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'92 Eagle Talon TSi AWD

DROPthatCLUTCH

Proven Member
483
2
Feb 21, 2011
Calgary, AB_Canada
I'm fairly certain you can't just pull out main bolts and put some ARP studs in and call it a day. All of the engine builders I know say that you need to get the block machined with studs while they line bore it... I could be wrong but worth looking into?

You are correct sir. Didn't read my last post? The block is at the shop right now! Thanks for lookin out!
 

DROPthatCLUTCH

Proven Member
483
2
Feb 21, 2011
Calgary, AB_Canada
Picked up my block in the way home from work today! Got all clearances in ballpark of .025" and they polished my crank for free. Sweet.
3A1E7235-DA21-4436-A28B-531272610F96-16432-0000120A120C06EB_zpsc5e10065.jpg

ED848987-D70F-4332-90B5-1EE663F0A022-16432-0000120A0BC64A00_zpsf3a5bedc.jpg


Time to torque her together. Stay tuned...
 

DROPthatCLUTCH

Proven Member
483
2
Feb 21, 2011
Calgary, AB_Canada
Finally got the door and subframe!
52017FD0-62B3-4127-8091-A3A677FDE138-3769-000003CF162C681F_zps40d57351.jpg

Old door:
FEBDA507-64DE-43EB-A88A-AF4800EAF3EE-3769-000003CF1CC722E5_zpse8e5afae.jpg

05A75CE7-4E2B-4FC6-8509-FA3FF5ED9E14-3769-000003CF0E9FF59C_zpse8fd189e.jpg

I just need to hit that frame with the wire wheel and give it a coat of paint. But it's better than my current bent one.

Cleaned up the valves a little bit:
28147D0E-1BD5-467A-84C5-0CE991D17189-3769-000003CF08BC178E_zpsed88b668.jpg


And lapped them:
0F2BACD1-04C1-4D1B-9572-AC9CBFE75535-3769-000003CEF666CFFE_zps0e53d602.jpg

8368CB46-1AA7-46D5-928D-2D4F05E8265E-3769-000003CEEBD21DC5_zps610b2470.jpg

7925F625-1240-41D3-811B-1AC82EE8BB62-3769-000003CED743F3D7_zps5da99ab0.jpg

0FAB39F2-E5AF-4625-866F-D2ADD79EC087-3769-000003CEE421589F_zps4476b112.jpg


I did the oil port mod again:
6D2D5695-6297-4E85-8920-900B0EA92494-3769-000003CEFC903F3F_zps581dce79.jpg


Then put the new valve seals in along with the manley springs and titanium retainers:
93932C99-667E-4528-8CF9-5C3A5983F8A8-3769-000003CF33667F26_zpsafceead8.jpg

D1035011-0B7A-42F0-AD16-191A622B971E-3769-000003CF48B40E7E_zps8f078507.jpg

A4B4AF56-F6EA-4845-93F0-C4877C26FD1A-3769-000003CF4029A3FC_zps8eb994db.jpg
 

DROPthatCLUTCH

Proven Member
483
2
Feb 21, 2011
Calgary, AB_Canada
Okay so I got the crank torqued down with the girdle and the arp's, aswell as the pistons in and torqued. Heres some pics of the progress!

First I cleaned the shit out of all the bearing and the bore/cap surfaces:
D9C363EE-C65D-4EBA-937E-03BAB05CD278-2347-000002543A42ACA0_zps6ac69f8e.jpg


Then I put all the bearings in:
5F229DBD-A531-434F-AF0B-A57B6186D24C-2347-0000025442203089_zpsd78e4c15.jpg

DA588065-5AB6-4DA0-9401-11B7D6F1CDD1-2347-0000025447F10536_zps02e141e3.jpg


Greased'er up and dropped it in!
EB325F34-5B0A-4F6D-BD3B-3E6290289D63-2347-000002545BE28114_zpsbd315ba7.jpg


