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2G 3 AEM Gauges. Wiring Power Source Question

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DSMStyle2G

Probationary Member
16
5
Jun 24, 2018
South Bend, Indiana
So I'm wiring up my AEM Tru-boost, Wideband, and oil pressure gauges right now on my 2g. I would like to tie all 3 of the power wires together into 1 for the power and do the same with the ground wires.

Initially I was going to do this and use a fuse tap but then found out it will not fit into the fuse box so that ideas a bust. I've been doing research and looking on the forums for where I could get power and I'm thinking of tapping into the cigarette lighter, but I haven't seen where anybody has had all 3 gauges powered by the cigarette lighter all at one time, so is this safe to do so?

Also all of the AEEM gauge instructions recommended 5 amp fuse for each gauge for install. If I tie all of them together and power them through the cigarette lighter the stock 15 amp fuse for the cigarette lighter should be sufficient right? Or do I need to add some 5 amp fuses inline?

I don't ever use the cigarette lighter but wanted to ask before I found out the hard way. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in Advance
 
Last edited:
Solution
Just a quick update, I got everything wired up and it all seems to be working good as of right now.

I ended up looking a bit more into it and started researching other places and found the turbo timer harness was a power point depending on which wire was used. I never even thought about using the turbo timer before but I checked it out and the previous owner used a plug and play harness for it.

I was a bit more comfortable splicing into it for power since I could get another harness for the turbo timer instead of cutting into the stock car wiring. I probed the pins and the blue wire was the accessory wire so I spliced into it and used 3 5amp fusible links (1 for each gauge), tied all the grounds together, put a ring terminal on and...
Of those three the Wideband is going to draw the most current since it has to power the O2 sensor.
I wouldn't connect it with the other two (One 5 A is more than enough for those and another one for the WB). If you look at the FSM electrical manual you can see what switched circuits are available in the fuse/junction box by the drivers footwell.
 
I personally use the blue wire on the cigarette lighter for my gauges. I use both power and ground for the with key on power.

I also use one of the “light” wires for my wideband to dim at night. Can’t say I have drove the car at night for probably a decade now though since she’s not a daily anymore.

For clarity I don’t have a cigarette lighter anymore. The hole has been replaced with a 2 inch hole and has an oil pressure gauge in its place. So I’ve never tried to use the cigarette lighter while the gauges are on.

I like the add a fuse links but you can’t put your cover back on the fuse box unless you either slit it to accept a wire or just pinch it in there. I didn’t want to modify the fuse box cover or run without one.

-Daniel
 
You can always play it safe and run a new circuit. Run a fused power wire from battery to relay in center console or in dash. Have acc wire energize relay coil so power is turned on/off with car.
 
Just a quick update, I got everything wired up and it all seems to be working good as of right now.

I ended up looking a bit more into it and started researching other places and found the turbo timer harness was a power point depending on which wire was used. I never even thought about using the turbo timer before but I checked it out and the previous owner used a plug and play harness for it.

I was a bit more comfortable splicing into it for power since I could get another harness for the turbo timer instead of cutting into the stock car wiring. I probed the pins and the blue wire was the accessory wire so I spliced into it and used 3 5amp fusible links (1 for each gauge), tied all the grounds together, put a ring terminal on and grounded it to the dash with a existing screw.

Everything's working good other than the oil pressure gauge missing segments in the display.But I messaged AEM and they had me do a field destroy with proof and are sending a new display so all is good.

Thanks again for the help guys! It's greatly appreciated
 
Solution
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