Well, I know theres gotta be a few more audiophiles out there like myself
or at least a few guys who feel that the biggest and best is just par for them. Well whichever camp youre in, if you own a 2g DSM, youre gonna want 8s in your doors. Now this can only be done on certain models. If I remember right, the 95-96 rs's have different door panels that dont protrude like the gs/gst/gsx/esi/tsi door panels do. And I think the 97+ have the same style for all of em. Please correct me if Im wrong on this one.
Now let me start this by saying this isnt designed to by your sub-bass system. These drivers are meant to be mid-bass only, typically 60-200hz. This should be tag-teamed with a set of components in the kick panels crossed over at 200hz and a subwoofer in the trunk playing 60hz and below. Tuning the xover points is your prerogative, these are just general guidelines. Same goes with how you cross them over, weather it be active or passive. If you want my opinion, pm me, Im not going to get in a signal transfer argument here.
Second is amplifier power. Heres another one of those grey areas, where a us amps usa100 just might put out a tad bit more power then say, your flea market 50x2 kenford amp would. You want, at minimum, 50w rms per 8 driver, thats clean power from a nice amp (xtant, precision power, us amps, arc audio, etc ) some people can get by with 25wrms in a well-designed system and not be too hard on the volume knob. But I like to jam every audio system I own, so go big or go home.
If youre strapped for cash and still want that killer audio system, go on eBay and find equipment thats a couple years old. The technology really hasnt changed over the past 5 years or so, some of my equipment is older then that. If you want my advice, pm me. The system in my 99 gsx cost me $650 for everything some people spend more then that on a freakin cd player kids these days.
So back to our project, Im gonna assume you know how to take your door panels off its not rocket science. First thing I did was dynamat my doors. I used dynamat super, dynamat extreme is the newer stuff that is lighter, Ill be using extreme in the gsx. For those of you worried about the weight the dynamat adds if youre worried about that, then why are you putting 8s in your doors??? Okay, Im done. I put a layer on the outer door skin, and a layer on each side of the inner door skin, and tried to cover up any holes along the way. Any edges where air can escape should be covered. If theres a small hole, air will oscillate through it causing a whistling noise thatll drive you nuts. The goal is try and seal up the door the best you can with the dynamat. You cant get it perfect, but you can get close. Air is going to sneak out via the top where the window comes in anyway. Thats not a huge deal, dont fret. Heres a pic of the dynamited door.
Now let me start this by saying this isnt designed to by your sub-bass system. These drivers are meant to be mid-bass only, typically 60-200hz. This should be tag-teamed with a set of components in the kick panels crossed over at 200hz and a subwoofer in the trunk playing 60hz and below. Tuning the xover points is your prerogative, these are just general guidelines. Same goes with how you cross them over, weather it be active or passive. If you want my opinion, pm me, Im not going to get in a signal transfer argument here.
Second is amplifier power. Heres another one of those grey areas, where a us amps usa100 just might put out a tad bit more power then say, your flea market 50x2 kenford amp would. You want, at minimum, 50w rms per 8 driver, thats clean power from a nice amp (xtant, precision power, us amps, arc audio, etc ) some people can get by with 25wrms in a well-designed system and not be too hard on the volume knob. But I like to jam every audio system I own, so go big or go home.
If youre strapped for cash and still want that killer audio system, go on eBay and find equipment thats a couple years old. The technology really hasnt changed over the past 5 years or so, some of my equipment is older then that. If you want my advice, pm me. The system in my 99 gsx cost me $650 for everything some people spend more then that on a freakin cd player kids these days.
So back to our project, Im gonna assume you know how to take your door panels off its not rocket science. First thing I did was dynamat my doors. I used dynamat super, dynamat extreme is the newer stuff that is lighter, Ill be using extreme in the gsx. For those of you worried about the weight the dynamat adds if youre worried about that, then why are you putting 8s in your doors??? Okay, Im done. I put a layer on the outer door skin, and a layer on each side of the inner door skin, and tried to cover up any holes along the way. Any edges where air can escape should be covered. If theres a small hole, air will oscillate through it causing a whistling noise thatll drive you nuts. The goal is try and seal up the door the best you can with the dynamat. You cant get it perfect, but you can get close. Air is going to sneak out via the top where the window comes in anyway. Thats not a huge deal, dont fret. Heres a pic of the dynamited door.