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4g63 7 bolt engine

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microgalant

15+ Year Contributor
112
0
Aug 27, 2006
Aruba, South_America
My friend bought a 7 bolt jdm 4g63 engine.
How can we be sure, if the engine is a evo 3 engine or a 2gen engine?
And does the jdm 7 bols 4g63 gets crankwalk?
 
A 6 bolt swap is in no way an answer to crankwalk. yes, it was a design error on Mitsubishi's part, but look at its construction. Weren't the 6 blots only made for a couple years? Out of 1.1 million DSM's, with that tiny production amount of the 6 blot, of corse you wont see as many with problems, because there weren't as many. Keep your oil clean,and perform simple routine maintenance, and your 7 bolt will take care of you. Also, compare these cars to.... say, a saturn vue. yes its GM junk but still.... when you buy one from someone, they're probably the only owner or second owner. Almost everyone I see that owns a DSM is a younger person, who drives, well to be honest,like a bad out of hell, and it's obvious the car isn't taken care of. So put in a nut shell, DSM=fast car, appeals to younger people with less money (for the maintenance they'd need from the extra abuse, and then wondering why the car breaks after beating it up for months). Also I've found it rare to find a one owner DSM. My eclipse (almost running ^.^) I am the 7th owner of this car.... meaning I have to fix a lot of cheap,half-assed,ricey, mods/work

In theory any engine crankwalk, look at the new K-series.... full girdle, you'd break a crank before walking it

and if your REALLY that worried about crankwalk... get a rotary, 4 moving parts... lot less chance of breakage
 
A 6 bolt swap is in no way an answer to crankwalk. yes, it was a design error on Mitsubishi's part, but look at its construction. Weren't the 6 blots only made for a couple years? Out of 1.1 million DSM's, with that tiny production amount of the 6 blot, of corse you wont see as many with problems, because there weren't as many. Keep your oil clean,and perform simple routine maintenance, and your 7 bolt will take care of you. Also, compare these cars to.... say, a saturn vue. yes its GM junk but still.... when you buy one from someone, they're probably the only owner or second owner. Almost everyone I see that owns a DSM is a younger person, who drives, well to be honest,like a bad out of hell, and it's obvious the car isn't taken care of. So put in a nut shell, DSM=fast car, appeals to younger people with less money (for the maintenance they'd need from the extra abuse, and then wondering why the car breaks after beating it up for months). Also I've found it rare to find a one owner DSM. My eclipse (almost running ^.^) I am the 7th owner of this car.... meaning I have to fix a lot of cheap,half-assed,ricey, mods/work

In theory any engine crankwalk, look at the new K-series.... full girdle, you'd break a crank before walking it

and if your REALLY that worried about crankwalk... get a rotary, 4 moving parts... lot less chance of breakage
I was only counting 2gs, if you count 1gs then you have a lot more than 1.1 million.
 
Crankwalk schmankwalk.

I bought a 1995 Eagle Talon TSI knowing of all these rumors and myths. I also am finishing my last semester of auto tech and im a full time tech down at a local ford dealership.

After going through the whole class getting my ASE certifications, i can honestly, and truthfully say that it really is an issue i would be less worried about then most of the other things on a DSM breaking. My teacher whom mind you has been master certified for 30 years helped me check mine. All is well ticking at 120k. I hardly beat on it as its a DD and a fun car.

And if you want a REALLY fun piece of info we had a 1997 GT Mustang come into the dealership (guy has bank.)

Blown out the a$$, making almost 600rwhp. And guess what, the damn car crank walked. So it's not just prone to us. Anyone can do it. It's just DSM's have gained this reputation and stayed with it sadly, just like FD RX-7's are known for being highly unreliable, Civics are known for running on less then a quart of oil, and ford has one of the best rear diffs.

Some people can't let things die. As for the EVO III specs im not sure. I just wanted to let some input on crank walk.
 
Thats because your a 420a:thumb:


Actually most m/t 420as have thrust bearing failure (crankwalk). Most 420a owners are stumped when their p/s belts keep popping off and they've changed the pulley and pump several times.

The majority that have been torn apart have shown excessive thrust bearing wear with a decent ammount of crank end play. So when you shift at high rpms your crank is 'walking' a lot more and voila no more accessory belts.

However, unless you're driving it normally and not shifting to redline your p/s belt wont pop off.


To the OP: make sure your clutch is adjusted properly. Don't keep the clutch pedal pressed in at stop lights, just sit in neutral.

To all 2g 7 bolt owners: if your motor has more than 120K miles on it it probably should've walked already if it was going to.

