92 Eclipse GST, heavy boost street build

[Blaine0002]

I just picked this up!!

-4g63 2.3L stroker Stage 3 racing Short Block
-crower rods
-ross 8.8.1 Pistons .020 over
-Fully Balanced rotating assembly
-cometic 3lyr HG
-arp bolts on everything
- Buschur Racing Stage 3 Cylinder Head
- Custom BR dual stainless steel valve springs
- BR titanium retainers
- New Valve Seals
- BR stainless .5mm over intake valves
- BR stainless .5mm over exhaust valves
- Stainless Oring around each combustion chamber
- Complete port & polish job
- Stainless Steel O-Ring
- New Bronze Valve Guides
- hks camshafts
- BC Ti Spings/Retainers
- eliminator shaft
-FP race turbo manifold
-FP HTA GT3586R Ball Bearing Turbocharger
-TIal mvs WASTEGATE
-fp 4" DOWNPIPE/WG CONNECTION-full 3.5"exhaust
-AMS stealth intercooler/race piping.
-Tial bov
-Magnus full race intake manifold
-presicion 1400cc injectors
-dual walbro pumps
-Coil on coil ignition system.
-ss braided lines
-SHEP STAGE 2 TRANS lsd
-hks twin plate clutch
-fid flywheel
-arp bolts
-ss braided lines
-AEM DSM EMS standalone ecu
-aem boost solenoid



This will probably be less of a build thread (its already built right?) and more of a 'heres what I fixed today' thread.

As of right now the top priority is getting the clutch to disengage properly. All this information is very new to me, and being a BMW guy, i never considered a pedal assembly going bad.. Good ol DSM.
Anyway, im going to rebleed the clutch system, and seperately bleed the slave like the guide says (i didnt do that first time around) I also bled it with the master all the way out (almost) of the pedal assembly. I was told to back it out of the master (into the assembly) and rebleed, then adjust as needed.
currently, i cant start the car in neutral as it wont go in gear. I can start it in gear, and hope to chunk it into place when going from a stoplight


Like I said, im a BMW guy, so ill probably have lots of questions for you guys!

 

[DanielMandon]

Nice pickup - looks very clean.

What'd it run you?

 

[Blaine0002]

Im not going to say
I got it from a close friend when he moved to hong kong

 

[Pipnorcali]

Looks clean

 

[Blaine0002]

Thanks! it is really clean except for the front bumper..

Anyone know how to fix hatch rattle?? its soooooooo miserable....

 

[Blaine0002]

Yesterday I purchaced a new power steering pump, a shep built clutch pedal assembly, and an extended slave rod.

As soon as I get this thing moving, ill make some videos for you guys!

 

[Blaine0002]

So the extended slave rod and the pedal assembly didnt do it for me...

I guess the trans has to come off now!!!

 

[Blaine0002]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zJL3eXqcP-w

Can someone PLEASE tell me if this is normal slave travel???

for some reason i cant post in other forums ( kind of a forum is this? -.-)

 

[ChrisMgst]

I would buy an OEM slave cylinder. Slave Cylinder for the Clutch


I don't think you wanted to use an extended slave rod. read this:Slave Cylinder for the Clutch

 

[Blaine0002]

I did replace the regular slave rod with an extended rod (just to see if the clutch was disengage)
I plan on replacing it with the regular one once I get the problem fixed..

Is my slave not OEM?


I find it funny that you didnt even answer my question though... Am i getting enough travel out of that slave?

 

[ChrisMgst]

I apologize I didn't answer your question LOOKS GOOD.
Buy a new oem and let me us know if that resolves the issue.

 

[Blaine0002]

So if the throw distance looks good, what would replacing the slave cylinder do? I think its a seized clutch to be honest..

 

[goodhart]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zJL3eXqcP-w

Can someone PLEASE tell me if this is normal slave travel???

Looks good to me. What makes you think the clutch is seized? Is it not disengaging at all?

Does it take a lot of effort to shift the car when driving? If so, you may have mis-adjusted shift cables. If not, then you may have to pull the trans to see what's really going on. Luckily, FWD's are LOADS easier to pull the trans IMO. Not to mention about 30-40 lbs lighter than an AWD trans, so most people can lift the bell housing off the block and set the trans on the floor themselves.

 

[Blaine0002]

Looks good to me. What makes you think the clutch is seized? Is it not disengaging at all?

Does it take a lot of effort to shift the car when driving? If so, you may have mis-adjusted shift cables. If not, then you may have to pull the trans to see what's really going on. Luckily, FWD's are LOADS easier to pull the trans IMO. Not to mention about 30-40 lbs lighter than an AWD trans, so most people can lift the bell housing off the block and set the trans on the floor themselves.

Good to know.

The issue has been slowly developing, the car was drivable, sat all winter (doesnt cold start nicely) then when I bought it i could tell the clutch wouldnt disengage as easy. I can have my foot through the floor practically, and it wont go into gear, i need to start it in gear, and its immediately rolling..

As for why I think its seized, Well, I replaced the pedal assembly, and the slave has good throw.. What else could it be?

 

[SoDakGSX]

Sounds like the clutch might be dragging. There's an adjustment rod under the dash, you could try giving the clutch more throw and see if that helps.

There's a ton of info floating around about how to adjust it. Hope that helps man.

 

[Blaine0002]

Sounds like the clutch might be dragging. There's an adjustment rod under the dash, you could try giving the clutch more throw and see if that helps.

There's a ton of info floating around about how to adjust it. Hope that helps man.

Ive done my research. Ive adjusted the rod out to the max, and even replaced the clutch assembly.......