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420A 420A 16G Turbo Build Guide Request

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MrMitsubishi

Probationary Member
11
0
Nov 16, 2022
Minot, North_Dakota
So, I'm having a 420A Engine Rebuilt and Crankshaft Reconditioned and Polished by a local machanic.

I was wondering what you guys could recommend for a 420A 16G Turbo Build. My power goal is 300-350HP.

We have ordered OEM+ or OEM Upgraded Reconditioned/Revised parts. We already have my Brand New Mushimoto Radiator, Radiator Hoses and Fan Shroad Set and ordering ARP Headstuds and i am about to choose between a stage 2 or Stage 1 Brian Crower Twin cam set. I'm about $2400 invested in my 420A. This week he is getting my 2.0L Machined & My crankshaft Machined and polished.

We plan on running Megasquart as the ECU. I'm also gonna replace all 4 Coilovers & Struts with BC Racing BR Type. I know people clown the 420A but, I'm looking for recommendations to Turbo a 420A correctly. I work two jobs and make over 2500+ after taxes pulling 120 hours ever two weeks. My last check was 85 hours and $1344 before taxes.

I don't plan on getting married or having a girlfriend my main focus is making money and funding my project cars. That's really all I need in life and I'm content with that.

Thank you and have a awesome day..
 
To boost a 420a and be reliable at anything over 7psi you'll need aftermarket pistons and H-Beam rods. The factory rods are very weak in the 420a and the pistons are as well. Hopefully you haven't already sent your block to the machine shop to be rebuilt without having these.

As far as cams you need to decide that based off of if you are wanting the car to be street driven or a full blown racecar. Stage 2 cams are still street-able but you'll need to have aftermarket valve springs. The stage 1 I would still recommend aftermarket springs but you can get away with stock ones. If you are going for a full blown racecar might as well get bigger than stage 2 since you have to get valve springs anyways.

If you want to run Megasquirt you will have a hard time getting support from this community because unfortunately almost nobody here uses it. Since the 420a Eclipse is a Dodge Neon based car you may be able to find some tuning information on Neon forums like neons.org I know guys on there ran Megasquirt but the forum itself is pretty much dead. Another option is to contact modern performance and see if they can flash your PCM with a turbo tune for you. They mainly deal with dodge neon stuff but since the 420a Eclipse is based on the Neon engine/trans/pcm they may be able to help you.

@BLACK'98DSM May be able to help you with tuning as well. He has a really nice 420a car that is modded but not turbo so I am not sure if he has had to deal with how to tune the car or not. Hopefully he has some insight
 
When you mentioned reprogramming from Modern Performance it got me intrigued. It's been word of the wise for many years that the 420a ECU's are not reprogrammable. Besides by a special Chrysler software, which isn't known to have been replicated.

The Neon ECU was quite a bit different, from the way it's built to the stock maps. Keep in mind their mounting points were completely different and so were the connectors, meaning the whole assembly is different. And their engines had valve timing 180 degrees opposite of the Eclipse. I do still wonder though, if those can be reprogrammed then so could ours? It's worth reaching out to them to see. If that's the case we would have a valuable piece of information for the N/T community.

My personal opinion is that an MS3 is still the best option for tuning our cars. You can make adjustments from the convenience of you own computer and not have to rely on sending it out to get reprogrammed. That's what I have for my car now. I can't say much about technical support yet because I haven't needed much assistance at the current point.
 
When you mentioned reprogramming from Modern Performance it got me intrigued.

It may be only the 95 year because they are specific to 95 but I know they can be interchanged because I had a bad PCM in my 95 Eclipse and I ended up grabbing a 2.0 DOHC Neon PCM from the junkyard and put it in and had no issues other than having to change the mounting bracket for the PCM. (Although the fuel maps and timing ect. could be different) It was on a car that was 2.4 swapped with larger injectors and the fuel pressure was bumped up so a lot of variables there, but the wideband readings stayed the same so I would think the fuel maps have to be close. Hopefully other years can interchange as well to open up more performance options for a limited platform but I can't verify either way on anything other than a 95

Since you have a 420a running on MS3 I would say that would be the best way to go for the OP. Even with different end goals for the cars you'd still be someone that could help with getting the car running originally and then tune from there which is what seems to be the biggest struggle normally.
 
