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420a turbo pt2

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jw wrenn

Proven Member
68
0
Jun 11, 2013
Oxford, North_Carolina
OK guys let me start by apologizing for my ignorance on the subject my first time around I've learned a bit on the subject but I have 2 problems what cr pistons to run , I'm gonna build another engine for boost this time.what cr is best for a reliable 300-400 wHP car 8.8:1 or 10.5:1? The engine will be n/a for about a year for a thorough break in ,my second question would a gt35r be a good turbo for this goal?
My parts list: eagle h beam rods , clevite bearings OEM crank Crower 268/268 cams valves springs and retainers SBI lifters and rockers not sure on injectors yet (help there would also be appreciated) the car will be ran on 93 octane.
I used the search but I couldn't personally figure out what I needed thanks in advance
 
If your limited to 93 octane then you need to run lower than 10.5. Personally I would run the 9.6 and never touch anything in the 8 ever again , but that's just me.
 
Is there a forged 9.6 available? All i m finding is 8.8 and 10.5 .
 
Any opinions on the gt35r? And thanks guys[DOUBLEPOST=1415725289][/DOUBLEPOST]Oh and would the 10.5:1 be a reliable (ish) car versus the 8.8? Not gonna be a daily but it will be drove a good amount
 
Woulan aem piggy back be sufficient for 10.5 :1 ? If not would it work for 8.8:1? I have strict emissions to pass in my county is why I ask[DOUBLEPOST=1415812577][/DOUBLEPOST]Also with my goal being 300-350 ish whp my tune could be quite conservative correct?
 
Yes aem is good for that . Emissions are another reason why you should stick with 10.5 cr (cleaner burn, better gas mileage ) .If you only shooting for 300-350 whp than gt30r would be more fan .
 
With the proper tune & supporting mods (intercooler) you should be able to boost close to 30 psi . I run my 2.3 4g63 10.5 cr 30 psi (no meth inj)& 45 psi ( with meth inj ) The aem controls fuel and spark, so the rest if thinks should be ok .
 
So the aem fic will be fine for 350 ish whp?[DOUBLEPOST=1415985686][/DOUBLEPOST]Iand by how much boost I mean how much to be close to 350whp
 
1)No way to really know how much boost to hit 350whp. I am 10.5:1 CR and running 10psi on an s20g. I know I'm nowhere near 350whp
2)you don't need a FCD/Missing Link if you are running full stand alone
3)I am running Megasquirt1 Extra (Outdated) and it is doing fine. I am only running fuel control and 93octane. No detonation yet.

I like 10.5 CR because off boost the car is so much more responsive.
 
Last edited:
OK I wouldn't need those with the fic either? Seeing as its a piggyback
 
I haven't used the FIC, but it looks like it just modifies the ECU signal for the injectors and ignition. If this is the case then you would still need either and FCD or Missing Link. Since the ECU is still sending the original signal you need a fuel cut defender, otherwise when the ECU sees boost it will cut fuel, and then the FIC will not have a signal to modify and you will still end up with fuel cut.
 
Sorry I'm so late on this reply I've read that an aem ems4 (universal/ pin and play unit) will not work on a 420a can anyone tell me if there's any truth to that.and again thanks everyone for all your help
 
First, I run 8:8 JE pistons and they are great. I was going to try running N/A for a while before boosting but with the low compression pistons it didn't run like I thought it would. I started out boosting low 5psi and worked my way up. Megasquirt or Portfueler are your best tuning options for the 420a motor, my $.2. Also the missing link fails after a while, go with FCD.
 
First, I run 8:8 JE pistons and they are great. I was going to try running N/A for a while before boosting but with the low compression pistons it didn't run like I thought it would. I started out boosting low 5psi and worked my way up. Megasquirt or Portfueler are your best tuning options for the 420a motor, my $.2. Also the missing link fails after a while, go with FCD.

When you say FCD, what do you mean?
 
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