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ECMlink 30% combined FT at idle?

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First I would fix your tps, then you need to enable narrowband simulation since your running your AEM wb in the front o2 placement. I would check for boost and exhaust leaks also. You also have a cooling offset of 12 why is this?
 
here is a new log I bumped my deadtime up so my cb ft is in the correct range

the 02 sensor isnt cycleing when I simulate it.
How do I change my cooling offset?
 

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You need to connect the white wire from the wb to your ecu heres how http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-electrical-wiring/383190-1g-2g-aem-uego-wiring.html and make sure like c2yptc said to have narrowband sim for your front o2 IF thats were youy wired it.

Do this first then zero out your dead time, You cannot tune your car without a cycling o2 sensor or narrowband simulator. Once its working you can tune the deadtime yourself or use this baseinjectordata [ECMTuning - wiki] for a starting point.

For your narrowband switch point you can start here v3narrowbandsim [ECMTuning - wiki] and again fine tune yourself to get your average afr at 14.7.

As for cooling offset go to your dash tap in ecu configure and bring it down to 0. If you have no cooling issues (running to cool) which by your log looks ok then you want to leave it at 0.

Searching on here and using the videos will also help you get set up.

ECMTuning, Inc.
 
You need to select the front o2 as your wideband:

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that is subjective to where you pinned your WB into the ECU, mine for instance is in the front 02 position but i tapped the ECU into the Rear 02 pin. so in my case what he did was correct. it could not be cycling because his voltage needs to be adjusted and delay perhapse? for my AEM its at 2.35 volts switch point and 15 seconds delay.
 
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I'm betting he wired it to the pin 76...

I did use the front o2 but when I select it in ecm it just reads a constant .8v
If my aem eugo is captureing my af ratio and plotting it on ecm why would I want to simulate a secound signal wouldent that interfear

my car wont really run with the changes I made
 

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sorry for the misspost.

Can someone explain what I need to do about my o2 sensor?
If I have the output signal cable on the aem hooked into my ecu on the front o2 sensor is this what is being plotted?

when I simulate that am i sending voltage readings to the same input?

I have a baro and ita input I could be useing. I hooked the output on the aem to the baro but it doesnt seem to be loging.

someone please help I am trying to gain an understanding on how this works
 
Like the title says I have a gm maft laying here since I got ecm links cable. This is easily a $150 value and I will ship it to the person that helps me out the most.

Ok here is the situation I am haveing issues with my front o2 not cycleing makeing it impossiable for me to tune I hooked up the blue wire on my aem eugo to my baro input off my ecm maf cable and the white wire to my front 02 sensor so I dont think I need to stimulate my front o2 but I am not sure here is a log of my car not running my o2 is cycleing but it is also causing my wideband to cycle for some reason.

If I get a few people helping me I have a few parts I can give away as well.
I know moderators will not like this but I need help and no one is giveing it maybe some motivation will help solve my issues.

I was messing around with my baro wire my o2 cyles only when that is hooked up I connected it and disconnected it as you can see in this log
 

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Leave the baro wire alone. You can actually lock the baro signal in ecmlink. Also the blue wire on the eugo is serial output for connecting to a computer. Just tape that wire off, you won't use it. You'll want to connect the white wire to the rear o2 input on the ecu(pin 75) and unplug the rear o2(the plug is under driver's seat under the carpet, by the console) Then in ecmlink change the wideband input to the rear o2, and I recommend simulating the narrowband signal. When you do that, you can actually unplug your factory o2. It's not needed anymore. I would recommend running the eugo in the o2 housing. That's how I have mine.

The wideband o2 will hover between 14 and 16. So that's normal
 
Where's the AEM sensor installed? If in the front o2 spot, then yes you need to simulate.

If in the rear o2 (or other bung) then you need to switch what wire you connect the white AEM wire to. You have 2 signals (stock narrowband and AEM wideband) going into one input.

Why do you have the blue wire hooked up? This is for a serial output and I'm sure you're not using that.

Also:

I hooked up the blue wire on my aem eugo to my baro input off my ecm maf cable and the white wire to my front 02 sensor

You stated that yet you're trying to log the AEM unit via the baro input. You do know the white wire from the AEM is the output, correct?

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-electrical-wiring/383190-1g-2g-aem-uego-wiring.html
http://www.schnitzracing.com/manuals/AEMWBK.pdf

Switch the pin assignment in the ECU Inputs tab to the front o2 (assuming that's where it's installed) since you already have narrowband sim setup and you should be better off.
 