Twisted the arp main studs in (with moly lube of course:thumb:):
A714EA74-095A-4BC3-9EA5-F3A570A868B0-2347-0000025461415A02_zps793945e7.jpg


Main caps on:
AA37FB65-680E-420F-B483-33CEF41E014A-2347-00000254668F8757_zps2a64e479.jpg


Girdles in, along with the washers and nuts(more moly lube):
85491838-C94F-4F72-864F-F21FE7C2CD71-2347-000002546C362146_zpsa3d7c187.jpg


Torquey, torquey! Clicked it to 60 ft/lbs:
A3477C01-C878-4B2C-A108-4C30011412C6-2347-000002547204882E_zps4166545d.jpg


It's beautiful, isn't it?
76ACA676-3402-4033-8AF2-A00E2CF4F67A-2347-00000254773C7144_zpsd82dbc75.jpg


Bagged it up for the night:
997130F5-9A74-4BCD-A9FC-5BCCB71E35EE-2347-000002547F6593E9_zps003f730a.jpg


Up bright and early! Cleaned the rod bores/bearings, which reminds me, I need to go buy some more brake clean...
6D78DE82-FF04-4723-9A5C-92D4152076D1-2996-00000370B143DEB5_zpsc7a7df3b.jpg


Pistons in!
B0FCA30F-5F33-4547-84E4-ED18902CD99E-2996-00000370B809A233_zpsc32e42fc.jpg


43 ft/lbs for the ARP 2000 rod bolts:
3270F13B-CF46-443A-81F7-42F70E8556BF-2996-00000370BEA99272_zps60a4ae3b.jpg


Progress:
4F3DBF3E-9000-46AD-B93B-D3F82168541D-2996-00000370C7DF74E7_zps9d979550.jpg


That's all for today.:thumb:
 

DROPthatCLUTCH

Proven Member
483
2
Feb 21, 2011
Calgary, AB_Canada
Haven't updated for a while so here's what I've been up too lately.

Moved the car around for more room:
1418C513-6424-40BB-88EE-76204F88E65C-199-0000000DEA696B3F_zpsb7751111.jpg


Dropped the transfer case, driveshaft, exhaust, and pulled axles:
4CD15CB8-6657-47C1-8D34-9AAC1FBD0955-199-0000000E1D66959A_zps6cf46b52.jpg

F98CEE31-34D4-4457-AAA1-3CDBDB9B0894-199-0000000DF7FDEFA2_zpscea9c90a.jpg

6A3DFE7E-B880-40A9-BD70-0D0C531D62B5-199-0000000E01F614A3_zps9fdfe73f.jpg


Drivers side axle center boot was in two pieces so the axle came apart on removal.

Hooked up the lift to the old engine:
016DFD25-FEAE-46CB-9DD6-012281F9315C-199-0000000E4585DFEF_zps1b0b3900.jpg


Pulled her out:
5230E029-B1D9-4FDD-9F12-757F1859F6A0-199-0000000E536995E3_zpsb8e4d4ab.jpg


Steipped the old block of all the parts I need and wrapped them with their corresponding nuts/bolts:
24B316CA-9E37-48DC-8AC7-DCD3E871AB76-199-0000000E86C75C56_zps9cc36843.jpg


Out with the old:
A869C54A-58A1-4248-9393-B6EBA254EAF8-199-0000000E8DB560BA_zps773a9f10.jpg


Double checked specs on new oil pump:
C3FD50CB-0366-4486-B187-247D30058A92-199-0000000EC47D1A4F_zps94c0f437.jpg


Set up the belt side on the new block:
10391835-AB03-459E-988C-F313A5F1C97D-2360-0000034E89478981_zps8b326b83.jpg


Bled the lifters, and torqued my cam gears onto my cams:

02A7F273-1AFA-4A6A-AE7F-F2E8C84AF826-2360-0000034E8F90C31B_zps9f5f94f6.jpg

07CE275E-19FB-4535-BC36-B8226530FBEE-2360-0000034EBC1F40CA_zpsbad7a043.jpg


Head is ready:
78D74F97-9266-49E6-B4C4-8FE62AAF1A20-2360-0000034EC20FD875_zpsa4d22b61.jpg


Rear main installed:
E7548FFE-9F2A-4013-B0CA-B48C174B3C54-2360-0000034ECB783031_zps23fd4b5c.jpg


Torqued the head onto the cometic mls:
E287CC6F-46FA-4492-84E7-B91B8D467FA2-2360-0000034ED3B9D670_zpsdc3d28a5.jpg

32226CB0-ED86-47DC-BA34-25A8B26DBB2A-2360-0000034EDB18E5AA_zps73b66058.jpg


Cleand and painted all the parts i'm reusing:
4FF28F1C-88D4-4F8C-900B-618CC93E56FE-2360-0000034EAF009EDF_zpsa367cf5a.jpg


Also got some more new parts in:
3175E970-8F0E-4B13-9E32-16F6D966F805-900-0000004CD491A52F_zps9c18e45b.jpg

06D7170B-20EA-44C7-9889-3C791759EFBD-8035-00000AC7BC424292_zpsa00e1bc9.jpg


I'm taking the head back off and changing the head gasket because I decided to go with a Felpro permatorque MLS as suggested by the guys at Force. That order is scheduled to be here on Wednesday. If all goes well, this engine should be getting dropped in next weekend! Also, my dsmlink speed density package is on the way.
 

DROPthatCLUTCH

Proven Member
483
2
Feb 21, 2011
Calgary, AB_Canada
Some more parts I got:
704A3513-CE21-42E8-A23C-E35731EE7B5B-11404-00000ECFE71A2198_zpsdce216d2.jpg



Permatex copper spray, Felpro MLS permatorque, some 3mm, 6mm, 8mm silicon vac line, Jay racing Saturn alternator relocate, RTM urethane sub frame bushings, oil pressure sender relocate, Throttle body gaskets, Stubby exhaust mani bolts, plug for the head, meth nozzle bung.
 

DROPthatCLUTCH

Proven Member
483
2
Feb 21, 2011
Calgary, AB_Canada
My DSMLink package showed up yesterday!:rocks:
It consists of:
V3 Full Software
Cables
GM 4 Bar MAP
GM IAT
1g Socketed ECU

11457450-F47F-48BD-BFFA-76DB47C0CAB0-12267-00000FCA780B436C_zpse7f6df6e.jpg

E89A2813-6887-4B70-A7AB-E45E51FFA23C-12267-00000FCA7D7D00AC_zps8326d333.jpg


I then took the head back off, removed the Cometic MLS I had on and replaced it with the Felpro permatorque MLS
6357034E-1BF2-41E3-8268-412120932E43-12267-00000FCA65641A9D_zps9bf36493.jpg


I used copper spray just because it gives me some extra peace of mind
F3BB107E-42D2-4522-9C2A-923DE1A06039-12267-00000FCA6BB713EA_zps453a0438.jpg


Took the rubber off my wheels that I bought before christmas and gave my buddy a $50 to sandblast them, and my valve cover
DF5E8499-0527-455E-9025-DB121A1E8724-13037-00001035A4D7E4DF_zps849f9fe4.jpg

4C0821A1-7437-4543-90B5-E581EC6F7A7B-13037-00001035ADE20148_zpsccdaa1a5.jpg


I bought some paint today too. Gonna paint the rims gloss graphite, with the wedsport blue inner lip left on, some red caliper paint to touch up the calipers with, and I got some cast iron colored VHT ceramic coating manifold paint! Still need to decide on my valve cover, I would love to polish it up but that seems like a shit ton of work. We'll see.
 

