91 GSX

[1cleangsx]

No right now it’s engaging higher than it should, probably 3-4” off the floor, so I’m gonna back the rod a couple turns, away from the firewall so it engages about 2” or so off the floor as I believe that’s what Tim Zimmer said should be it’s proper engagement range. Since my pedal rebuild I had a Master Cylinder fail and a leaking slave, so I fixed all that and re bleed everything again, I’m just trying to find that sweet spot but haven’t yet . I’m in Vegas this week but when I get back home I’m gonna try to adjust it one more time before I ditch this 2700lb plate and go with the 2300lb SS plate.

 

[TCB91GSX]

No right now it’s engaging higher than it should, probably 3-4” off the floor, so I’m gonna back the rod a couple turns, away from the firewall so it engages about 2” or so off the floor as I believe that’s what Tim Zimmer said should be it’s proper engagement range. Since my pedal rebuild I had a Master Cylinder fail and a leaking slave, so I fixed all that and re bleed everything again, I’m just trying to find that sweet spot but haven’t yet . I’m in Vegas this week but when I get back home I’m gonna try to adjust it one more time before I ditch this 2700lb plate and go with the 2300lb SS plate.

Interesting, I know you make more power than me, so would a low lb pressure plate still be able handle what you are currently throwing at it ?

 

[1cleangsx]

Tim’s website rates that combo at 600ft/lbs surprisingly, the SS/B series combo that is, but it’d be nice not to have to pull the trans, but I’ll do if that’s what it takes to shift fast at 8000

 

[TCB91GSX]

Put everything back together, car shifts smoother, has a higher engagement point but still drags the clutch at like 6500 rpm’s ..to the point where the car rolls forward slightly. If I have room to back off my adjustment rod on my mc rod would that aid in reducing clutch drag or do I need to thread it in further ? Anyone?

 

[1cleangsx]

I would double check for leaks at both ends of the master and the slave, re bleed, specifically the slave as per the TRE page. Pull the clutch fork towards you and hold, crack open the bleeder and have the pedal buddy slowly press pedal, then close bleeder and slowly raise pedal, then bleed as normal. I did this method several times and was still seeing a few tiny bubbles. I know it’s overkill but I think that’s what it takes. What pressure plate do you have? Again I think even in a perfect rebuilt system it simply wasn’t designed to release a stupid heavy pressure plate, but until I have money for a twin I’m willing trade down on a lighter plate that’ll hopefully hold 500ft/lbs and let me shift.

 

[TCB91GSX]

I would double check for leaks at both ends of the master and the slave, re bleed, specifically the slave as per the TRE page. Pull the clutch fork towards you and hold, crack open the bleeder and have the pedal buddy slowly press pedal, then close bleeder and slowly raise pedal, then bleed as normal. I did this method several times and was still seeing a few tiny bubbles. I know it’s overkill but I think that’s what it takes. What pressure plate do you have? Again I think even in a perfect rebuilt system it simply wasn’t designed to release a stupid heavy pressure plate, but until I have money for a twin I’m willing trade down on a lighter plate that’ll hopefully hold 500ft/lbs and let me shift.

Rebuilt master, OEM slave. I also bled the master again after I put it all back together.
I haven’t bled the slave in that fashion, I’ve only pushed it in to close it, crack/close the bleeder.

I have a 2600 pressure plate, my car makes around 350hp I think and I don’t care to make anymore hp. I bought that because it would hold the power, but now I’m wondering if a 2100 would of been fine.

 

[CrackedDSM]

Rebuilt master, OEM slave. I also bled the master again after I put it all back together.
I haven’t bled the slave in that fashion, I’ve only pushed it in to close it, crack/close the bleeder.

I have a 2600 pressure plate, my car makes around 350hp I think and I don’t care to make anymore hp. I bought that because it would hold the power, but now I’m wondering if a 2100 would of been fine.

FWIW I pushed through a 2100 on a 14B on my 2G. It was tuned on like 21ish lbs of boost, VRSF FMIC, etc so it wasn't a stock setup, and it's a much heavier car than yours, but still. It would take a launch, maybe two, but honestly on the second launch it would start to slip/glaze over. Had to re-break the clutch in to get it to hold again. Might've just been an old example of a 2100, but I'll never forget that.

 

[1cleangsx]

My car barely dragged on the 2600, but on the evo 3 16g I could shift fast at 7000 which was all I needed on that turbo. I would play with your adjustment rod and if nothing fixes it swap to a lighter plate, that’s what I’m gonna do

 

[TCB91GSX]

Bled the master/slave some more, was considering putting the longer rod back in then decided against it.

Took the car out and warmed it up, checked for clutch drag and it was still happening.


Popped under , adjusted the clutch rod fully out and BAM … no more clutch drag.
So I started working my way back in and currently I have the rod flush with the end of the bracket. But honestly I don’t think that was it…..


I noticed upon adjusting that my floormat was not allowing my pedal to FULLY travel so I moved it out of the way on the last adjustment.

Basically the final combo was bleeding the master/slave, adjustment, and moving my floormat out of the way.

At this point I’m just going to keep breaking the clutch in and making adjustments as needed.

Thanks everyone for your input.

 

[We're on Boost]

Popped under , adjusted the clutch rod fully out and BAM … no more clutch drag.
So I started working my way back in and currently I have the rod flush with the end of the bracket. But honestly I don’t think that was it

I would guess that was part of it. Look at what English Racing did to my clevis, so that the master rod could be screwed actually out of the clevis. I have pics of it in post #4 in my build thread.
In your case where you say you "have the rod flush with the end of the bracket", if I'm guessing right about what that means, the rod is screwed about 3 turns into the clevis. 3 turns of engagement is enough for good thread engagement but not enough to turn it out of the clevis any farther. Mine apparently needed to be turned out of the clevis 1 or 2 turns more than yours, so they "extended" the clevis threads by welding that nut on the end of it.
But the floormat, yeah that too.

 

[Vegas Smith]

I once noticed that my ecu throttle % would only go to 98%ish because of the floor matt.

 

[TCB91GSX]

They left floormat removal out of the installation instructions apparently.

 

[1cleangsx]

That’s awesome man! Glad you got it working I just adjusted my rod one and a half turns out (away from firewall) which is maxed, maybe mine will release now I might also pull the floor mat out as well for some extra luck