jfdid
15+ Year Contributor
- 267
- 1
- Dec 18, 2003
-
Calgary,
Alberta_Canada
Hey guys. Long post if you have some time.
Turns out a valve snapped off and played pinball with my head and a piston. So, time for a rebuild. It was originally going to cost me about 800 bucks to fix. But the speed bug is always in the back of my head. And it stung me.
Here's the rundown of what I did. I did all of the work myself except the machining and the assembly of the bottom end(pistons, crank etc.)
Parts listed below.
Cetus Engines South Calgary did all of the machining(block and flywheel). Review of them? Kinda slow, the machinist, Will, has time to talk to you about your engine. They seemed kinda unprofessional because they did my head without me giving the go-ahead and such. I would probably try somewhere else next time, but it's my first real 'engine shop experience' so...well, I'll leave it at that.
I bought an engine hoist and stand. The hoist is a LIFE SAFER....buy one, don't rent. I would have spent more money if I rented. The hoist is only 260 bucks, I got it from Auto Value. I didn't use the engine stand because I didn't have any bolts long enough. So I used two tires instead.
I pulled the engine by myself, and put it back in by myself. The timing belt job needs 2 or 3 people to be sucessful.
When I got it all back together, the clutch was Screeching really badly. So out comes the Tranny. This took two people to accomplish. 2 hours start to finish to drop it. 2 hours contemplation and research and 1.5 hours to get it back in. The engine hoist is a life saver for this too.
Back in and it's good. It needs to be bled and needs to be adjusted and broken in, but everything's working pretty well except my rad fan. It's hooped. I need a new one.
I had no idea not to use synthetic oil for the break it, so there goes 50 dollars worth of Mobil one since I had already filled it. TO break it in: 20 mins at 2000 RPM. 5 or 6 trips of 10 minutes long going from 2000 RPM to 4000 Rpm at about 3/4 throttle. Change the oil at 50 miles, 300, 1000, and then you're good to go.
Oh, 2g pistons on 1g rods...NOT worth it unless you can cut them yourself. They cost me 100 bucks a rod to get cut. You could get Eagles for just a couple bucks more.
All in all, a sucessful job(knock on wood), it wasn't that hard to do and get everything hooked up. It just kinda fell into place.
I think the hardest part would have been the vacuum line MESS under the hood, but I went to Taboo's website and just removed everything I didn't need. It was pretty nice.
If anyone has ANY questions about anything, don't hesitate to ask, I've learned a myriad of things these last 6 months.
[email protected]
Bore and Hone to .020" over.
.020"(.5mm) over Mitsubishi 2G pistons and rings
ARP Head studs
ARP Rod bolts
Main and rod bearings.
4 layer Mitsubishi Head Gasket
Rebuild Head with new seals and some new valves.
Resurface Head
Deck block.
New oil pump
Timing belt(new pulleys, idlers, tensioner...everything)
Balance Shaft Elimination Kit
3g lifters
Water pump
Alternator
CenterForce Dual Friction clutch.
New throwout(release) bearing.
New 2nd gear synchros, hub, sleeve, springs.
And a whole lot of gaskets.
A bunch of little stuff I needed...power steering rack, bolts etc.
Turns out a valve snapped off and played pinball with my head and a piston. So, time for a rebuild. It was originally going to cost me about 800 bucks to fix. But the speed bug is always in the back of my head. And it stung me.
Here's the rundown of what I did. I did all of the work myself except the machining and the assembly of the bottom end(pistons, crank etc.)
Parts listed below.
Cetus Engines South Calgary did all of the machining(block and flywheel). Review of them? Kinda slow, the machinist, Will, has time to talk to you about your engine. They seemed kinda unprofessional because they did my head without me giving the go-ahead and such. I would probably try somewhere else next time, but it's my first real 'engine shop experience' so...well, I'll leave it at that.
I bought an engine hoist and stand. The hoist is a LIFE SAFER....buy one, don't rent. I would have spent more money if I rented. The hoist is only 260 bucks, I got it from Auto Value. I didn't use the engine stand because I didn't have any bolts long enough. So I used two tires instead.
I pulled the engine by myself, and put it back in by myself. The timing belt job needs 2 or 3 people to be sucessful.
When I got it all back together, the clutch was Screeching really badly. So out comes the Tranny. This took two people to accomplish. 2 hours start to finish to drop it. 2 hours contemplation and research and 1.5 hours to get it back in. The engine hoist is a life saver for this too.
Back in and it's good. It needs to be bled and needs to be adjusted and broken in, but everything's working pretty well except my rad fan. It's hooped. I need a new one.
I had no idea not to use synthetic oil for the break it, so there goes 50 dollars worth of Mobil one since I had already filled it. TO break it in: 20 mins at 2000 RPM. 5 or 6 trips of 10 minutes long going from 2000 RPM to 4000 Rpm at about 3/4 throttle. Change the oil at 50 miles, 300, 1000, and then you're good to go.
Oh, 2g pistons on 1g rods...NOT worth it unless you can cut them yourself. They cost me 100 bucks a rod to get cut. You could get Eagles for just a couple bucks more.
All in all, a sucessful job(knock on wood), it wasn't that hard to do and get everything hooked up. It just kinda fell into place.
I think the hardest part would have been the vacuum line MESS under the hood, but I went to Taboo's website and just removed everything I didn't need. It was pretty nice.
If anyone has ANY questions about anything, don't hesitate to ask, I've learned a myriad of things these last 6 months.
[email protected]
Bore and Hone to .020" over.
.020"(.5mm) over Mitsubishi 2G pistons and rings
ARP Head studs
ARP Rod bolts
Main and rod bearings.
4 layer Mitsubishi Head Gasket
Rebuild Head with new seals and some new valves.
Resurface Head
Deck block.
New oil pump
Timing belt(new pulleys, idlers, tensioner...everything)
Balance Shaft Elimination Kit
3g lifters
Water pump
Alternator
CenterForce Dual Friction clutch.
New throwout(release) bearing.
New 2nd gear synchros, hub, sleeve, springs.
And a whole lot of gaskets.
A bunch of little stuff I needed...power steering rack, bolts etc.