DROPthatCLUTCH

Proven Member
483
2
Feb 21, 2011
Calgary, AB_Canada
What I've been up to lately:

I sanded down one of the rims, took a long ass time before I felt it was ready for paint. Still have three more to goROFL

D8E4CA6B-3FFF-47A3-AF04-8266118CA5A1-1668-00000217E8421115_zps0b75c70f.jpg


Then my arm wwas tired so I decided I would go ahead and port the oil filter housing:
9D733104-E616-43D7-BBFD-C574F67BC901-14398-000011DC8EA6ADE4_zps14d691c9.jpg


Coated the FP mani with some ceramic paint:
CE87AEDF-628C-44BE-B570-887B5C678DF6-1668-00000217F1CAF151_zps5443a3c9.jpg


Then i received my order which consisted of: Jay racing timing belt tool, Straight cut drive/driven oil pump gears, and a CAS o-ring.
92931E4B-42FC-4707-A2A2-D60D4FDD5F2A-1668-000002180491EB85_zps5b69630e.jpg

B669F213-B32E-4CA1-9C9D-9687BBA3C673-1668-000002181219D4B4_zps3d3c869e.jpg


...Yep, I did some more research and decided I'd go with the straihght cut pump gears rather than the helicals I had previously installed due to the increase in side load on the helical type gear.:applause:

De-burred them on the wire wheel:
59A38632-231A-4676-AB08-52E9DE6E9008-1668-00000218288DA3E6_zps7ee0d6c2.jpg


I'm placing an order for one of these types of restrictors for my turbo oil feed:
RTM-CustRestrFit02big.jpg


And this is how I'm setting it up:
4DB66640-1004-4D6C-AE88-F11508275BC7-1668-0000021834411C83_zps723222fb.jpg


Closest to the bottom of the picture is the restrictor coming from the OFH then I have the attchment for an oil pressure gauge to monitor the pressure I'm getting POST restrictor, then a -4AN up to the turbo.

I have more to update but not enough time right now. Check back soon!
 

DROPthatCLUTCH

Proven Member
483
2
Feb 21, 2011
Calgary, AB_Canada
Okay got some time to update more.

Picked this up on sale for 70% off:
92BC57E6-4216-4C88-A49E-962EA7C78454-1668-00000218440F491F_zps16d9a0eb.jpg


Got home and began taking the front cover back off again to change the pump gears. The permatex tack gasket really works good. Good thing I got another gasket.
05E82981-1518-4C27-9A58-CDDD1216BFC3-1668-000002185087D969_zpsf3dd1b68.jpg

7E01D306-0E3F-4523-8EA3-1E7032697BEA-1668-0000021856B25801_zps7ce42d72.jpg


Side-by-side to show the difference:
2CBF6DA1-F9CF-4830-BFDD-B362A98366E3-1668-000002185DC5CFC0_zps5114a05a.jpg


Popped em in:
662EB399-8418-44DA-8508-2BD99EC2FB47-1668-00000218666B23B2_zpsdab4f3a7.jpg


One thing I really noticed is that the helical gears spun alot smoother than the flat gears, but that is to be expected with a straight cut.

Then after I had that all installed and good to go, I pulled the compressor housing to tap for the vacuum nipple:
ADFC4625-174B-4A1D-8114-B269FCDC951C-1668-0000021872D058C5_zps4320da41.jpg

1D0A1565-E8E8-4056-ABC3-7B67A3F42508-1668-000002187900FDCC_zps19ceeb1b.jpg


Then I mounted it all on the engine:
B8555769-49BD-44C5-8A79-EB1EC832AD20-1668-00000218842B4CA8_zps432b118e.jpg


Once that was done I took the subframe outside the get these old rotted bushings out:
E68BFFFD-F825-4305-BD49-6B7FB272BB9A-1668-000002188FD57197_zps611d3a0a.jpg


It started raining so I came back in and put the OFH on and the pick-up tube:
414F0371-0DF2-4056-B86B-20EAAA3D3424-1668-00000218A8DCC49D_zps794fd55b.jpg

67D3AB37-6370-4F21-825C-783BF1051F77-1668-00000218BA9EE4D5_zps3949caf9.jpg


I had to cut the piece that connected to the main bolt because of the arp studs I have now.

