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6 Bolt swap ran good then died HELP ###

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Wil_Own

10+ Year Contributor
48
1
Sep 29, 2011
Ches, Ohio
Ok fellas

96 Eclipse GSX 135k
6 bolt swap 2g head
Got the car together had to work out a few bugs no big deal.Well I just took it out of the shop today cruised around was getting good a/f ratio while cruising. I got on the highway running about 55 after about 8 miles the car jerked check engine light came on then went off 2 miles later the car started bogging down it died I was logging while I was doing this temps where between 206 and 213 everything was good well after the car died all it would do is crank no start.Also while it was bogging down before it died the tach started jumping up and down,so I disconnect the battery to reset the ecu it starts up barely but running pig rich!!

It stalls about 3 times before I get home the a/f is in the 9-10's will only stay running while I have my foot on the gas I have check all connections hook up v3 and got a log of it trying to idle with my foot still on the gas also got these codes

0204 Injector Circuit Malfunction-Cylinder 4
0325 Knock sensor 1 circuit malfunction
0105 barometric pressure circuit malfunction

here is the log while Idling I AM LOST HELP
Thanks
 

Attachments

  • log.2013.03.10-11.elg
    36.5 KB · Views: 45
being that i cant see any of your setup in your profile (highly suggest listing ALL your mods) that log looks just like you said PIG rich. without knowing whats under your hood i could guess that , 1- you blew off an intercooler pipe, 2, your mass air flow sensor came disconnected. start simple and LOOK at everything.
 
If the tach started going crazy most likely it's the CAS or the wiring. My plug on the CAS is broken and until I can find a good pigtail I've zip tied it. But every now and then it comes loose and I get the same thing. If you did the swap I'm assuming you wired up the 6 bolt CAS. I'd start by there.
 
E316g
Vrsf Fmic
Tank to rail fuel lab kit
MTC web
Auto meter oil pressure
Ecm link v3
Had stock injectors in I just put 550's I had laying around in.Got it to idle better I started missing with the narrowband sim OK I have the brown wire from MTx in front o2 spot and yellow wire in rear o2 spot is that OK?
It idles good now but after 30 sec goes straight lean now?
 
mtx? im assuming you mean mtx-l wideband? you can wire that way if you want, but you will need to activale the narrowband sim. check your cas as mentioned above. but if you are not running speed density i would do a boost leak test. also, i dont see a fuel pump or regulator on your mod list. check fuel pressure as well. running larger injectors on a stock un re-wired pump, with no regulator is not the best idea.
 
E316g
Vrsf Fmic
Tank to rail fuel lab kit
MTC web
Auto meter oil pressure
Ecm link v3
Had stock injectors in I just put 550's I had laying around in.Got it to idle better I started missing with the narrowband sim OK I have the brown wire from MTx in front o2 spot and yellow wire in rear o2 spot is that OK?
It idles good now but after 30 sec goes straight lean now?

Read here. Should get you set on the right path, set the narrowband sim incorrectly and you'll have issues.

http://www.ecmtuning.com/wiki/v3narrowbandsim?s=narrowband sim
 
BLT test is good would u all go SD or gm maf with translator I have translator already just heard SD changes w the weather?
Some one mentioned I might have a bad ecu ground? Where can I check that?
 
BLT test is good would u all go SD or gm maf with translator I have translator already just heard SD changes w the weather?
Some one mentioned I might have a bad ecu ground? Where can I check that?

GM MAF's from what I have read and personally experienced are really bad with weather changes. SD on the other hand, won't get any better. :)
 
Ok fellas

96 Eclipse GSX 135k
6 bolt swap 2g head
Got the car together had to work out a few bugs no big deal.Well I just took it out of the shop today cruised around was getting good a/f ratio while cruising. I got on the highway running about 55 after about 8 miles the car jerked check engine light came on then went off 2 miles later the car started bogging down it died I was logging while I was doing this temps where between 206 and 213 everything was good well after the car died all it would do is crank no start.Also while it was bogging down before it died the tach started jumping up and down,so I disconnect the battery to reset the ecu it starts up barely but running pig rich!!

It stalls about 3 times before I get home the a/f is in the 9-10's will only stay running while I have my foot on the gas I have check all connections hook up v3 and got a log of it trying to idle with my foot still on the gas also got these codes

0204 Injector Circuit Malfunction-Cylinder 4
0325 Knock sensor 1 circuit malfunction
0105 barometric pressure circuit malfunction

here is the log while Idling I AM LOST HELP
Thanks

check the maf the cas and your tps might be a boost leak to or your ecu is shorting out
 
i LOVE SD. the first time i blew off a pipe after my SD conversion was awesome cause..... the car still ran. it takes a little getting used to tuning but its nice.

I would take SD over a MAF anyday. About one of the very few and rare times I've popped a coupler lose, but I did a 3rd gear pull once and the coupler that goes on the turbo came off. So I pulled over, confirmed it was that. Turned my A/C back on, put my windows up and rode all the way home (about 3 miles) jamming with my music and A/C blasting. Got home, let it cool down and fixed it. I wanna see you do that with a MAF. :p
 
I'm going to post another log where it is going lean my wideband is hooked up to the log can anyone give me any advice on my settings would be great I just really need help SD is on its way
 

Attachments

  • log.2013.03.11-08.elg
    37.1 KB · Views: 41
I'm going to post another log where it is going lean my wideband is hooked up to the log can anyone give me any advice on my settings would be great I just really need help SD is on its way

I don't think your Narrowband Simulation is setup right. It has to cycle the front o2 and it's not. WHy do you have both wires hooked up? The way I did it on mine was I just hooked up the 5v logging wire from my AEM to the rear o2 input on my ECU. Then in LINK, I just specified that for the Narrowband Simulation I had it in the rear o2 and that's it. It might cause an issue to have it wired in to the front and the back o2.

Also, then you have to properly adjust it, did you read the link I gave you? Seems like you just entered the "recommended" starting points indicating you probably did not read it.
 
Still stumped about why this wideband is staying at one voltage on link I have adjusted it with the average volts I Wired the wideband with the front 02 everything is correct recheck 4 times and it does not wanna cycle I stay in open loop?
I have read and read here is another long its about a 4 mile log to wally world LOL any advice ?kinda lengthy gotta skip forward on it
 

Attachments

  • log.2013.03.12-10.elg
    101.1 KB · Views: 49
Yea I did that the sensor it's self is working great link and the sensor match up just the narrowband sim is not cycling
 
Yea I did that the sensor it's self is working great link and the sensor match up just the narrow band sim is not cycling

Here load this up and removed the Item as LC-1 from the ECU inputs tab from the Rear o2 an set it back as stock. As that is the preprogrammed 0-1v narrow band simulation output the gauge comes preprogrammed with. The front o2 is getting the w/b signal. But it is locked at 0.51 volts by link. This file will fix that

As it is now if you swapped the outputs from the W/b controller. The car would be running off of it's narrow band simulation. Rather then the system in link with it off.
 
Last edited:
My1gdsm you are awesome thank you so much i will be emailing u tonight with the info you needed thanks again !!
 
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