It may be only the 95 year because they are specific to 95 but I know they can be interchanged because I had a bad PCM in my 95 eclipse and I ended up grabbing a 2.0 DOHC neon PCM from the junkyard and put it in and had no issues other than having to change the mounting bracket for the PCM. (Although the fuel maps and timing ect. could be different) It was on a car that was 2.4 swapped with larger injectors and the fuel pressure was bumped up so a lot of variables there, but the wideband readings stayed the same so I would think the fuel maps have to be close. Hopefully other years can interchange as well to open up more performance options for a limited platform but I can't verify either way on anything other than a 95

Since you have a 420a running on MS3 I would say that would be the best way to go for the OP. Even with different end goals for the cars you'd still be someone that could help with getting the car running originally and then tune from there which is what seems to be the biggest struggle normally.

Don't forget that the 2.4L has the same valve timing as the Neon 2.0.
If the ECU was a direct swap then everyone with a modded N/T would be using the Mopar Performance ECU from the 97 & 98 Neon R/T, due to it's much better ignition timing
 
It may be only the 95 year because they are specific to 95 but I know they can be interchanged because I had a bad PCM in my 95 eclipse and I ended up grabbing a 2.0 DOHC neon PCM from the junkyard and put it in and had no issues other than having to change the mounting bracket for the PCM. (Although the fuel maps and timing ect. could be different) It was on a car that was 2.4 swapped with larger injectors and the fuel pressure was bumped up so a lot of variables there, but the wideband readings stayed the same so I would think the fuel maps have to be close. Hopefully other years can interchange as well to open up more performance options for a limited platform but I can't verify either way on anything other than a 95

Since you have a 420a running on MS3 I would say that would be the best way to go for the OP. Even with different end goals for the cars you'd still be someone that could help with getting the car running originally and then tune from there which is what seems to be the biggest struggle normally.

Got a link to a MS3? The guy who's rebuilding my 420A is familiar with Megasquart. So, that's why we went with that and the parts he is getting is better the OEM. It's OEM+ Reconditioned & Revised Parts. So, those parts he's ordering should handle 350HP pretty easily.
 
I'm not sure what "reconditioned and revised" means exactly but I can tell you that pistons designed for a 420a will not hold up at 350hp unless they're forged. Even on OEM replacement cast pistons the ring lands are very weak, especially under boost. Hopefully your mechanic is getting some JE forged pistons or Wiseco.

I purchased my MS3 from here
 
Even on OEM replacement cast pistons the ring lands are very weak, especially under boost.

This is very true. Have my dads 420a piston and rod combo with ring lands blown out on the intake side with 8 psi at the time screwed to the wall and use it to store extension cords now.

If you are going to turbo the 420a my dad and I opened up the ends of the piston ring end gaps a little also on the rebuild after the ring land blow out.

-Daniel
 
This is very true. Have my dads 420a piston and rod combo with ring lands blown out on the intake side with 8 psi at the time screwed to the wall and use it to store extension cords now.

If you are going to turbo the 420a my dad and I opened up the ends of the piston ring end gaps a little also on the rebuild after the ring land blow out.

-Daniel
Would Eagle H-Beams 420A be alright

 
So, I'm having a 420A Engine Rebuilt and Crankshaft Reconditioned and Polished by a local machanic.

I was wondering what you guys could recommend for a 420A 16G Turbo Build. My power goal is 300-350HP.

We have ordered OEM+ or OEM Upgraded Reconditioned/Revised parts. We already have my Brand New Mushimoto Radiator, Radiator Hoses and Fan Shroad Set and ordering ARP Headstuds and i am about to choose between a stage 2 or Stage 1 Brian Crower Twin cam set. I'm about $2400 invested in my 420A. This week he is getting my 2.0L Machined & My crankshaft Machined and polished.