I removed the baro input.

My sensor is in the front o2 housing does that change the prosedure you said about unpluging the rear?

I have the white wire on the aem hooked up to my front 02 pin 76
 
I removed the baro input.

My sensor is in the front o2 housing does that change the prosedure you said about unpluging the rear?

I have the white wire on the aem hooked up to my front 02 pin 76

In that case, no need to unplug rear o2. Just set up narrowband simulation, and you should be good to go. No need to hook up anymore inputs, ecmlink will log and do narrowband sim at the same time.
 
yes sir just getting really annoyed with ecm link my car will no longer runs after the adjustments I made

In that case, no need to unplug rear o2. Just set up narrowband simulation, and you should be good to go. No need to hook up anymore inputs, ecmlink will log and do narrowband sim at the same time.

It's not loging or simulateing
 
My next question is are you positive you tapped the white wire from the AEM to pin 76? There are two white wires right next to each other.

Have you also searched on here to find how to set up the voltages and readings for the AEM unit in link via linear wideband, and then performed those steps?


Your AirflowPerRev is ridiculously high, so obviously your idle isn't dialed in properly. You might not be able to get it down to .26 with cams, but it shouldn't be too much higher.

Make sure to go through this list in full. In regards to the high value, focus on step 12, specifically video 8 on that page.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/ecm...97-please-read-before-you-ask-log-advice.html
 
... I need help and no one is giveing it maybe some motivation will help solve my issues.

Even better, try following the directions in this sticky:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/ecm...97-please-read-before-you-ask-log-advice.html

We put that list together for a reason. ;)

Since you either didn't read it or just chose to ignore it, I'll quote part of it for you:

I'll go out on a limb here and speak for most of us that are willing to put our time and effort into helping with your tuning issues: This is a two-way street; if you don't put the effort into holding up your end of the deal and take care of the items mentioned below, don't be surprised if your help suddenly dries up and/or your thread is locked. You've been warned! :)

With that said, here is a list of things that you are responsible for checking and/or fixing, before asking for help with tuning. Please start your post with either verification or numbers (in the case of a compression test for example) for each item, so we can save time and get down to business.

EDIT:

Freakin' ninja mod. LOL
 
My next question is are you positive you tapped the white wire from the AEM to pin 76? There are two white wires right next to each other.

Have you also searched on here to find how to set up the voltages and readings for the AEM unit in link via linear wideband, and then performed those steps?


Your AirflowPerRev is ridiculously high, so obviously your idle isn't dialed in properly. You might not be able to get it down to .26 with cams, but it shouldn't be too much higher.

Make sure to go through this list in full. In regards to the high value, focus on step 12, specifically video 8 on that page.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/ecm...97-please-read-before-you-ask-log-advice.html


I am begging for help that is why I am offering free parts my frends are all out driveing in there fast cars that their parents bought them and I have yet to drive my car that i worked all year for. Im trying to have pride in the whole built not bought thing but I am about to give up

I have watched each video on ecm link about 5 times

If you look at the form that was merged with my car was running somewhat ok I had my linwideband diald in I know how to tune my maf comp but it dies whenever I lower slider is that normal for my o2 sensor to be flat shouldent it go up and down in open loop?
 
When in open loop the o2 is ignored. It is only used in closed loop. In order to be in closed loop the folowwing conditions have to be met.

TPS less than 85%
Coolant temp between 51 and 228F
O2 sensor has to be cycling (in your case the wideband)
 
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I rewired my fuel pump I think it helped I am running rich but as soon as i lower my injector deadtime to compensate for combined fueltrim my car stalls here is the log.
 

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We've linked to the page three times, and even quoted it in this thread....but for some reason it just doesn't seem to be registering with you. So I'll try this just one more time.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/ecm...97-please-read-before-you-ask-log-advice.html

The parts you should be most interested in are highlighted below in bold red:

I'll go out on a limb here and speak for most of us that are willing to put our time and effort into helping with your tuning issues: This is a two-way street; if you don't put the effort into holding up your end of the deal and take care of the items mentioned below, don't be surprised if your help suddenly dries up and/or your thread is locked. You've been warned! :)

With that said, here is a list of things that you are responsible for checking and/or fixing, before asking for help with tuning. Please start your post with either verification or numbers (in the case of a compression test for example) for each item, so we can save time and get down to business.

Just as an FYI, many of the members around here that are very helpful with ECMLink and general tuning questions are going to simply ignore your thread, no matter how much you beg...unless you help us first with this simple request.
 
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