cliffkemp
10+ Year Contributor
- 391
- 11
- Apr 19, 2010
-
carrollton,
Georgia
For sale is a 91 eclipse gsx. I have had this car for 5 or so years and was making a drag car out of it. I have had other cars come and go and, I just do not have the time for this one anymore.
It has very little interior since it was going to be drag-raced.
The cons:
It has been sitting for quite a while and, no telling what all is wrong with it or no longer works due to the sitting, more on this on the Pros part, too, bare with me.
It has almost no interior so could be good or bad
The tires are dry-rotted but, I just pumped them up and they are doing fine so far as I did it yesterday.
One of the rims might be bent but, not sure, honestly.
It needs a lot of work, in general.
1. Clutch needs to be done as in, it catches right off the floor, no exaggeration but, simple fix but, requires a lot of work. Shim the pivot ball about 1/16 of an inch and done.
2. Will need head work but, not as bad as one may think. The exhaust manifold bolt hole on the bottom left (looking at engine) is stripped most of the way in. It and others need to be fixed but not all. Also, needs new valve stems seals due to leaking oil into the exhaust system. Just rebuilt the turbo, thinking it was that but, still doing it so, seals are it.
3. Stock trans and rear and transfer case but, I have spare trans and transfer case that comes with the car. All are stock and 3 bolt rear on the car so, some do not like that.
4. Fans are not working and need to be rewired to work with switch in the car.
5. May lose oil pressure but, have a feeling I know what that is. When the motor is taken out, check to see the pan is not bent in at the pickup. Was reading 30 at idle at 1000 rpms last time it was started. May drop for some reason or another but, will get to that on the pros part. Bare with me.
6. Trunk leaks a little but almost no rust. Leaks because it used to have a spoiler and no longer. If I can think of other cons, I will post or just ask specific and will tell you what I see.
Pros:
1. It runs and once a little warm, it idles around 1000 rpms or so.
2. It has full link but, I do not have a cable for it anymore so, will need it to tune.
3. Even though it has been sitting, the brakes work and has the 1gb front brake system.
4. It has a 3 inch gm sensor that is hooked up and seems to work, still. I have extra sensors, kinda, to go with.
5. The rims, as stated above, are genuine RPF1s16x7 with stock tires on them but, they are real. If one of them is bent, have it fixed and a full set. I paid nearly 1k for them many years ago and doing good... except for the potential bent one. They are very light at 13.7 lbs each.
6. It is a 2.3L due to being a stroker motor with forged pistons and rods, according to the previous owner who had the motor built. I am sure the pistons are as there is a story behind that. It is a 4 inch stroke so, I can say it is a 2.3L and has L19 head studs and ARP mains, too. I believe it has ARP flywheel bolts too but, not 100% sure.
7. It has 272 cams with cam gears from BC along with springs and retainers.
8. A hybrid turbo. It is basically, an old school sc61 with a larger exhaust side. Mitsubishi style flange. It is a 59+inducer and 76 exducer and not sure the big side of the turbine but 65mm small side of the turbine wheel. It is good for around 600+ crank hp. A long time ago when the car was running better, it made 523 awhp, forgot the tq at the time. The turbo just has about 2 minutes of idle time on it but, not water cooled, only oil cooled but, can be converted if you want, if I remember right.
8. Tial Wastegate but, cannot remember the spring in it. Can put a BC on it and put at what you want. It really wakes up around 20psi+ and has FP exhaust manifold, too.
9. The clutch is a 2600 act, I believe and is rebuildable with a 4 puck, if my memory serves me. That clutch might have a few thousand miles on it at the most. Grabs very, very quickly. Not for the street at all.
10. HKS BOV just before the GM sensor.
11. Front mount intercooler, not sure the brand but it is decent.
12. Hard pipe for all the intercooler piping.
13. 950cc injectors on the car, too.
14. 450 Lph pump, believe it is walbro so, you have a decent pump and filter is under the car and stock filter at the pump, too.
15. Adjustable FPR, too. Don't remember the brand at all at the moment but, it works, last I remember.
16. -6 line for the fuel system, too. Pretty sure it is the whole thing, too.
17. Fairly new oil pump but, it is not Mitsu. Rock auto.
18. Fairly new alternator.
19. Fairly new water pump.
I say fairly new as, the car has sat most of the time in the last 4 or so years and, other than the motor, the oil pump, alternator, water pump have about 2000 miles or so on them at the very most as, that is all it has been driven as far as tuning and riding around seeing how the tuning is doing over those years.
All I can think of right now. Any questions, text me at 404-202-3881 and will answer what I know. Due to the oil leaking into the exhaust and the fans not working, it will need to be towed. It is green with a multi-colored hood with hood-pins but, the hood needs to be redone and the paint is not that good but, does have sunroof and does not leak, last I checked.
I started the car yesterday and today to see about the smoking and, it still smoked pretty bad and not just burning off stuff and subsiding. It moved under its own power, too so, the clutch stuff seems to be working and brakes too but, they are rusted as far as the rotors go. Fix any leaks and pull the motor and trans to do what I talked about in the list and, it can be a good drag-racing car depending on what you put in it. It shifts decent, last I remember so, syncros are good for now. It is at the stage that, if you launch it several times, hard, it is not going to be happy pretty quick and needs better parts to replace the parts it may break at the power level it can be at now. I would keep it and do all this but, I have moved on and have a Porsche 911 turbo that breathing on it wrong can cost thousands of dollars. Having to get trans rebuilt in it soon.
As for the asking price.... What do you think? Tell me, within reason, what you think it is worth. I paid 4000 for it when it just had a simple programmer on it that you turned dials on, cannot remember what it was called. The bearings are good, last I checked. It is not making clanging noises or anything like that. Give me a decent number and will go from there.
