6 bolt rebuild... what to do?

[marsh63]

ok well im rebuilding my 1990 tsi awd. the reason i am doing this is because i want the ballance shaft gone since it slipped and caused a valve to break. the motor had about 150 lbs(each cylinder) of compression before i took the valve broke.

my question is what should i do to make this motor strong? and will any of the parts that i got so far not good and i should return? and anything else you might want to add like sugestions and such.

ok heres for the cylinder head
bc stainless valves (standard size)
ferrea valve guides and seals
arp head studs
comeetic head gasket (3 layer metal)
all other gaskets for head
mr gasket copper exhaust gasket

im keeping my stock cams till i get more money.

bottom end
bse kit
gaskets and seals
new bearings (rods and mains)
new oil pump kit
i want to get wiescos (but i havn't pulled the pistons to mic them yet) what compression pistons should i get?
im going to keep my stock rods and have my crank polished.

another question is if i do all this will i need to get any like supporting mods? (link electronic stuff) i want to build my motor now (to be able to handl like 500hp in the future) since i cant drive a stick till my left knee heals and i might have to have surgery so i have some time to build this.

right now i am running the 14b (at 14lbs of boost) so i know i wont be able to build the power i want till i get the injectors and all the electronic stuff that goes with it. but will this setup be fine and run normal till i can get the injectors and stuff?

any help would be great. thanks

 

[marsh63]

my new toys are coming in now!!!!!! heres a pic

oh and please tell me if i need anything more or not. oh btw thats not all the parts for the rebuild i have to wait till i remove the pistons to check for what size i need. and im waiting on intake valves and other stuff.

 

[silver bullit]

Block check out ok no nics in the walls etc..?

 

[marsh63]

yep no nicks in the wall im so glad that piece went all the way out. the cylinder with the broken valve piston is acually the nicest. but the ways are perfect.

 

[Siral3x]

If your goal is 500hp or so then the stock rods are not the way to go..well not safe anyways.
I would use ARP rod bolts also bc they are cheap and worth it. Make sure you get the cyl head nice and clean, tested by a machinist. Why not go for TI springs retainers?? They are worth it..specialy if you plan to run different cams. If you are on a budget just have new valve seals, your guides and new valves put it.
I'm not gonna talk abt new rings/you said wiseco pistons and bearings..since I hope you know that they all have to be changed.
Water pump/front case/new OEM belts and tensioners are a must! They tend to be forgoten by many tuners and it's a NO!NO! on the 4g63's.

 

[fourreGsixty3]

Stock rods are fine if you know what you are doing. My buddy Jimmy bought a 6-bolt from the junkyard, and is running 10.9s...oh, and he didn't do anything to it besides new gaskets, and fluids.

To the OP, I'd say shot peen your 1G rods while they are out. Deck the head, and block to assure a good seal with the HG cause you don't want to take everything out again due to a coolant/oil leak. Replace your timing belt, and harmonic balancer (unless you have done that recently), and change out the water pump, and such... pretty much anything preventative maintenance. Grab a set of 8.0 CR Wiseco's, and you will be good. As far as size needed you can tell Wiseco OE size forged piston's (as long as the block hasn't been bored before). Also check the cyl. walls for glazing, and a flexible hone job wouldn't be a bad idea so that way your new rings have a nice new cyl. wall to mate with, and oil stays on the walls longer. Keep your knock sensor, if its bad then replace it.

Also with the BSE make sure you turn the bearings so that you don't have loss of oil pressure.

As well as all the stuff that you already stated.

 

[marsh63]

ok as far as the springs go i can put those on at a different time when i get my cams. right now i dont have the money for the cams or springs. i just want to build the black so it can handle added power.

as far as the weiscos go what compression should i get. 8.3 or 9.0

my water pump and tensioner are like 400 mile of use on them untill this broke so they are still good.

so i need to get arp or bc rod bolts
and new rods.

also i here alot about people putting 2g rods in their 1gs. what help dose this do?

 

[fourreGsixty3]

You don't need new rods. Id say have yours magnafluxed, and if they check out then have them shot peened for added surface strengthening. You water pump, and tensioners are good then, but I would take care of the rest of the T-belt/serp. belts. When the time comes for cams, and springs I recommend FP. They have a great set of springs, and very well made cam's.

For compression I'd say closer to stock the better. So 8.3 CR would be good, but you can realistically go with what ever CR you want just depends how little/much timing, and boost you want to run on pump gas.

People put the 2G pistons on 1G rods due to them being that they have higher CR, which can attest to a slight amount more of off spool power/unnoticeable quicker spool, but this can lead to a larger possibility of detonation/pulled timing if running stock everything.

 

[marsh63]

yeah ill just go with my rods then but ill have them shot peened. my t belt is about 400 miles old too. but i think to be safe ill just replace it again.

but as far as cams and springs go i wont be able to do that now unless i stumble across another $500 somehow. i can put the springs in later right without pulling the head?

i wont be getting my hp out of it till i get my new turbo and supporting mods like injectors and the electronics. (dsm link, maft ect..)

most of the time with this car i will be running 92 octane. maybe some race gas.

 

[Siral3x]

yeah ill just go with my rods then but ill have them shot peened. my t belt is about 400 miles old too. but i think to be safe ill just replace it again.

but as far as cams and springs go i wont be able to do that now unless i stumble across another $500 somehow. i can put the springs in later right without pulling the head?

i wont be getting my hp out of it till i get my new turbo and supporting mods like injectors and the electronics. (dsm link, maft ect..)

most of the time with this car i will be running 92 octane. maybe some race gas.

You have to pull the head to change your springs...some would say that you could use compressed air to do it but it's foolish. Installing keepers on valves while compressing the spring with the head bolted down it's not very easy! It would be if you would have another pair of hands I guess...

As far as CR we could debate and argue forever
The smaller the CR the more boost you can teoreticaly run with a chance of less knock/detonation. The downside is the turbo lag...
EXAMPLE (my ex 95 evo III):
If the CR is higher like 9.0 (EX: EVO III motor) combined with a better flowing exhaust system will spool up that evo III 16G turbo faster with less turbo lag. With a proper tune, 720cc injectors, 20psi boost, I got really close to 392whp and I know the turbo could be pushed more.

 

[marsh63]

ok well then ill see if i can come up with the extra money for the springs now. i mean i cant drive the car for 3 months due to my torn acl in left knee. ill have to do the cams later though. anyways if i did the cams now i would have to get a logger or something like that right? what cams should i get later on anyways? i want it to be reliable and a high power daily driver. the car is not going to be a drag car i want street/autocross car.

i got to go buy a flexible hone here in a few days. oh btw my motor has never been bored. its a stock 85mm bore.

 

[Siral3x]

Cams you can change with the head on...HMM...I like 272/272 HKS cams. They are a little lumpy and like to revv. They are not a good choise for autocross...You want fast turbo spool, and mild cams for autocross. Different people have different opinions...

 

[marsh63]

yeha i knew i could do the cams later. what are the stock cam size?

like 264 cams for autox? or what size?

i was thinking 272s but i want autox.