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4g63 engine pick

7-bolt or 6-bolt 4g63, with or no Mods.


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cool that works too... use stock pistons works... You did it so can I.
will upgrade with pistons and will also put squirter's in too because I'm thinking about adding some NOS
any one have a picture of the block on turbo motor squirter's???
need and idea of what goes on with all that.
I guess there are few to do this kind of thing to a N/A block, but I will share my story with you guys...

THANKS ALL
DSM:dsm::laser::thumb:
 
Not to be rude or anything,
But If you have done your research you are correct. But the frame is different, and its a Sub-Frame that Drops out and the AWD sub frame WILL Bolt in.
Have looked at both set ups and this is right.
Modifcation to the Exhaust mounts and also the drive line brace is the only needed Fab.
New take bolts to the sub frame and all that is gravey.

Right People?
Still dont beleive?
take a Look under a FWD and tell me if you see two Tunnels for the exhaust and drive line.
Looked way into that before I would say it.

It can be done, pain in ass Factor. YES!!!!:thumb:

I have the 1990 FSM right here..

Actually I'm talking about doing it right, and if you own a DSM it should be about doing it right and taking pride in it. Do your research first. The unibody is different, not just the obvious rear subframes. Doesn't the spare popping out of the trunk give you any hint that there's no more space for the AWD rear suspension to fit so they had to put the spare ontop?

If you were going to make a 1990 AWD laser then you would have to take the while rear trunk pan from an AWD and weld it in. Also the rear floor side member needs to be chopped out and welded in with an AWD one. Then you add the driveshaft brackets in the center and the rear crossmember will bolt up. If I do recall, the rear FWD lateral arm is welded to the car for strength so that had to be hacked off also. My friend had the problem where it rusted out and that arm fell making his car very unstable. So if you're able to keep the car square after the trunk pan and side members are out, keep the structural rigidity of the car, clean up all of your welds, seam seal the inside of the trunk, then professionally get all the dings and scratches out that you left behind, paint the inside to match the car, then by all means.
 
posted last night maybe it got deleted?? anyway i'm in the phoenix area and have some parts if you need anything pm me we can discuss it there. So how long have you been going to uti? is this your first dsm?

NO SELLING IN THE FORUMS DO IT IN THE CLASSIFIEDS THATS WHY YOUR POST GOT DELETED!!!
 
I have the 1990 FSM right here..

Actually I'm talking about doing it right, and if you own a DSM it should be about doing it right and taking pride in it. Do your research first. The unibody is different, not just the obvious rear subframes. Doesn't the spare popping out of the trunk give you any hint that there's no more space for the AWD rear suspension to fit so they had to put the spare ontop?

If you were going to make a 1990 AWD laser then you would have to take the while rear trunk pan from an AWD and weld it in. Also the rear floor side member needs to be chopped out and welded in with an AWD one. Then you add the driveshaft brackets in the center and the rear crossmember will bolt up. If I do recall, the rear FWD lateral arm is welded to the car for strength so that had to be hacked off also. My friend had the problem where it rusted out and that arm fell making his car very unstable. So if you're able to keep the car square after the trunk pan and side members are out, keep the structural rigidity of the car, clean up all of your welds, seam seal the inside of the trunk, then professionally get all the dings and scratches out that you left behind, paint the inside to match the car, then by all means.

Or instead of all that just get a fuel cell:sneaky:
 
That wasnt the point of this post though...
I get what your saying I have two dsm's here... one fwd and one awd
checked them out pretty good... And still didnt see what your talking about with the "trunk"
..
that was a Idea on my laser,
Becasue of what i know.. to make two tunnels under the car for no reason and then change the rear section is just ridiculous.
Same thing with the turbo and non turbo engines... its two expensive for them to make 2 different kinds. so instead you have sub frames.
I saw the hump for the tire deal on a FWD.
Looks like a sub frame piece to me...
>>???>>
looked fast though...

any way
Transmissions for the engine is my next concern
thanks any way though
and yes right way first is the only way:rocks:
 
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