I ported the drain hole on the oil pan just in case I ever get a larger drain line down the road, I wont have to take the pan back off. Its about 18-19mm now. I felt that was good enough.
9C8A14D2-215C-4BBC-9EA3-8F819BE6297C-1668-00000218B424D1ED_zps1fa4b400.jpg


Then bolted the pan on:
09BB5664-0C47-47D4-89FD-67C0B43128EB-1668-00000218CDF72E4D_zps18fa7a68.jpg

64B581DA-D54D-47E6-A959-72A28C765952-1668-00000218D52E4B78_zpsee445a81.jpg
 

DROPthatCLUTCH

Proven Member
483
2
Feb 21, 2011
Calgary, AB_Canada
So I cut the mount so I could fit my -10AN drain:
AE313B1D-42D0-4C96-85D4-749897395A26-671-00000148BE251621_zps6c94fb43.jpg

Afterwards I found out that that drain line I had wasn't going to fit with the fittings I had, so I began looking for some 45* -10AN elbows and said fck it and decided to just go -12AN so I ordered everything I needed for a -12AN drain which will be here on Wednesday.

Got another shipment in:
B7E747E8-7205-4F83-9E90-159991B77463-671-00000148E52BE764_zps72760451.jpg

Consists of: o2 housing to downpipe gasket, tial 38mm wastegate gaskets, turbine housing to o2 housing gasket, power steering belt, all three front cv boots, -4AN restrictor elbow, psi gauge, and Saturn alternator

I stripped all the old ruined conduit and shrink wrap/tape off my engine harness and fixed any broken wires and put new conduit on. This was pretty time consuming.
5A0B8C33-4CD0-471C-9417-F1271AD0500C-671-00000148F1857D9D_zpsa7068be8.jpg


Then I received the aluminum SMIM that I got from a member on here:
5AF01BC7-583A-4C7C-B079-FC5A276F83BB-671-00000148F9C519A0_zps80536aed.jpg


Put the new gaskets on for the tial and o2 housing. Copper sprayed and tightened down.
5519C634-98BF-46E5-AB97-0C5AF00600A5-671-000001490DB0293E_zpsd827ffe7.jpg


Mounted the intake mani and polished up my valve cover and set it on top to see what it'll look like:
4F6DB7D2-F7DA-4AFE-95BC-24CFE4C2D146-671-000001492CC785BE_zpsdd07c3cd.jpg

:sneaky:

Afterwards my buddy came by and we got the subframe out surprisingly quick:
D7CFDD26-71F6-4AC6-89FA-6B7735F70FDA-671-00000149349352E3_zps2aee4f11.jpg

9C8CFB46-9588-4847-BC29-C5A33CE9C5D8-671-000001493FB37098_zps13433f1f.jpg


I removed the bent subframe:
753E7103-C792-489D-9042-C5DE75CAA921-671-0000014946526765_zpsff3893c4.jpg


I ordered some por-15 which will be here on Tuesday so I'm going to cover the new subframe and control arms with it before it goes back in. Also going to wire wheel any rust off the undercarriage while it's out and por-15 coat that aswell. It's not bad at all for rust though, I expected way worse tbh.:
EE4C3F96-A8A4-4E02-9C23-7636D0D8EE85-671-000001494FF099BB_zpse9be6d2d.jpg

F5B93AB8-7D69-476F-A8E7-DB8C0460A0C0-671-00000149574280EE_zpsd384a7aa.jpg
 

yhype

Proven Member
332
11
Nov 3, 2002
Thurmont, Maryland
POR15 works better on rusty surfaces then nice clean bare metal surfaces, just an FYI. Otherwise very nice build you have coming along.
 
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