We plan on running Megasquart as the ECU. I'm also gonna replace all 4 Coilovers & Struts with BC Racing BR Type. I know people clown the 420A but, I'm looking for recommendations to Turbo a 420A correctly. I work two jobs and make over 2500+ after taxes pulling 120 hours ever two weeks. My last check was 85 hours and $1344 before taxes.

I don't plan on getting married or having a girlfriend my main focus is making money and funding my project cars. That's really all I need in life and I'm content with that.

Thank you and have a awesome day..
My kinda guy right there! You sound like you have your ish together and have goals, and will probably have a great chance at achieving them. So what exactly is your question? It looks like you already bought most of the major parts for the engine, I would have recommended a set of forged pistons and forged rods to go along with the build and as much ARP hardware as you can buy for the 420a.
 
My kinda guy right there! you sound like you have your ish together and have goals, and will probably have a great chance at achieving them. So what exactly is your question?

Brandon Weltikol from Autoworks Performance & Repair. A local shop that just started up in Minot ND. I hired him for my project and he gave me a deal that he could charge me less then the almost 5 Star Shop charging me 5K to do a engine rebuild. He's not even charging me labor to do my car which is awesome. So, supporting a local tuner is what I call it.

He mainly ordered OEM+ (Revised & Improved) parts and he said that the parts he ordered should handle 350HP fine. But, we already have the entire Mushimoto Kit so, my radiator is good. I'm going with Gloshift as my gauges. I'm thinking about going with Eagle H Beam Rods & Crower Stage 2 420A Twin Cams because I want to be able to boost at least 25 PSI. We are gonna use Megasquirt as the ECU or imma talk to him about MS3. He's more familiar with Megasquirt.

I'm asking what more parts you guys can recommend for my 420A. So, I build a pretty reliable boosted 350HP 420A.

When you find me the parts to recommend can you drop a link to them so, I can get them ordered instead of searching Google for hours.

Those would be ok for your goal.

Are those the correct ones for my 2.0L 420A and can handle boosting more then 7 PSI?

The website doesn't list the Eclipse 95-99 on the this product fits page. So, wanna make sure these are compatible. Unless you can do me a favor and find me perfect Eagle Rods or aftermarket Rods for my 420A?
 
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Is the car sentimental or special in some way? Just trying to be different?

Nothing wrong with any of that. Just curious why not daily drive the fwd non turbo and save some of that bank for a GSX project?

It’s my opinion that goals like you have listed seem better suited for the awd 4g63 platform.
 
Are those the correct ones for my 2.0L 420A and can handle boosting more then 7 PSI?

The website doesn't list the Eclipse 95-99 on the this product fits page. So, wanna make sure these are compatible. Unless you can do me a favor and find me perfect Eagle Rods or Aftermarket Rods for my 420A?
Yes the rods motomattx listed are the ones you want. They'll be perfect for your goal. You also need to get a set of pistons. JE or Wiseco would be the go-to brands. You'll need to decide what fuel you are going to run the car on. E85 or 110 octane you'll want to go with higher compression pistons. If just running off pump gas 91 or 93 octane you'll want lower compression.

If you are using the stage 2 cams make sure to get some heavier valve springs.

Your builder must not be very familiar with the 420a if he is telling you OEM pistons and rods will be ok to 350 hp so I would be wary of any advice he is giving you. It's pretty common knowledge that 7 psi is the most a stock bottom end can take and thats not going to get you anywhere near 300 HP
 
Is the car sentimental or special in some way? Just trying to be different?

Nothing wrong with any of that. Just curious why not daily drive the fwd non turbo and save some of that bank for a GSX project?

