6 bolt block assembly & oil pump help!!!!

[billyt]

Fellow DSMers, here is my quick info and question.

I got a 6 bolt block which I'm in the process of rebuilding and is going into a 97gst.
I've bought:
BLOCK:
-Stock Crank
-wiseco .020 over pistons
-manle rods
-ARP's main and headbolts
-ACL race bearings(STD)
-Cometic MLS headgasket
-Cometic full gasket set (will order)
-OEM oil pump (will order- wallet breaker...)
-Gates water pump (will order)
-hydraulic timing tensioner OEM (will order)
- BSE kit (will order)

Head:
-Crower 272 cams
-AEM adjustable cam gears
-titanium springs and retainers

Other:
Evo 3 big 16g Turbo
SAFC 2
Wideband 02 (will order)
Walboro 255 FP
RC 550 injectors

My HP goals is between 350 - 400. I'll be assembling the engine myself with a friend. This is my first build on a 4g63t but I have been reading a lot and have the Chilton Repair Manual. Luckly, when I took out the pistons I noticed my cylinders were bored out to .020 over (money saved from the machine shop ) but I will check for the piston to wall clearance this weekend as per WISECO's recommendation (.003 ptw). I will check for my Main and Rod clearances also End gap clearance?

Questions:

1-)Should I go with the numbers on the Chilton Manual since I'm using forged pistons and rods?

2-)Is there a How to, step by step, write up on the block assembly with these parts? ( there is none in the VFAQ site)

3-)Should I get an OEM oil pump or get a Topline oil pump or a Topline oil pump case with OEM gears??

4-) Am I missing anything else?

Thanks a lot for the help!!

 

[Gamble97]

Get a GMB water pump they are $40 and awesome.
Never ever ever ever get anything made by topline.

 

[bryanwheat]

Go with the ptw clearance that the piston manufacturer recommends. As for rod bearing clearance. I would run it with a bit more clearance than what they do from the factory to make up for thermal expansion. For torque specs to with stock specs on stock bolts, and recommended specs for aftermarket bolts. For the oil pump i would get the oem Hyundai pump which are like 130, or an oem. Also with the balance shafts get the oem shaft and block off plug. You can use the balance shaft bearings that are in the block to block the holes. You will also want to get rid of that safc if you want to make and kind of good power, and get larger injectors.

Realistically for your horsepower goals a good stock rebuilt 6 bolt will more than handle than what you are trying to make. You can save alot of money and put it where you really need it like in dsmlink and your fuel system.

 

[billyt]

Thanks for the info guys...

On that OEM Hundai oil pump.... is it the same as the oem 6 bolt 4g63? if so, where can I get one, what year Hundai & Model should I get it from and does it come with the gears for $130??

Thanks Again

I'll get rid of the SAFCII then and tune with DSM link.

 

[BogusSVO]

You will use the ARP torque specs for the head and main studs.

You will use the torque specs from Mahle for the con rod bolts.

CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN then clean some more!

Make sure to clean out the oil galles in the crank!!

Clean the block!!

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/cylinder-head-short-block/362154-how-final-wash-engine-block.html

 

[billyt]

I found this 95 Hyundai Sonata oil pump for $95 from car parts discounts. Will this bolt up straight to the 6 bolt block?

1995 Hyundai Sonata Oil Pump 21310 33142

Thanks Again.

Thanks Bogus,.i will definitely follow that word for word....