6 bolt stock rebuild questions

[G Curlz]

So I picked up my 90 Tsi for 500 dollars all stock 127k on it and I need to rebuild the motor due to lower compression, rings are junk. I just need to know everything I'm going to need to replace I know I need piston rings rear main seal all new gaskits head studs main bearings timing components my question is what else do I need and what alternative brands to oem are good. Also it's goin to be my daily so no more then 20 25psi on it. A list would be great if someone could provide but here's mine at the moment

Arp head studs,mls head gaskit, oem piston rings, main bearings and rod bearings, timing components, balance shaft elim kit, all that is around 750 from extremepsi anyone have alternative parts that will save me a little bit of money let me know thanks guys

 

[bonusboy]

You really can't go wrong sticking to oem. If your in there i'd toss in some 2g pistons or evo x. ACL bearings, cosmetic HG. you have to make sure the block and head are dead flat to use the mls HG or they will leak.

I've ran my stock 7 bolt to 300 000km with an hta68 and a oem hg and studs 28 psi all day long

 

[Cdc1221]

forget the mls gasket. run a felpro permatorque. you DONT want to run anything but the STOCK pistons until you have a way to tune for higher compression on a 1g. im in the middle of the same build on my tsi. Im about $700-800 in and haven't touched the bottom end aside from new oil pan gasket and bolts

 

[G Curlz]

Yah this isn't going to be anything special just want it up and running again since I need a daily driver as of now I daily my 2g and man 5 degree starts hurt with 280 cams haha

 

[Eurogaps]

So I picked up my 90 Tsi for 500 dollars all stock 127k on it and I need to rebuild the motor due to lower compression, rings are junk. I just need to know everything I'm going to need to replace I know I need piston rings rear main seal all new gaskits head studs main bearings timing components my question is what else do I need and what alternative brands to oem are good. Also it's goin to be my daily so no more then 20 25psi on it. A list would be great if someone could provide but here's mine at the moment

Arp head studs,mls head gaskit, oem piston rings, main bearings and rod bearings, timing components, balance shaft elim kit, all that is around 750 from extremepsi anyone have alternative parts that will save me a little bit of money let me know thanks guys

if you have a proven engine and ready for 20 or 25 psi yo have to use OEM bearings or ACL bearings

your engine its 90 have too years ago, replace head studs for conventionals ARP or OEM but you have to replace head studs

MLS head gasket? you can use the mitsubishi 2 layers or cometic

Sorrry sir but if you dont waste your money you have to buy proven parts

20 or 25 psi is not a game

my two cents

sorry what turbo you have?

forget the mls gasket. run a felpro permatorque. you DONT want to run anything but the STOCK pistons until you have a way to tune for higher compression on a 1g. im in the middle of the same build on my tsi. Im about $700-800 in and haven't touched the bottom end aside from new oil pan gasket and bolts

felpro permatorque its other good choice but my personal opinion the mitsubishi mls are the better

 

[G Curlz]

It's all stock ATM but it's going to be like my 2g right now all my 2g has is bse kit mls and arps and I'm running 23psi on pump zero counts of knock and my 20g is going in next so more boost will be pushed I know if tuned right 25psi is a breeze with arps and even a oem hg I have faith in this method seeing as I push my 2g every day and this motor will only be on stock boost for a year or so then it will gradually get mods and so on. I just wanted different opinions thanks guys

And every part I posted is a proven part @eurogaps I don't cut corners or I wouldn't be driving my 2g everyday 500 miles a week with no issues. I harass my car constantly and not once has it broken down on me and if you don't know what a mls hg is SIR then you shouldn't be giving me your TWO CENTS. I don't mean to come off rude but I know what works seeing as in 20 25psi isn't a game and I push 23 daily I must be doing Alrite. Thanks though

 

[TeamFury]

I would just like to point out one thing in your build that you should change. Being as you have a 6 bolt block, And this is only my suggestion but the standard ARP's for the head are not as strong as the OEM ones. So either go OEM or with the L19's or something similar. I used standard ARP's with a composite gasket lasted roughly 5K miles. Tune was good and they were fine with the 16G but once I put a 60-1 on the car the H.G ended up blowing. Now there are a lot of people who run standard ARP's with no problems at all. Just thought you would want to look into it here on the forums. Good Luck on your build.

 

[Diamond Star Werks]

Ok hold up before you make that statement. I just wanna make sure that when you blew your headgasket that you replaced your arp studs with oem bolts directly after. And that your 16g wasnt to same tune you used to run your 60_1? And you had proper machine work done prior to installing the arps. And that you didn't blew a headgasket in at least two months. If that isnt true then that statement is a wash.

 

[My1GLaser]

For your goals, standard APRs and a composite HG should work fine.

My standard arps held fine up until 35 psi on my HX35 with an OEM MLS. After 2 MLS gaskets and pushing coolant issues, I just went with a Felpro composite and L19s.

 

[BogusSVO]

Fel-pro Composite HG w/ ARP have been proven time and time again to the 500HP mark w/ good tune

Have the block decked, Even if it checks flat with a feeler gauge and straight edge, the feeler gauge it wide enough to "Bridge" over low spots
Without knowing how many HG have been replaced in the 20 odd years of this engine being running.

