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2G 5 speed awd trans capability and durability?

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NWHTanK

10+ Year Contributor
1,505
499
Apr 23, 2011
Odessa, Missouri
Since these platforms have been out thier for some time, Then what are the so called facts of staged build transmissions.. Rpm, torque,and hp capability and durability. I bought my built trans years ago and haven't installed it yet. Come to find out years later that I shouldn't push past 450 torque and 8,500 rpm. If had know that years ago I would have saved up more for a dog box. Also is the billet mid plate really worth it on a staged trans?
 
I wouldn't waste money on a billet endplate with stock gears. If you want the trans to last, I'd shoot for less than 400ft*lbs, and keep the clutch reasonable.

As a point of reference, my car just went 9.92@143, and it's 3200lbs. It has an act2900 and a 6 puck. That's way to much clutch, and really a 2600 is probably too much. I think I'm going to try a 2100 with it now.
 
Well I'm kinda over kill on a clutch that I bought a many years ago for my awd swap.
 

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Alot of parts I purchased years ago , and now it's almost time to put things together. 2.0 aluminum long rod rotating assembly, BB black . And a long list of parts that are in my profile.
 
I broke a stock trans years ago launching it hard. Learned how to slip the clutch correctly and stock trans as been living for 5 years. But my set up doesn't make good power till 5,000rpm+ so the low tq really helps keep them alive.
 
I just broke my trans 2 weeks ago that I built 3 years ago, the first one I ever did. Car's making close to 600whp, not sure on the torque, 3108lbs with me and saw at least 40 10 second passes. I broken when I hit something slippery at about the 60' mark and the car spun hard and then gripped, if not I'm sure it would have still been going.

Bias plies help immensely with keeping the drivetrain together.
 
I made 600awhp, and well in the 400's torque wise on a completely stock drivetrain except for clutch kit. I did have solid bushings in and all that. A lot of times worn out old bushings allowing things to move, flex, hop around during a launch is what causes things to break down there. You can check my build in my signature of my old DSM which is the one I'm referring to. I never tracked the car, but I did launch it often on the streets and never broke anything. Also it depends on you, pop the clutch and you'll have issues. Try not to shock the drivetrain too much.
 
You might be surprised at how much more power you can put thru a given drivetrain when you have control over the "hit" of the clutch. Adding a clutch hit controller basically gives you a consistent way to adjust how long the clutch slips after launch. The longer that clutch slip time is stretched out, the softer the hit will be. That softer clutch hit allows raising launch rpm, which also makes more stored energy available for the launch.

With an automatic, one of the most important aspects of a good 60' is choosing the right converter. With a manual trans, you get there by controlling the hit of the clutch. The downside to a converter is that a proper converter for a current combo may not work well at future power levels. Put a hit controller on an overkill clutch, then that overkill clutch will likely work for both your current combo and most future power upgrades.

I call my new clutch hit controller the Hitmaster. Much like the Magnus Launch Control unit, it's also plumbed into the hydraulic system and can easily be set up to be active on launch only. Unlike the Magnus unit, the Hitmaster's soft hit is instant as soon as you release the clutch pedal without any sort of hydraulic restriction delay. After that instant soft clutch hit, a timer ensures that the clutch doesn't slip any longer than necessary.

Grant
 
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