92 Galant

[KCDsmDude]

-Got the driveshaft installed, but now I'm leaking out of the output seal, you can see a little droplet in the photo. I ordered two input seals, two output seals, and a couple other seals from Extremepsi. Oddly enough, swapping out this driveshaft was the most straight forward thing I've ever done on any of the DSM's I've had, everything lined up perfectly and bolted right in. Put in all new hardware as well, really dislike the idea of using 30+ year old nuts and bolts.
- Ordered a $10 gauge pod off Amazon, had to drill out the back of it to fit all the wires for the ECB-1 kit. Going to mount this on the steering column with some tape and see if it holds, I'd rather NOT drill into it with some little self tapping screws, but will if I have to.
- FIC just finished with the injectors and billed me for it, should receive those back soon and will put back on the intake manifold/fuel rail/fuel lines, etc.

 

[GST with PSI]

-Got the driveshaft installed, but now I'm leaking out of the output seal, you can see a little droplet in the photo. I ordered two input seals, two output seals, and a couple other seals from Extremepsi. Oddly enough, swapping out this driveshaft was the most straight forward thing I've ever done on any of the DSM's I've had, everything lined up perfectly and bolted right in. Put in all new hardware as well, really dislike the idea of using 30+ year old nuts and bolts.

That's interesting...Looks like DSS changed their design.

The slip yoke on the T-case side used to be a single machined piece. Now it looks like they use that adapter thing. Not sure how I feel about that.

Is the front adapter machined on the U-joint side to be properly centered/located on the U-joint, or are the mounting surfaces flat when the adapter and U-joint are mated together?

 

[KCDsmDude]

That's interesting...Looks like DSS changed their design.

The slip yoke on the T-case side used to be a single machined piece. Now it looks like they use that adapter thing. Not sure how I feel about that.

Is the front adapter machined on the U-joint side to be properly centered/located on the U-joint, or are the mounting surfaces flat when the adapter and U-joint are mated together?

The Driveshaft Shop | Mitsubishi Eclipse (1G / 2G ) and Evo (I-VI) 4340 Billet Trans Yoke/Flange (with a 2-2-329 U-Joint Flange) - Mitsubishi - Import Driveshafts

Mitsubishi Eclipse (1G / 2G ) and Evo (I-VI) 4340 Billet Trans Yoke/Flange (with a 2-2-329 U-Joint Flange) New DSS 4340 billet bolt on style transmission yoke for the DSM 21 spline transfer case.

www.driveshaftshop.com

I bought the driveshaft directly off another persons drag Galant and was glad they had the upgraded yoke flange with it.

 

[GST with PSI]

Ah, I see. What's the measured diameter of the driveshaft you have?

 

[KCDsmDude]

Ah, I see. What's the measured diameter of the driveshaft you have?

3.5"

 

[We're on Boost]

Thanks for the work bench shots. I've been moving my work benches around with me for 40 years. The best one I ever built is the first one I ever built.

 

[KCDsmDude]

General question, can't seem to find the answer quickly.

Can I bleed the breaks with the intake manifold off, only reason I ask is the vacuum source from intake manifold to brake booster is open and not sure if that would impact the ability to properly pressurize the lines.

 

[KCDsmDude]

Leaking coolant out of the t-stat housing where it bolts to the head, around the bottom bolt. I've tried a new gasket and a new gasket + some gasket sealer, still leaks.....

And, you can bleed brakes with the intake mani off.

 

[KCDsmDude]

Threw some gasket sealer (again) on it, and replaced the upper neck gasket as well with brand new.

If all else fails, will order new gaskets.

 

[KCDsmDude]

Had a very busy weekend with the car..

-Noticed I had two brake fluid leaks. First was after I already put the intake mani on; when I changed over to 3 an line for the fronts, I was still utilizing the stock rears. I forgot to screw those into the prop valve. So I had to take the intake mani off again, while this was off I bled the brakes and had some slight leakage out of the drivers front. Must have had a piece of rust or something preventing me from getting a good seal the first time, I tightened it back down the second time and boom. Works.

- Noticed the oil drain was hitting the front motor mount and causing a relatively sharp bend/kink in it. This would have prevented oil from draining properly so I took off the manifold again and changed over the oil drain setup, it clears the motor mount now. The fitting I have from @MorrisonFab actually angles the drain AWAY from the motor mount and this provided all the clearance I needed for a smooth flow to the line. While this was off I Heli-coiled another stud so now all 9 bolts/studs are tight.

-Installed the ECB-1 gauge and wired it in. I won't be using the exhaust gas temp function so that wire will be taped off; additionally I won't be wiring this to a dimmer so I've left that loose too. 14 gauge to 7.5 amp fuse to 14 gauge > soldered to 16 gauge wire run through firewall > soldered to 14 gauge relay - I don't like the 16 > 14 > 16 BUT, the only thing on this circuit is this gauge and even a 16 gauge wire will be able to handle this simple gauge. Ground from battery through firewall that is then soldered in with the ground from the relay and ground from gauge. The wideband wire from gauge soldered directly to front 02 pin wire on ECU. 12v power source came from the blue wire leading to cig lighter.

-Got the intake manifold, fuel rail, and cleaned/flow tested 2150's back in
-Put the catch can and 6an lines back in
- Put in all new 3, 4, and 6 mm vacuum lines and zip tied them all
-Reinstalled IC piping with two new couplers

What's left to do -
-Replace output seal in transfer case and reinstall - fill with fluid and check for leaks - had a small leak when I installed the DSS driveshaft
-Figure out coolant leak if my fix last night doesn't work and fill with coolant 50/50 coolant/distilled water split
-Change oil filter, attach oil feed, tighten oil pan bolt, fill with oil
-Reinstall throttle body and new hardware that arrives today
- I will need to have the wastegate dumps reworked - they are too close to the oil drain when attached and I'm not about to risk burning through my oil drain. Plus fitment is very, very snug
- Adjust TPS and throttle cable
- Boost leak test
- Kick on fuel pump with Link and ensure no fuel leaks -
- Flip key to ACC and see if ecb-1 kicks on

Once that's done and complete - will trailer to get exhaust and dumptubes built, ensure I have a proper working boost controller, then Kevin Jewer tune

 

[MorrisonFab]

Loving the build!

