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GVR-4 4g63 won’t start after rebuild

Everest2356

Probationary Member
4
0
Jun 30, 2022
Little Canada, Minnesota
Hello I have a 1992 galant vr4 that I am rebuilding the engine in. The previous owner messed up the timing and put a valve through a piston so I ended up pulling it all apart putting in new pistons and bearings and a new head with upgraded valves and valve springs. And I’m trying to get it to start but it just turns over, backfires through the exhaust and still won’t start. Any ideas?
 

pauleyman

DSM Wiseman
8,130
2,693
Nov 19, 2011
oklahoma city, Oklahoma
Hello I have a 1992 galant vr4 that I am rebuilding the engine in. The previous owner messed up the timing and put a valve through a piston so I ended up pulling it all apart putting in new pistons and bearings and a new head with upgraded valves and valve springs. And I’m trying to get it to start but it just turns over, backfires through the exhaust and still won’t start. Any ideas?
Are you sure mechanical timing is correct?
 

Everest2356

Probationary Member
4
0
Jun 30, 2022
Little Canada, Minnesota
Make sure firing order is correct and that the cas is oriented properly.

This is gonna sound like a dumb question but how would I check the firing order is correct on the coil? And what do I align the cam angle sensor with?

Are you sure mechanical timing is correct?

Yes as far as I know it is correct
 
Last edited by a moderator:

pauleyman

DSM Wiseman
8,130
2,693
Nov 19, 2011
oklahoma city, Oklahoma
This is gonna sound like a dumb question but how would I check the firing order is correct on the coil? And what do I align the cam angle sensor with?
The firing order left to right on the coils is 4123. The motor is 4321 starting from the passenger side. So number 1 is next to motor mount.
CAS won't cause car to not start or backfire so that isn't it even if it is wrong. There is a mark on the CAS tab that orients with the intake cam.
 

TK's9d2TSi

Supporting Member
6,462
3,403
Sep 11, 2017
Cincinnati, Ohio
CAS won't cause car to not start or backfire so that isn't it even if it is wrong. There is a mark on the CAS tab that orients with the intake cam.
Are you sure about this? That’s exactly what happened when I didn’t know about aligning it. Plus, doesn’t spark and injector pulse come from cas?

@Everest2356 Put #1 cylinder to tdc, remove the cas and align the marks. Then install to about middle of range. Once you get it started, you’ll have to set timing with timing light.
 

pauleyman

DSM Wiseman
8,130
2,693
Nov 19, 2011
oklahoma city, Oklahoma

TK's9d2TSi

Supporting Member
6,462
3,403
Sep 11, 2017
Cincinnati, Ohio

pauleyman

DSM Wiseman
8,130
2,693
Nov 19, 2011
oklahoma city, Oklahoma
Idk why, some say it makes no difference, some say it doesn’t start and some say it starts but has no power. There’s a clear procedure in fsm along with marks on the cas so why wouldn’t you set it properly?

I see spark won’t matter but won’t injector pulse be off?
You didn't read the thread
 

TK's9d2TSi

Supporting Member
6,462
3,403
Sep 11, 2017
Cincinnati, Ohio
You didn't read the thread
I read the thread twice. One post said it didn’t start. Another said it started way better. Again, mine didn’t start. Crank multiple times then backfired. Correctly installed the cas and it fired right up so I that thread is mean less as far as I’m concerned. Absolutely no reason for me to make this up.
 
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1990TSIAWDTALON

Moderator
9,290
5,085
Nov 14, 2013
Independence, Kansas
Just make sure the CAS is like THIS. It would run either way but not the best if out of phase. Check the firing order for sure.
 

1cleangsx

Proven Member
681
556
Sep 28, 2013
Cheyenne, Wyoming
Kinda sounds like my fresh rebuild when I went to start it and it wouldn’t idle on its own, it would backfire out the exhaust when trying to start it, did a compression test and had ZERO compression on #1 cylinder, found out I had 2 bent intake valves from improper head installation. Basically I timed up the crank, or in other words brought up #1 piston to TDC before setting the cam gear marks and inserting the plastic piece to the cam gears, so those 2 valves were barely sticking out, I also remember the head wasn’t seated flush until I torqued it down, hopefully this isn’t your problem, just thought I’d throw it out because it looks you rebuilt the motor and when you mentioned “backfire” that’s what mine did. Good luck to you.
 
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Everest2356

Probationary Member
4
0
Jun 30, 2022
Little Canada, Minnesota
Thank you all for the information. I fixed the cas and fixed the firing order. Now the motor just turns over and doesn't do anything, double check that there's gas in it but still not getting anything. Any other ideas I've checked everything I can think of.
Thanks
 

TK's9d2TSi

Supporting Member
6,462
3,403
Sep 11, 2017
Cincinnati, Ohio
Think you said mechanical timing is correct. Pull the plugs and check for spark. While you’re cranking, also verify the fuel pump is turning on while it’s cranking. If all is good, put plugs back in, put some starting fluid or brake cleaner in intake manifold from pcv or brake booster port. See if that starts it. You should know why it’s not starting by this point.
 

curt-s

Proven Member
1,548
312
Dec 21, 2008
Winnipeg, MB_Canada
Are you certain you are getting fuel? From all the cranking you have done you should be able to smell or see fuel on all the spark plugs
Is it not even trying to catch and fire? If not, there is an entire missing component. Even if you were severely out of phase, the spark would still ignite the fuel vapour in thr cylinder and you would hear it either working for you (ignite late on downstroke) or against you (ignite early on up stroke) causing a sudden load on the starter.
Retrace every electrical connection and check your fuses.
 

Everest2356

Probationary Member
4
0
Jun 30, 2022
Little Canada, Minnesota
Are you certain you are getting fuel? From all the cranking you have done you should be able to smell or see fuel on all the spark plugs
Is it not even trying to catch and fire? If not, there is an entire missing component. Even if you were severely out of phase, the spark would still ignite the fuel vapour in thr cylinder and you would hear it either working for you (ignite late on downstroke) or against you (ignite early on up stroke) causing a sudden load on the starter.
Retrace every electrical connection and check your fuses.
I first checked for spark and was good all around then checked the fuel pump which was good as far as I can tell (pulled the line and then turned it over and fuel came out) then checked the fuel rail for fuel which seemed good, so I tried starting it and even putting brake cleaner in the intake and I got nothing. So I pulled the fuel rail off and took a look at all the injectors which all seemed good, put it back on and still nothing. I did pull the spark plugs to check for spark and they had what smelled like some fuel on them but was also dark and kind of seemed like oil, any ideas on what any of the problems could be?
 

pauleyman

DSM Wiseman
8,130
2,693
Nov 19, 2011
oklahoma city, Oklahoma
You've sort of gone halfway. Fuel in the rail does not mean fuel in the engine. Check injector pulses. Listen for then or get some noid lights. If you want to artificially inject fuel use starting fluid. If it wont light on ether you have no spark or something mechanically wrong.
 

TK's9d2TSi

Supporting Member
6,462
3,403
Sep 11, 2017
Cincinnati, Ohio

Since you tried starting with brake cleaner, I feel like it’s not fuel related.
There’s only a few things left. Idk if gallant are the same as 1g’s but does the cel should come on for a few seconds and turn off when key is turned to on position? Also, boost gauge should move to zero. If it doesn’t, it’s an ecu issue.

Test coolant temp sensor.
Do a compression test.
Verify mechanical timing.
 
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