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6 bolt crank ball plug removal?

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Blindsey

15+ Year Contributor
243
1
Sep 17, 2007
Holladay, Utah
I thought there was a thread covering this but couldn't find it. What's the best way to remove them and plug em back up after cleaning?
Thanks!
 
Use a tig welder to "melt" the balls out.

A 6 bolt crank should use a 1/4 x 20 x 3/8 set screw.

Make sure you use a good quality new tap with oil when you tap the holes.

Also use Lock-tite green sleeve retaining grade on the set screw.
 
You think easy, yes it is simple enough, but half a turn to far with the tap and it will snap off in the oil galley hole of the crank.
 
I'll definitely be cautious, thanks for the heads up
 
Check in the tech section. I did a write up on cleaning the crank without removing the balls.
I found that thread while searching. It doesn't cover how to actually remove the ball plug, just how to squirt it with brake cleaner. :notgood:
 
Why do you insist on drilling or burning them out? It is a lot more work and cost a lot more. I guess you are planning to balance the crank too. Burning them out with a tig torch is a bad idea. I never seen it done but I guess people do it. Heating that ball bearing up too much can turn it to carbide. You are likely to fuse the ball against the crank or cause it to be too brittle at that point. It will be near impossible to drill it afterward if it turn to carbide if you don't have a cobalt drill bit or carbide drill bit. A little bit of weight can throw the crank out of balance. If you can drill it out without taking too much material off, you might get away with not balancing the crank. After adding the set screw plug, you can potentally throw the balance out. Most machine shop charges 100-250 to balance the crank. You can potential spend $100-250++ and a crank trying to be too fancy. That is my take on this. If you got the money, guts, a lot of skill, and time, i like to see it done your way.
 
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I have done over 30 this way, Not only the 4g63 but other import cranks too. Never an issue, and I like being able to look down the oil galley and know it is clean.

That's the thing about engine building, One can be as anal about cleaning as one wants.

The cost is not all that much, and your price could be right for some shops.
 
I got a busted crank and a tig welder. I have try it out. How are you burning them out with melting them to the rest of crank?
 
Just finished. Really simple, heated the ball up until it was glowing, hit it with shop air and it popped right out. I'll try and take some pictures. it's seriously nasty in there, the hole left is completely blocked with crud.
 
Just finished. Really simple, heated the ball up until it was glowing, hit it with shop air and it popped right out. I'll try and take some pictures. it's seriously nasty in there, the hole left is completely blocked with crud.

Please do! It would be good for people to know how much junk builds up under there.

FWIW, I've personally trashed a brand new set of bearings due to debris that was stuck behind the ball plugs. The crank was cleaned and checked for flow, but obviously that wasn't enough. I had them pull the plugs, scrub the galleys, and thread in new plugs. When I pulled the rod caps after break in and the bearings were perfect. No balancing was done and the engine is still going strong after 8k miles of abuse. This shortblock has honestly put up with more than I ever expected it too (due to my own errors).
 
Please do! It would be good for people to know how much junk builds up under there.

FWIW, I've personally trashed a brand new set of bearings due to debris that was stuck behind the ball plugs. The crank was cleaned and checked for flow, but obviously that wasn't enough. I had them pull the plugs, scrub the galleys, and thread in new plugs. When I pulled the rod caps after break in and the bearings were perfect. No balancing was done and the engine is still going strong after 8k miles of abuse. This shortblock has honestly put up with more than I ever expected it too (due to my own errors).

I honestly didn't expect to see what I did. I only have my cell to take pictures with and it doesn't zoom very well. I'll try my Ipad later when my wife gets home with it.
I'm sure the brake cleaner trick works okay, but no chance it was going to do the job 100% IMHO.
 
Im about to bring my crank to a welding shop to have them tig them out.
So after it gets to machine shop for cleaning and a polish will I need to have it threaded with set screws before it gets balanced?
 
You have to plug those oil galleys some how. the set screw is about the simplest.
 
Pics as promised.
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After getting one out and poking through the crud with my pocket screw driver.
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Pretty easy to remove. Lost one somewhere
 
yep... the crud I am used to seeing behind the balls.
 
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