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720's with 2g maf and no tune

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pantherballhp

10+ Year Contributor
155
0
Apr 4, 2010
Athens, West Virginia
Well that's the setup that came in the car I just bought. 1990 eagle talon tsi. I've searched a bit about what injectors/setup would work and until I have the funds for Dsmlink I'm stuck with what I've got. I have a set of rc 550's that I bought and was told installing them would help me. The car floods out because the injectors are so huge in it right now. So will changing to the 550's help the starting and idling? Will they be okay without tuning? Sorry if these are newb questions but this is my first dsm and a lil bit different than what I've had before. Any guidance is appreciated.

Thanks
 
You should put the stock MAF and injectors back in the car. With no way to control the larger injectors your going to get horrible fuel millage and decreased performance no matter what anyone tells you. Sure the 2g MAF and 550's are a better match, but your still losing out either way.
 
That's what I thought and didn't want to go swapping injectors twice. So it's either get the stock injectors and Maf or get a tuning device to control what's there
 
i would strongly recomend a tune with any of those injectors. If you already have the 550's on hand, intall them. Its not going to solve your problem, but it will make it better.

I do have the 550's and guess I could throw them in and deal with it till I got Dsmlink. It'd b better than fouling plugs out with these 750's
 
Well that's the setup that came in the car I just bought. 1990 eagle talon tsi. I've searched a bit about what injectors/setup would work and until I have the funds for Dsmlink I'm stuck with what I've got. I have a set of rc 550's that I bought and was told installing them would help me. The car floods out because the injectors are so huge in it right now. So will changing to the 550's help the starting and idling? Will they be okay without tuning? Sorry if these are newb questions but this is my first dsm and a lil bit different than what I've had before. Any guidance is appreciated.

Thanks

I am currently running a 2gMAF with RC 550's, Wally 255, afpr, e316g, 21psi and it runs fantastic!!! Others have run this without issue. I recently changed my oil, no gas smell present. The 550's will cancel out the 2g MAF (or visa-versa). BUt the 720's are way to big, for sure.
 
I am currently running a 2gMAF with RC 550's, Wally 255, afpr, e316g, 21psi and it runs fantastic!!! Others have run this without issue. I recently changed my oil, no gas smell present. The 550's will cancel out the 2g MAF (or visa-versa). BUt the 720's are way to big, for sure.

We have almost the exact same setup, I've got a walbro 255 and small 16g. No afpr right now though. Are u at stock fuel pressure? I'm gonna get an Afpr asap because I heard with the 255 it'll mess the stock one up or something like that. Have u ran ## car at a track? I'm trying to find some comparison Cars before I go to see how mine does.
 
The stock FPR is also contributing to your super rich condition on top of the 750's. The 255 wally is putting out so much more volume and pressure than the stock pump that the stock FPR is being overrun and it cannot bypass enough fuel to keep the pressure at a stock level, therefore, your fuel pressure is higher than normal and is another reason for your super rich condition. An AFPR is a must have, and set the fuel pressure at stock. There are some draw backs to simply running a 2g maf with no way to tune it, 550's may offset it some, and the above mentioned car probably does run decent, but don't think that it completely makes up for not having a real tune.

I would put in the 550's and get a AFPR, and a wide band so you can see your A/f's even without a way to log it is still better than being blind. And then still plan on saving a buying ecmlink at the next available time.
 
An afpr is not necessary at all especially at the level of your modifications. A 255 pump will not overrun a factory fpr...at all. That is a huge misconception and I am not sure why it keeps circulating around the forums. If one person had an issue it shouldn't be made law that you "have" to buy a afpr. The factory fpr will work!! If you decide you want to up the bling factor of your engine bay or data logging tells you that there is a discrepancy with fuel pressure buy one but until it is broke don't fix it. Oh yeah, there are 600+whp cars on this forum that run stock FPR's......Good Luck.
 
To the OP, just do some simple research on the AFPR, or 255 with stock FPR, and you will find that it is very wise to get one.
I didnt say the car wouldnt run and drive down the road. Put 255 lph at 80psi (on a HP wally) into a system that had about 100 lph max and a regulator with an FPR orifice half the size of an AFPR orifice and yes its simple fluid dynamics you will run richer. I'm not saying, nor did I say that an AFPR is required to make 600HP, lots of stuff isn't required, that doesn't mean it isn't wise if you wanted to do it "cross your t's and dot your i's). I bet those 600HP cars had a way to yune too, as in turn the injectors way down at idle, since lets say they are running twin pumps, and 2100cc injectors, YUP...might need a way to turn them down at idle.
The reason it circulates around the forums is because lots of people have had problems with it.

OP, at the end of the day. You still need some way of tuning to be the safest of the motor.
 
Iagave dsmlink ready to install, just need an EPROM ecu. and I'll be getting an afpr asap. I do have a wideband so I will be able to monitor that when I get it back up and running after paint
 
I may have an eprom ECU that I hadn't posted for sale. PM me if your interested. I don't really have a price in mind so shoot me a fair offer. Also, its already socketed and its for a 91-94. And for your injectors, I'm sure you've already figured this out, but you should be just fine with 550's and a 2g maf until your tuned. Biggest issue with running that rich isn't your injectors, it's washing out your cylinder walls
 
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