It’s my opinion that goals like you have listed seem better suited for the awd 4g63 platform.
It's my first Eclipse and i was already too invested at this point. That I wanted to build it into a 350HP Turbocharged Eclipse. I don't care if it wasn't a GSX or GS-T. I'd just turn it into one and call it a day. This car is very sentimental and imma stay dedicated to finishing it.

The GS-T and GS use the same chasis so, decided to switch to a GS-T since the only difference that I'm aware of is different engines and engine mounts.

Those would be ok for your goal.
Could you check that link out just to make sure I'm ordering the correct Rods & they be okay or compatible pushing my desired boost. I wanted to push at least 10-15 PSI on a 30 PSI Glo Light boost Gauge.

Just wanna make sure the EAGLE CHRYSLER 2.0L SOHC & DOHC / MITSUBISHI 420A 2.0L ENGINE CONNECTING RODS (SET OF 4) is the correct ones that would work with my 420A

Yes the rods motomattx listed are the ones you want. They'll be perfect for your goal. You also need to get a set of pistons. JE or Wiseco would be the go-to brands. You'll need to decide what fuel you are going to run the car on. E85 or 110 octane you'll want to go with higher compression pistons. If just running off pump gas 91 or 93 octane you'll want lower compression.

If you are using the stage 2 cams make sure to get some heavier valve springs.

Your builder must not be very familiar with the 420a if he is telling you OEM pistons and rods will be ok to 350 hp so I would be wary of any advice he is giving you. It's pretty common knowledge that 7 psi is the most a stock bottom end can take and thats not going to get you anywhere near 300 HP
He didn't list the engine rods to recommend. I just posted one that I wanted to use.

Maybe I can get insight with you.

I wanted to use these engine head complete kit from Wiesco hopefully those are compatible with my 420A


And these are the Rods Choosen!

EAGLE CHRYSLER 2.0L SOHC & DOHC / MITSUBISHI 420A 2.0L ENGINE CONNECTING RODS:


Crower Stage 2 Turbo Grind Camshaft Set 95-99 Eclipse Talon 420A:


Hopefully you can give some recommendations and insight.
 
He didn't list the engine rods to recommend. I just posted one that I wanted to use.

Maybe I can get insight with you.

I wanted to use these engine head complete kit from Wiesco hopefully those are compatible with my 420A


And these are the Rods Choosen!

EAGLE CHRYSLER 2.0L SOHC & DOHC / MITSUBISHI 420A 2.0L ENGINE CONNECTING RODS:


Crower Stage 2 Turbo Grind Camshaft Set 95-99 Eclipse Talon 420A:


Hopefully you can give some recommendations and insight.

- Firstly, yes those rods are fine. Fine for even 500whp. Actually someone is using them in a build that makes over 700whp, but I don't know nearly enough about the build to say they would be reliable at that power level. Anyway,

- Second, yes those pistons are fine. They are forged and tough enough for the job. If you're planning to run pump gas then I would go with the 8.8:1 compression. You can still use the 10.5:1 and retard the ignition timing a bit (using MS3) to run pump gas, but at that point you have negated the gains of raising the compression ratio. Also, and I shouldn't need to say this, but make sure you order the correct bore size. 87.5mm is the factory bore size. Each 0.5mm diameter increase is for an additional .020" over bore. Your mechanic needs to inspect your cylinders before you order pistons. If it will be fine with a fresh hone job then get 87.5mm pistons, if the cylinders get bored .020" over then get 88mm pistons, etc... I'm throwing that out there just in case, but a "mechanic" should already know this. Next.

- Third, go with the N/A grind camshafts. If you review the specs sheet for the N/A stage 2 grind vs turbo stage 2 grind you will see that the N/A grind is actually more aggressive. (it would be a different story for stage 1) Sure, the turbo cams are "designed for turbocharged engines" but you'll make more power being properly tuned on the N/A cams. If the valve timing and overlap were different for the N/A cams then I would say stick with the turbo grind, but the N/A stage 2 cams will work great. And also make sure you're getting a spring and retainer upgrade. You won't get away with stock springs and retainers with stage 2 cams. You'd experience early power drop-off. For my springs and retainers I used kit BC0160 (which are titanium). Search Google for that part number and you can order from your place of choice. They're still heavily produced since they fit multiple different engines.