Also I'm not 100% sure but didn't Evo III pistons have higher compression? 9:1 I believe? Maybe 8.8:1? Like the rest of the Evos....
 
i have a 98 gst and im at 127k, and no signs of C-Walk. but i have had to replace the clutch because my brother had the car before me and he had told me that he had run it hard. BUT NO CRANKWALK (thankfully). i am considering getting a stock rebuilt 7 bolt and my clutch switch is disconnected. should i get the 7 bolt, i dont want to deal with the swap and i dont have the money? any imput?WTF
 
Do some research on the subject. There are alot of theories about crankwalk and causes. fstfct, true about all engines are capable of it occuring. My 95 talon did it. sealed factory engine 140k stock flywheel and clutch and not alot over stock power and the car was adult owned its entire life. Why did it fail? I was unlucky? There is always a cause to a problem and you just have to do the best to eliminate the possibilities.

there have been discussions and research about oil spuirters sticking open and starving the thrust bearing( the feed to the squirters comes directly off the main bearings in 2g), A push start could turn the crank on the thrust with no oil for a sec and at intial start up (guys eliminate the clutch safety switch to eliminate the possibility), faulty parts/design problems (mits did redesign the thrust after 95-96), rebuilt by ??? did they really spec the engine out, cleanliness of the build, didn't prime the oil pump and caused intial damage. low oil, machining wrong, lots of possibilities and its ok to look at them and attempt to solve them.

I do get your point about it wasn't many that did and people talk like if its 7 bolt it will walk. I think if you take measures for known possible problems then you should be fine.

If I rebuilt my 7 bolt I would squirter elimination and go forged pistons. See about the updated bearing. safety switch eliminate, check the crank and clearances very closely. All insurance.
 
for now i really dont want to deal with the swap. its my only car for now so i just want to get it running right, because the coolant system is messed up and my head gasket is done. so for now im just gonna stick with the 7 bolt and take a chance and take super good care of it, then when i get a second car ill drop some serious money into it with the swap and a tune and bigger turbo, and many more. its just a process. thanks for everyones input. :thumb:

overall i want the 6 bolt but with the troubles and parts i need for the swap i just cant deal it with now :banghead:

my 7 bolt in the car now is at the 127k mark with no problems, so i just need to hope the new one stays in the same shape:pray:
 
A lot of people have this idea that their engines come from a evo 3 but are sadly mistaken, they actually come out of an RVR including a lot of the transmissions.

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I wouldn't worry about crankwalk. If it walks, it walks, if it doesn't, good for you. Seriously though, the chances of you have other problems are much more likely. I was a little scared about crankwalk at first, but then my transmission went (auto). I was like, "Phew, at least there's no CW". Then I am like, "Wait a minute, I need a new tranny!!" See what a dumb@$$ I was?

Anyway, I've had 3 2gs, a 95, 97, and a 98, and none have crankwalked, the cars had 80K, 141K, and 119K respectively.
 
Ok so I keep on hearing these stories of crank walk I just checked out my oil pan to find out my swap is actually a 7 bolt, what is crank walk exactly?
 
The thrust bearing in 7 bolt motors gets worn on the sides that hold the crank in place allowing it to move forward and backward during rotation. That is what "crankwalk" is. Usually from a performance clutch pressure plate that has a high clamping force and is much stiffer to push in on the pedal. When you first start your car with your foot on the clutch and there is no oil to lube the bearing it wears down. A lot of people make it so you can start the car without pushing in on the clutch, but that can be dangerous.
 
Ok so I keep on hearing these stories of crank walk I just checked out my oil pan to find out my swap is actually a 7 bolt, what is crank walk exactly?

It's when the Crank shaft moves forward and back out of specs.

Use the Search. To get more in depth information.
 
I know this is a little late in the discussion, but here is my experience with crankwalk. Back in 1995 I bought my 95' GSX new. Great car, no mods other than installing bigger tires and more importantly, no problems. Yes the typical issues here and there. A/C compressor around 95K, clutch (stock) at 130K, one axel around 140K, all replaced with stock parts. At around 10 years (195K), NO problems! I decided to keep the car and purchased another daily driver. Long story short, I started on my mission to rebuild and enhance. At that time my 7 bolt was rebuilt (all new HP internals) 3" SS exhaust, the head redone, FMIC along with a HP clutch. After about 3,500 miles crankwalk reared it's ugly head! After extensive research online there was one cause that made sense to me that "may" have caused the crankwalk. As mentioned earlier, oiling the bearings was altered for the seven bolt. I have a tendency when I drive, I keep the clutch depressed while at red lights for example. How this was explained to me by one of my resources is that with the updated oiling of the crank bearings for the 7 bolt, with a new HP clutch (greater pressure on the bearings) the reduced oiling capacity during idle WITH the HP clutch depressed, there was not enough oiling of the thrust bearing. Hence, premature wear and tear on the thrust bearing.
Ended up finding a 6 bolt, trucked the car out to Buscher's in Ohio for a stage 2 rebuild. Later I had the transmission (Shep stage 2) done and various other mods and today I'm sitting at 408 hp/ 373 trq at the wheels (Mustang dyno). At 228 K she is running great. Just gotta get a paint job. That is my experience with crankwalk. I am not sure if MY explanation is correct, but my 6 bolt with the same clutch seems to be working fine after 30 K.
 
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