Next have the press fit balls in the crank removed, so the crud can be removed. So it will not end up in the rod bearings.

Pic a flavor of bearings, ACL, Clevite or King, No need for race bearings on a DD build

Add a set of BC1100 valve springs to replace, I would bet, wore out stock valve springs

 

[goldeninja20]

I ran hastings piston rings. They may be the same brand as the oem ones. I payed 60 for them, king bearings (main and rod) were 45 dollars. For some reason 750 seems to be a little steep. I'm in mass too if you need a hand.

 

[Eurogaps]

It's all stock ATM but it's going to be like my 2g right now all my 2g has is bse kit mls and arps and I'm running 23psi on pump zero counts of knock and my 20g is going in next so more boost will be pushed I know if tuned right 25psi is a breeze with arps and even a oem hg I have faith in this method seeing as I push my 2g every day and this motor will only be on stock boost for a year or so then it will gradually get mods and so on. I just wanted different opinions thanks guys

And every part I posted is a proven part @eurogaps I don't cut corners or I wouldn't be driving my 2g everyday 500 miles a week with no issues. I harass my car constantly and not once has it broken down on me and if you don't know what a mls hg is SIR then you shouldn't be giving me your TWO CENTS. I don't mean to come off rude but I know what works seeing as in 20 25psi isn't a game and I push 23 daily I must be doing Alrite. Thanks though

I see no reason why you have to be rude, I suggested only a better set up for your engine, if you run 23 psi in your 2g with a 20g for daily and never broke or twist a rod is an achievement, I never do IT, because for my opinion is a risk.

and If you Know what works and do not open for others opinions yo dont try to ask about

Fel-pro Composite HG w/ ARP have been proven time and time again to the 500HP mark w/ good tune

Have the block decked, Even if it checks flat with a feeler gauge and straight edge, the feeler gauge it wide enough to "Bridge" over low spots
Without knowing how many HG have been replaced in the 20 odd years of this engine being running.

Next have the press fit balls in the crank removed, so the crud can be removed. So it will not end up in the rod bearings.

Pic a flavor of bearings, ACL, Clevite or King, No need for race bearings on a DD build

Add a set of BC1100 valve springs to replace, I would bet, wore out stock valve springs

ok I would like to know something
DD built consist in? what turbo, what revs spin what psi of boost? what levels of engine stress

I have a friend he have a DD Evo but he have buschur stage 3 engine and a big turbo and spins maybe 10k revs

I'm a little confused with the term DD not all mean the same

 

[goldeninja20]

I see no reason why you have to be rude, I suggested only a better set up for your engine, if you run 23 psi in your 2g with a 20g for daily and never broke or twist a rod is an achievement, I never do IT, because for my opinion is a risk.

and If you Know what works and do not open for others opinions yo dont try to ask about



ok I would like to know something
DD built consist in? what turbo, what revs spin what psi of boost? what levels of engine stress

I have a friend he have a DD Evo but he have buschur stage 3 engine and a big turbo and spins maybe 10k revs

I'm a little confused with the term DD not all mean the same

I do not think 23 psi is too much. As long as it is not a gt42. a 16g at 23 psi will be sufficient. With the supporting injectors and fuel system there will be no risk at 20-25 psi. With a fairly small turbo.

 

[tektic]

If your looking to spin the motor to 10k your going to need to upgrade the head internals. With higher boost and rpm you get what's called valve float. If your trying for low budget you can get springs and retainers New or used set from an EVO viii or ix. Or just buy an aftermarket set.

 

[goldeninja20]

Theres absolutely no reason to rev higher than 7500. You can run 272s on stock valve train, as i am right now. I have reved to 7500 without any problems. You are not making any more power after that. Reving to 10k is not what dsms do. Unless you plan on making 1000+ hp.

 

[Eurogaps]

I do not think 23 psi is too much. As long as it is not a gt42. a 16g at 23 psi will be sufficient. With the supporting injectors and fuel system there will be no risk at 20-25 psi. With a fairly small turbo.

nice I never tryed it because i have too fear to broke or twist anything jajajaa

but today i learned new thing

Theres absolutely no reason to rev higher than 7500. You can run 272s on stock valve train, as i am right now. I have reved to 7500 without any problems. You are not making any more power after that. Reving to 10k is not what dsms do. Unless you plan on making 1000+ hp.

which 272 have you? kelford? with stock valve train?

 

[tektic]

Theres absolutely no reason to rev higher than 7500. You can run 272s on stock valve train, as i am right now. I have reved to 7500 without any problems. You are not making any more power after that. Reving to 10k is not what dsms do. Unless you plan on making 1000+ hp.

Don't say never. If you have a built trans and a big volume turbo and maybe a destroked moter there is definitely a reason because it will pull over 8500.

You can run 272s on a stock valve train, but most every cam manufacturer tells you not to because of adverse effects.

 

[BogusSVO]

You can run the smaller 272 cams on a stock valve train, like the BC, HKS, FP/Comp

You go to big 272, like the kefords, you should step the valve train up to a good beehive spring, Like the Kiggley. or GSC 5041