Another thing I'll add is get some head studs. ARP # 141-1402. They are also readily available from multiple sources. The Eagle rods will usually come with ARP rod bolts so you're fine there.
 
- Firstly, yes those rods are fine. Fine for even 500whp. Actually someone is using them in a build that makes over 700whp, but I don't know nearly enough about the build to say they would be reliable at that power level. Anyway,

- Second, yes those pistons are fine. They are forged and tough enough for the job. If you're planning to run pump gas then I would go with the 8.8:1 compression. You can still use the 10.5:1 and retard the ignition timing a bit (using MS3) to run pump gas, but at that point you have negated the gains of raising the compression ratio. Also, and I shouldn't need to say this, but make sure you order the correct bore size. 87.5mm is the factory bore size. Each 0.5mm diameter increase is for an additional .020" over bore. Your mechanic needs to inspect your cylinders before you order pistons. If it will be fine with a fresh hone job then get 87.5mm pistons, if the cylinders get bored .020" over then get 88mm pistons, etc... I'm throwing that out there just in case, but a "mechanic" should already know this. Next.

- Third, go with the N/A grind camshafts. If you review the specs sheet for the N/A stage 2 grind vs turbo stage 2 grind you will see that the N/A grind is actually more aggressive. (it would be a different story for stage 1) Sure, the turbo cams are "designed for turbocharged engines" but you'll make more power being properly tuned on the N/A cams. If the valve timing and overlap were different for the N/A cams then I would say stick with the turbo grind, but the N/A stage 2 cams will work great. And also make sure you're getting a spring and retainer upgrade. You won't get away with stock springs and retainers with stage 2 cams. You'd experience early power drop-off. For my springs and retainers I used kit BC0160 (which are titanium). Search Google for that part number and you can order from your place of choice. They're still heavily produced since they fit multiple different engines.

Another thing I'll add is get some head studs. ARP # 141-1402. They are also readily available from multiple sources. The Eagle rods will usually come with ARP rod bolts so you're fine there.

So, these are what I'm looking for? If you can link me to the correct stage 2's that be awesome.

 
So, these are what I'm looking for? If you can link me to the correct stage 2's that be awesome.


No those are for a Honda. What you need:

Brian Crower part # BC0166
Crower part # 64462

If I'm not mistaken, production of both of those has been discontinued. But many places still have them in stock. There's a set of Brian Crower stage 2 on Ebay right now.

Something else to note is that "stage 2" are different for each manufacturer. Brian Crower will give the best results. They are 264/264 compared to Crower 241/241.
 
No those are for a Honda. What you need:

Brian Crower part # BC0166
Crower part # 64462

If I'm not mistaken, production of both of those has been discontinued. But many places still have them in stock. There's a set of Brian Crower stage 2 on Ebay right now.

Something else to note is that "stage 2" are different for each manufacturer. Brian Crower will give the best results. They are 264/264 compared to Crower 241/241.
I searched the 64462 and found this one? I can't find a NA like you want me to purchase so, if you could link the one you found that you recommend that be awesome. I'm sure it's gonna be hella expensive since it's ebay unless you find a online shop that has the one I want and link it below.


This is what I'm looking for correct?
 
I searched the 64462 and found this one? I can't find a NA like you want me to purchase so, if you could link the one you found that you recommend that be awesome. I'm sure it's gonna be hella expensive since it's ebay unless you find a online shop that has the one I want and link it below.


This is what I'm looking for correct?

You may be able to find a set cheaper but this is the first result when I searched Google for the Brian Crower part number.

 
You may be able to find a set cheaper but this is the first result when I searched Google for the Brian Crower part number.

Same here! The only one I found was ebay. If you can fins another place that sells a set brand new that be sweet.
 
