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1cleangsx, can you believe I still haven't installed the trans I bought from you! Boils down to my having a second back surgery. All healed up now the car is in the air. But, before I swap trannys, I found some rust (more, concerning rust) that I must deal with first, then it's all new bushings, then the trans. I'll be sending my broken (broken 2nd) trans to Jack's. Sure wish I still lived in Colorado Springs! Jack's was right there, ugh. Not to mention CO's arid climate meant there were always DSMs in junkyards for parts. Here, with extreme humidity, there are NONE! For two years now I've had alerts set up so if Pull-A-Part or LKQ gets a dsm I'd get an email. Happened once - a Galant VR4. I raced there and two guys were hoisting out the engine and trans. Unbelievable! Anyway, sorry I'm rambling on. I'd like to thank you again for the tranny and congratulations on that amazing build. You've overcome many challenges and have the right attitude when presented with one. Last thing, when you had Jack's build the trans on your car now, which option did you choose?
 
Hey Kyle thanks for the kind words! Jacks had the trans listed on eBay, as a “HD Drag Trans” so I didn’t buy it the conventional way with options, the listing wasn’t super descriptive, just the main points, that it had a 4 spider, double synchro 1st and 2nd gear, and an “HD” 3rd and 4th, which I assume are probably 1990 gears. If it hadn’t been for my install boo boo I’d be driving it now but I hope to be putting the head back on this week and firing it up again this weekend:thumb: I hope your back is feeling better, back surgery doesn’t sound like too much fun LOL, good luck to you and your car:)
 
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Okay so I’ll try to bring things up to speed, back in October on Halloween actually, I went for her first start and although she started she was running pretty rough and wouldn’t stay idling no matter what, pulled the plugs and the #1 plug looked new still:hmm:. So sure enough a compression test showed 0 compression in that cylinder:banghead:. So the next week I pulled the head and took it back to the machine shop for an inspection.
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Shortly after they called and let me know I had 2 bent valves
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I think what happened was back in April when assembling the long block I had the block timed up with pistons #1 and 4 at tdc, and those 2 valves made contact when I torqued the head down, stupid mistake I know LOL. So fast forward a month later and I get my head back all fixed up.
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I went ahead and purchased another head gasket to be safe, as I got a good bit of coolant on the other one when I pulled the head off, the l19’s were stored safely in oil and re used of course.
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So now she’s back together, and this past Sunday went much better than last time, compression was 155-160 across all cylinders, fired right up and at least idled on her own however, my wideband quit working 20 minutes or so in to idling. My fuel gauge doesn’t work, which I’m sure is a grounding issue with full blown hanger, and the RPM tachometer wasn’t working, and shes leaking oil pretty good on the rear main seal side, so I’m gonna be pulling the trans next week to address that BUTT, no coolant leaks, no fuel leaks, the valve covers not leaking LOL. I DID fix the RPM issue on Monday thx to a great write on this fabulous forum. With my car being a bastard 1990, it apparently had a “noise filter” on the bracket I threw away under the stock intake manifold which is responsible for the tach working. The fix is pretty clever, I basically just made a jumper wire to plug into the noise filter harness and it worked:thumb:
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Fixed. So today I’m gonna re locate the lc2 to a downstream location and re calibrate it again and see if it works, if not I guess I guess I’ll replace the sensor. I’m also contemplating a 91-94 FIAV/ISC install on this s90, as the car surges unless I leave a 1-3% throttle adjustment with the stop screw, which idles at like 16-1700 rpm’s pulling a whopping -10in vacuum LOL, so anyways that’s where I’m at, trying to tackle issues 1 at a time, stay tuned:dsm:
 
Can you or anyone explain the valves being bent while torturing the head? Were the valves not in the correct firing order ?
He probably had cams installed and 2 pistons were at the top of their stroke so when he torqued it torqued it down, it bent the valves. It’s good practice to leave the all the piston down half way in the bore so you don’t have this issue.
 
He probably had cams installed and 2 pistons were at the top of their stroke so when he torqued it torqued it down, it bent the valves. It’s good practice to leave the all the piston down half way in the bore so you don’t have this issue.
That’s exactly what I did the Second go around Tony:thumb:
 
Whats this YouTube channel mentioned? Link please :)
 
The video is on the regular DSMtuners YouTube channel which is here:
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC-ET5tEjPgOHbHyrHw4nKaw/videos
That's the "Videos" page for the channel. The thumbnails are shown in a grid with most recent first by default. So any recently uploaded video that you've lost track of is easy to find here.
 
Hey guys so after re locating the O2 sensor to the rear and plugging the front, attempting to recalibrate the sensor led to an error 8, or “bad sensor” so that’ll be on Santa’s list LOL, so no more wrenching until after Christmas, next week I’ll drain the oil, and start pulling axles and the trans/clutch/pressure plate, and hopefully figure out a way to get the fuel gauge working and hopefully be leak free next time I start her up so I can FINALLY take her around the block at least LOL, anyways enough rambling, Happy Hollidays guys I hope you ALL have a MERRY CHRISTMAS!:rocks::hellyeah::dsm:
 
Hey guys! Today was a GOOD day. I finally tackled the trans and got it back on by myself with a floor jack and some patience LOL, I had soo much anxiety on that for some reason, it was my first time stabbing the trans back on with the engine in the car. Anyways so last weekend I got the “fixes” done on my 2 oil leaks that you could see in the last video. I added some Teflon tape to the inline filter and wrenched it a little tighter which will hopefully fix that, and I replaced my rear main housing because the 2 fastener holes were ruined when I cross threaded them the first time LOL
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What started this failure was when I had to “modify” the pan with a hammer for it to clear the MainStuds on the Kiggly girdle, these 2 holes were just barely off, the motor/trans were already mated together and in the car, so I tried my best and hoped it wouldn’t leak but here we are LOL
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Now to fix this at this point I took a drill bit and bored out the 2 holes a little, dry fitted the new housing to make sure the fasteners would thread in before rtv’ing the pan. I also ran masking tape across the face of the block to prevent any metal from getting into the pan. Everything went good and I got the new housing on nice and tight with a bitchin new seal of rtv:rocks:
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So here’s the trans goin back on! This was one of those moments where I over came self doubt and worry LOL, I know you guys know what I’m talking about, such a good feeling:D And, I also cleared another hurdle today with the stupid transfer case.
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This is the output shaft seal which was leaking lightweight shockproof on the ground while idling, what you see here is the damage I did with a flat head screwdriver and some pliers LOL, after googling other options I found a tool online my local Harbor Freight had for like 8 bucks that worked like a charm.
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So once I got this thing inserted with a good bite on the seal, I put the transfer case on the floor, stood on top of it and then wacked the tool with my 4lb pounder and she came right out. That’s when I cracked a beer and turned up the radio:thumb:
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