SS braided -8an feed/ -6an return
-1150cc FIC injectors
-Fuel lab FPR
-Fuel lab standard filter


New setup:

-In tank dual 340 Stealth Aeros
-SS braided -8an feed/ -6an return
-1850cc FIC injectors
-FIC EasyTune box
-Fuel lab FPR
-Fuel lab E85 filter


This setup will give me WAY more than I need but will put me in a place that even if I wanted to upgrade to an HX52 next (which is the plan if I don't sell it) then I will be fine.


Old dual wally setup-

DSCF1455.jpg



My brand new Aero fresh out of its package-

DSCF1456.jpg



Size comparison...

DSCF1459.jpg



The aero is slightly more narrow but a little longer as well-

DSCF1462.jpg



I wanted to see if I could get the sleeves to fit...

DSCF1466.jpg



No dice. So I removed them and naturally they fit like a glove. There is no point using the sound insulators since the "Stealth" pumps, unlike the wallys are virtually silent.

DSCF1468.jpg



And just for reference, here's what the EasyTune box looks like:

DSCF1967.jpg



What that bad boy does is allow my 1850s to be tuned in a way that the car will idle and accelerate even better than it did stock. :thumb:
 

noavgjoe

Proven Member
133
2
Feb 22, 2010
GARY, Indiana
Man, I just read the whole thread and my eyebrows are still raised... I am amazed at how meticulous and thorough you are. Great build! When I saw that harness laid out I think I had an anxiety attack! LoL
 

TSimage

Supporting VIP
1,842
17
Jan 10, 2006
Sacramento, California
Man, I just read the whole thread and my eyebrows are still raised... I am amazed at how meticulous and thorough you are. Great build! When I saw that harness laid out I think I had an anxiety attack! LoL

Lol, It's just getting started. :p

You think this is bad you should see the black car. That thing made me think I was simply crazy. I'm currently waiting for a shipment I made for my hardware since I am replacing most of my hardware with grade 12.9 allen head bolts (black)

Should be fun... :rolleyes: ROFL




You sir are an inspiration to a good many of us. keep up the great work.


Thanks a bunch, that means a lot. I love building these things because it just shows that you can do these project right at home with your hands and some determination. Best part is it gets worse! yay! :D:sosad:


__________

Got a chance to grab a few subtle items for the interior, nothing too fancy or special I supposed but I figured I'd get some mroe work done o that so I can put it all back together since it looked like this-

DSCF1403.jpg



And just in case you wondered why our dash itself is so heavy.. there's still a lot more ducting ad bracketry to remove from that bad boy.

DSCF1726.jpg



Another 6lbs or so gone, every little bit helps when the driver is 6'3" 270 LOL


And We all love packages-

DSCF1743.jpg


DSCF1745.jpg



New Sparco wheel with the integrated accessory buttons that I can use for switching gears in the transmission. Needs a little work but I got it for a good price considering the authentic titanium ones like this are valued at over $400, yikes!

DSCF1747.jpg



Decide to grab a mounting kit with slim quick disconnect as well-

DSCF1748.jpg


DSCF1749.jpg



Also grabbed a couple racing seats in a trade for some parts so I figured "Sure why not?" They aren't nearly as light as my Poly seats from the Raven that everyone is using now but they are still a lot lighter than stock and let me use my harnesses...

DSCF1974.jpg



This is all the pics on my phone so hopefully I can get some of the others off of my computer when I get a chance next time..
 

97gst_spyder

Proven Member
2,264
15
Sep 1, 2008
Lakeland, Florida
Be careful and not blow the welds on the intake manifold! Do you happen to have two of the big bottles?

Haha!

Great build!
 

TSimage

Supporting VIP
1,842
17
Jan 10, 2006
Sacramento, California

TSimage

Supporting VIP
1,842
17
Jan 10, 2006
Sacramento, California
Thanks for the compliment guys!

And chasing tail is hardly a reason to be incompetent.

I'm a self taugh football player with an engineering degree LOL. No one got more ass than me and thats high quality tail at SanDiego State Uni.. LOL Class A top Tier. ROFL I think if I was in I Gary, IN, I'd want to stay inside. LOL

:p

I'm just messin' with ya! But either way, its never too late to start. Just takes a little confidences to risk leaving everything Fubard'd and the patience to do your research to get it right haha.
 
Last edited:

noavgjoe

Proven Member
133
2
Feb 22, 2010
GARY, Indiana
AAAAAAAAHAHAHAHAHA! Incompetent? Dam, I feel like you just tackled me. Hilarious... Like you said, its never too late. I've learned more about cars in my first year of owning my dsm than I had my whole life. It's been rough at times but this site, people like you and others like myself kept me going. Oh. yeah... there ain't much out here. Its kinda sad. Moms owned rental property out here before she passed and gave it to me. It beats the fcuk out of paying 1300 for a condo in the city. The Midwest period has worn on me. I'm planning my move as we speak. :)
 

TSimage

Supporting VIP
1,842
17
Jan 10, 2006
Sacramento, California
AAAAAAAAHAHAHAHAHA! Incompetent? Dam, I feel like you just tackled me. Hilarious... Like you said, its never too late. I've learned more about cars in my first year of owning my dsm than I had my whole life. It's been rough at times but this site, people like you and others like myself kept me going. Oh. yeah... there ain't much out here. Its kinda sad. Moms owned rental property out here before she passed and gave it to me. It beats the fcuk out of paying 1300 for a condo in the city. The Midwest period has worn on me. I'm planning my move as we speak. :)



Lol, it was a friendly jab brotha, don't take it as an insult. We were all there at one point and I can assure you owning a DSM will FORCE you to be a mechanic. I knew a bit about cars and wrenching but my first DSM really wore me out and kind of took it all a different route to not be scared of the car and learn every single aspect of modding it. You use all the money you'd spend on labor and buy better parts.

Win-win situation. :hellyeah:


Other than that your situation sounds awesome how it is. Paying a mortgage sucks and I remember paying rent too and it was just as bad. Stack up your chips while you can and the best advice is to avoid dumping it all into the DSM:thumb:

It'll be hard to not want to though. ROFL
 

bring_1

Proven Member
40
0
Jan 20, 2010
Madison, Wisconsin
ahh, i was wondering that as well two, but after looking at the first couple pictures, note the brass fitting in the background, it remains pointed to the right, but the sensors were opposite.
 

_801_

Proven Member
38
1
Sep 16, 2008
West Valley, Utah
Build look awesome, I will say it again that Intake mani is puuurdy.

Keep up the awesome work
 
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