Happy to hear the drain line kit keeps it away from the pesky GVR4 engine mount bracket
With both dumptubes and the drain line all sharing the same space down there it does end up fairly tight (and we mock it all up with the drain line accounted for), but is there a chance that the drain line can be trimmed shorter and allow the CHRA to be rotated back towards the engine more, also moving the drain line further away from the dumptube? Shorter usually ends up much better than longer we've found for the drain line kits, and we can always send another line if it ends up too short. Either way a heat shield around the oil drain is a good idea.

 

[KCDsmDude]

Loving the build!

Happy to hear the drain line kit keeps it away from the pesky GVR4 engine mount bracket
With both dumptubes and the drain line all sharing the same space down there it does end up fairly tight (and we mock it all up with the drain line accounted for), but is there a chance that the drain line can be trimmed shorter and allow the CHRA to be rotated back towards the engine more, also moving the drain line further away from the dumptube? Shorter usually ends up much better than longer we've found for the drain line kits, and we can always send another line if it ends up too short. Either way a heat shield around the oil drain is a good idea.

What I forgot to do while the turbo was off this time was rotate the CHRA back even more, maybe a couple degrees pointed forward at the moment, which is likely causing the crowded issues I'm having with dump tubes being too close for comfort.

But, I don't want to take it off again . Might just bite the bullet and take it off and rotate it ever so slightly and see if that frees up the space i want... hmmmm.

 

[KCDsmDude]

Well, hooked the battery up and just flipped the key to ACC - we has power. Gauge looks awesome here IMO and will be easy to monitor AFR/Boost during a pull.

Also elected to upgrade the fan to a 16" slim fan - pusher.

Inspected my lower thermostat housing last night - found a crack in it around the bottom bolt, which is likely causing my leak. So I ordered a refurbished one from ebay https://www.ebay.com/itm/264935309060 - I've ordered stuff from this person before and it was great. Not sure who this is but very attentive seller.

Also stripped a bolt on my fuel rail - sooooo, ordered Magnus 1000 hp fuel rail, 10 an to 6 an fittings, and six thermostat housing gaskets from ExtremePsi.

 

[KCDsmDude]

Went to boost leak test the car and ran into some issues. Before I took the car down, it was holding fine to 25 psi or so. Now, it's a little different.

Edited my post and removed the shit. I changed to standard vacuum line that doesn't have a check valve in it... joyous.

 

[KCDsmDude]

Well, sweet mother of jesus.

I'm assuming I need this... https://jnztuning.com/product/oem-brake-booster-hose/

 

[Vegas Smith]

Well, sweet mother of jesus.

I'm assuming I need this... https://jnztuning.com/product/oem-brake-booster-hose/

Either that or you need a 3/8 check valve in a 3/8 line to the brake booster. I went the cheaper route and bought a check valve.

 

[KCDsmDude]

Also seeing some folks say they messed up their brake booster by doing a BLT without a check valve, doh. Let's hope the 6-14 psi didn't hurt it.

Hope that isn't the case on my end, still had brake pedal pressure and everything.

 

[KCDsmDude]

cannot get this thing to start.



New starter. Signal wire is still hooked up.
new wires and plugs
coil pack tested within range
Clicking your hear is relay near ECU
Tried 2 ptu
Ecmlink showing 12.5v battery. Battery gauge reader showing 13.4v
MAP sensor in ecmlink showing -1.2inHg
Have fuel pressure
Car randomly locks itself

So what should I test now.

 

[KCDsmDude]

Can hear the starter activate

do I need to remove any part of the dash to get to starter relay?
Could starter be the wrong one?

 

[KCDsmDude]

Signal wire to starter solenoid is doing some funky things when it comes to volts

 

[Vegas Smith]

Hmm, it seems like a mechanical/electrical issue in the starter system. The click you hear is the relay so that should be working. I would try new batteries on the multimeter because they give crazy readings when low on battery. You can bypass the space connector by arching the positive stud on the starter to the solenoid spade with a screwdriver. What brand starter? Some of these cheap starters are bad right out of the box.

 

[KCDsmDude]

Just a Napa rebuilt starter.

Think it’s junk because I threw in the old one and got it to fire up.

Power wire in starter harness was fraying so I replaced it with an extra.

won’t idle now, but hey, it starts

 

[KCDsmDude]

This video is with the Napa starter... doesn’t sound like it’s engaging.

Is there some place to get our starters rebuilt that will send it back as is? Don’t want to order the wrong one again.

 

[Vegas Smith]

I'll never buy a cheap starter again. I bought a new Bosch unit and it fired the car up so easily. I don't know about anyone rebuilding them. I'm sure they're out there.

 

[KCDsmDude]

Ya, I'll be buying a Bosch then and will try that. Next up is to try and get it to hold idle. Reading over Kevin Jewer's site and trying to apply that to my situation.

No ISC
No FIAV
TPS volts off .63v, at WOT 5v
BISS screw set all the way in and backed out two whole turns
Link is simulating idle switch - but had the throttle body rebuilt and I should probably adjust it

My guess is I likely need to run the TPS Adjust Tool in Link and go from there.

Car previously needed to be held at partial throttle for 20-30 seconds before it would idle.