Thanks,
Cliff
It has very little interior since it was going to be drag-raced.
The cons:
It has been sitting for quite a while and, no telling what all is wrong with it or no longer works due to the sitting, more on this on the Pros part, too, bare with me.
It has almost no interior so could be good or bad
The tires are dry-rotted but, I just pumped them up and they are doing fine so far as I did it yesterday.
One of the rims might be bent but, not sure, honestly.
It needs a lot of work, in general.
1. Clutch needs to be done as in, it catches right off the floor, no exaggeration but, simple fix but, requires a lot of work. Shim the pivot ball about 1/16 of an inch and done.
2. Will need head work but, not as bad as one may think. The exhaust manifold bolt hole on the bottom left (looking at engine) is stripped most of the way in. It and others need to be fixed but not all. Also, needs new valve stems seals due to leaking oil into the exhaust system. Just rebuilt the turbo, thinking it was that but, still doing it so, seals are it.
3. Stock trans and rear and transfer case but, I have spare trans and transfer case that comes with the car. All are stock and 3 bolt rear on the car so, some do not like that.
4. Fans are not working and need to be rewired to work with switch in the car.
5. May lose oil pressure but, have a feeling I know what that is. When the motor is taken out, check to see the pan is not bent in at the pickup. Was reading 30 at idle at 1000 rpms last time it was started. May drop for some reason or another but, will get to that on the pros part. Bare with me.
6. Trunk leaks a little but almost no rust. Leaks because it used to have a spoiler and no longer. If I can think of other cons, I will post or just ask specific and will tell you what I see.
Pros:
1. It runs and once a little warm, it idles around 1000 rpms or so.
2. It has full link but, I do not have a cable for it anymore so, will need it to tune.
3. Even though it has been sitting, the brakes work and has the 1gb front brake system.
4. It has a 3 inch gm sensor that is hooked up and seems to work, still. I have extra sensors, kinda, to go with.
5. The rims, as stated above, are genuine RPF1s16x7 with stock tires on them but, they are real. If one of them is bent, have it fixed and a full set. I paid nearly 1k for them many years ago and doing good... except for the potential bent one. They are very light at 13.7 lbs each.
6. It is a 2.3L due to being a stroker motor with forged pistons and rods, according to the previous owner who had the motor built. I am sure the pistons are as there is a story behind that. It is a 4 inch stroke so, I can say it is a 2.3L and has L19 head studs and ARP mains, too. I believe it has ARP flywheel bolts too but, not 100% sure.
7. It has 272 cams with cam gears from BC along with springs and retainers.
8. A hybrid turbo. It is basically, an old school sc61 with a larger exhaust side. Mitsubishi style flange. It is a 59+inducer and 76 exducer and not sure the big side of the turbine but 65mm small side of the turbine wheel. It is good for around 600+ crank hp. A long time ago when the car was running better, it made 523 awhp, forgot the tq at the time. The turbo just has about 2 minutes of idle time on it but, not water cooled, only oil cooled but, can be converted if you want, if I remember right.
8. Tial Wastegate but, cannot remember the spring in it. Can put a BC on it and put at what you want. It really wakes up around 20psi+ and has FP exhaust manifold, too.
9. The clutch is a 2600 act, I believe and is rebuildable with a 4 puck, if my memory serves me. That clutch might have a few thousand miles on it at the most. Grabs very, very quickly. Not for the street at all.
10. HKS BOV just before the GM sensor.
11. Front mount intercooler, not sure the brand but it is decent.
12. Hard pipe for all the intercooler piping.
13. 950cc injectors on the car, too.
14. 450 Lph pump, believe it is walbro so, you have a decent pump and filter is under the car and stock filter at the pump, too.
15. Adjustable FPR, too. Don't remember the brand at all at the moment but, it works, last I remember.
16. -6 line for the fuel system, too. Pretty sure it is the whole thing, too.
17. Fairly new oil pump but, it is not Mitsu. Rock auto.
18. Fairly new alternator.
19. Fairly new water pump.
I say fairly new as, the car has sat most of the time in the last 4 or so years and, other than the motor, the oil pump, alternator, water pump have about 2000 miles or so on them at the very most as, that is all it has been driven as far as tuning and riding around seeing how the tuning is doing over those years.
All I can think of right now. Any questions, text me at 404-202-3881 and will answer what I know. Due to the oil leaking into the exhaust and the fans not working, it will need to be towed. It is green with a multi-colored hood with hood-pins but, the hood needs to be redone and the paint is not that good but, does have sunroof and does not leak, last I checked.
I started the car yesterday and today to see about the smoking and, it still smoked pretty bad and not just burning off stuff and subsiding. It moved under its own power, too so, the clutch stuff seems to be working and brakes too but, they are rusted as far as the rotors go. Fix any leaks and pull the motor and trans to do what I talked about in the list and, it can be a good drag-racing car depending on what you put in it. It shifts decent, last I remember so, syncros are good for now. It is at the stage that, if you launch it several times, hard, it is not going to be happy pretty quick and needs better parts to replace the parts it may break at the power level it can be at now. I would keep it and do all this but, I have moved on and have a Porsche 911 turbo that breathing on it wrong can cost thousands of dollars. Having to get trans rebuilt in it soon.
As for the asking price.... What do you think? Tell me, within reason, what you think it is worth. I paid 4000 for it when it just had a simple programmer on it that you turned dials on, cannot remember what it was called. The bearings are good, last I checked. It is not making clanging noises or anything like that. Give me a decent number and will go from there.
Thanks,
Cliff
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