Same here! The only one I found was ebay. If you can fins another place that sells a set brand new that be sweet.

You probably won't find a set much cheaper than those on Ebay unless you buy them used. That's because when the part got discontinued everybody jacked their prices up. If I were you, I would call Brian Crower customer support and see if you can still order a set and wait for them to get produced. If they can do that, they would probably honor a cheaper price than others but you will have to wait for the backorder to process which can take multiple weeks sometimes. I found on Google their customer support number is (619) 749-9018

But honestly if you don't want to deal with a hefty price or a backorder process you could just try to find and buy a set used. It won't hurt anything as long as the cams are still in good shape. Just look for the lobes to be rounded off, scoring on the cam journals, or broken dowel pins.

And really if needed, I'm confident you could use the Crower stage 2 turbo grind cams and reach your power goals. With enough boost she'll breathe. I'm just telling you what is BEST to run and will make more power easier. Hell there was a member on here making 300+whp on the stock camshafts. The Brian Crower stage 2 BC0166 camshafts just have the best airflow characteristics for a street-able 420a. But you can always use a less aggressive camshaft if needed and counter it with boost.
 
You probably won't find a set much cheaper than those on Ebay unless you buy them used. That's because when the part got discontinued everybody jacked their prices up. If I were you, I would call Brian Crower customer support and see if you can still order a set and wait for them to get produced. If they can do that, they would probably honor a cheaper price than others but you will have to wait for the backorder to process which can take multiple weeks sometimes. I found on Google their customer support number is (619) 749-9018

But honestly if you don't want to deal with a hefty price or a backorder process you could just try to find and buy a set used. It won't hurt anything as long as the cams are still in good shape. Just look for the lobes to be rounded off, scoring on the cam journals, or broken dowel pins.

And really if needed, I'm confident you could use the Crower stage 2 turbo grind cams and reach your power goals. With enough boost she'll breathe. I'm just telling you what is BEST to run and will make more power easier. Hell there was a member on here making 300+whp on the stock camshafts. The Brian Crower stage 2 BC0166 camshafts just have the best airflow characteristics for a street-able 420a. But you can always use a less aggressive camshaft if needed and counter it with boost.
What about Stage One's!

Would these be fine?:
 
What about Stage One's!

Would these be fine?:
I wouldn't bother with stage 1's personally. It's a lot of money for very little gain. At least stage 2. Personally I would go with a stage 3. You pay the same for them whatever stage you get so 3's are the most bang for your buck while still being driveable on the street

EDIT: Actually being crowers the stage 2's would be the best. Stage 3 is their highest lift so the stage 3's would not be streetable. I was thinking of Brian Crower cams which have 5 different stages available if they even make them anymore
 
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So, I'm having a 420A Engine Rebuilt and Crankshaft Reconditioned and Polished by a local machanic.

I was wondering what you guys could recommend for a 420A 16G Turbo Build. My power goal is 300-350HP.

We have ordered OEM+ or OEM Upgraded Reconditioned/Revised parts. We already have my Brand New Mushimoto Radiator, Radiator Hoses and Fan Shroad Set and ordering ARP Headstuds and i am about to choose between a stage 2 or Stage 1 Brian Crower Twin cam set. I'm about $2400 invested in my 420A. This week he is getting my 2.0L Machined & My crankshaft Machined and polished.

We plan on running Megasquart as the ECU. I'm also gonna replace all 4 Coilovers & Struts with BC Racing BR Type. I know people clown the 420A but, I'm looking for recommendations to Turbo a 420A correctly. I work two jobs and make over 2500+ after taxes pulling 120 hours ever two weeks. My last check was 85 hours and $1344 before taxes.

I don't plan on getting married or having a girlfriend my main focus is making money and funding my project cars. That's really all I need in life and I'm content with that.

Thank you and have a awesome day..
I just bought a 96 Stratus with that 420A and 5 speed and I have similar goals but I have a ways to get to doing power stuff for it so.
 
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