The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

  • Join the Community!

    DSMtuners is a massive archive of DSM information - but more importantly, it's a COMMUNITY! Join in and participate with other DSMers, and invite all of your DSM friends to make this place their home. Chat with others, create a build thread, post questions and answers. Get involved! Logging in will also remove many of the advertisements, along with this notice. ;) It will also allow you to view images in threads.

Please Support Fuel Injector Clinic
Please Support ExtremePSI

420A 2gNT high rpm no acceleration

Ethenp23

Proven Member
132
6
Jun 24, 2021
Midland tx, Texas
I have a 95 talon esi (420) and am dealing with this weird rpm hesitation every time I go on a drive it drives fine but when I come to a stop then go it revs all the way up to like 7k and barely acceleration then eventually it gets up to speed what causes this ?
 

Ethenp23

Proven Member
132
6
Jun 24, 2021
Midland tx, Texas

Ethenp23

Proven Member
132
6
Jun 24, 2021
Midland tx, Texas
Well I took it to my buddy and he said it’s a bad transmission and cluch all together.

I really feel like it’s just my shift solenoid but.

Well boys this is probably the end of the road as of DSM ownership for me sadly
 
Last edited by a moderator:

Ethenp23

Proven Member
132
6
Jun 24, 2021
Midland tx, Texas
I'd fix the trans instead of selling it. Or even if you're going to sell it, you should still rebuild the trans. Nobody wants an automatic 2gnt that can't drive home properly, or at least not enough to pay anything decent for it.
I’ve been driving home multiple times with the trans messed up. I can’t afford the trans rebuild at the moment, I’m saving up for a house for my future man.

I won’t sell a car like this to anyone the amount of problems it has put me through is beyond me and I don’t want anyone to have to go through the trouble.
 
Last edited by a moderator:

1990TSIAWDTALON

Moderator
9,146
4,977
Nov 14, 2013
Independence, Kansas
Give that a try man!!!!
Thanks L!
I wish I could help more but I'm the 1g Turbo guy. The guys that are helping are about the best we have here and they are all trustworthy. Just so you know. Good luck for sure!!!
 

Ethenp23

Proven Member
132
6
Jun 24, 2021
Midland tx, Texas
Give that a try man!!!!
Thanks L!
I wish I could help more but I'm the 1g Turbo guy. The guys that are helping are about the best we have here and they are all trustworthy. Just so you know. Good luck for sure!!!
We’re is that fuse located by chance ?
 

1990TSIAWDTALON

Moderator
9,146
4,977
Nov 14, 2013
Independence, Kansas
I am not sure, we will have to have a non-turbo member chime in on that one. Sorry.
@VelocitàPaola , do you happen to know anything about the 420a transmission?
 

VelocitàPaola

Moderator
5,074
161
Jun 14, 2005
Ft. Lauderdale, Florida
I've never owned an A/T 420A, but I'm fairly certain all transmission-related fuses are in the dedicated relay/fuse box in the engine bay. It shouldn't be too hard to track down the right one.
 

Ethenp23

Proven Member
132
6
Jun 24, 2021
Midland tx, Texas
Well I’m back with new questions.

I was coming back from school once again today and pulled into the drive way and decided to scan my car with obd2 WHILE my car is running and 5 codes popped up.

Now listen I replaced my coils 2k ago. I replaced and gapped my spark plugs weeks ago, I replaced 02 sensor 4 weeks ago. It seems that I’m running stupid rich and dumping a lot more fuel into my system and I have been refueling far to often what do you guys think ?

I was going to buy some carb cleaner then get my injectors replaced. And the manufacturer control code I wouldn’t worry about I replaced ecu, camshaft sensor and crankshaft sensor (which fixed my long crank before start)

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.


Maybe all of this was mistaken for a bad tranny….
 
Last edited by a moderator:

pieceofcloth

Supporting Member
372
228
Oct 6, 2019
Houston, Texas
Turn your car off. Turn the key forward. Your check engine light should illuminate. If it does not, your bulb may be out. Old codes can store until erased. If they were never erased after all those parts you put it, then do so by removing battery terminals from battery for a good 20 mins. Your scanner may have an erase feature as well.

CHECK YOUR "CHECK ENGINE" LIGHT FIRST, fix that, erase your codes. And see what happens/drive it around. If your codes pop back up, which they would within a good 15 mins of driving, maybe sooner. Then you need attack what the scanner is telling you to look at.

Search for a Haynes manual (physical book) & factory service manual (within this site) for your vehicle. You NEED this to learn more about your car like location of parts, schematics, simple maintenance, etc and all this information is in those manuals.
 
Last edited by a moderator:

Ethenp23

Proven Member
132
6
Jun 24, 2021
Midland tx, Texas
Which 02 sensor did you replace? The upstream (bank 1) could be bad. When they go bad or lose connection it causes it to run rich. The downstream (bank 2) does not affect how the engine runs.
I didn’t replace the bank 2 I replaced the bank 1 instead, the previous owner did a cat delete and replaced that cat with another 420a resonator
 

BLACK'98DSM

Proven Member
3,507
1,232
Feb 9, 2019
Alabama
The reason you're throwing the code for bank 2 sensor is because you have no catalytic convertor. The only 2 ways to get rid of that code are to install a catalytic convertor or use a spark plug anti-fouler to space out the sensor. I'm not sure if there is room for that on these cars though.

If you still think the injectors are suspect. It's cheaper to buy new or remanufactured ones than it is to get them professionally cleaned and flow tested. You can buy Chinese ones for around $15 each or a better brand for $35-$50 each. Try looking on RockAuto. I've got a couple extra sets laying around as well but I can't verify functionality of any of them.

I would also check the condition of all your grounds and make sure they've got good connections. You'd be surprised how many issues a broken ground strap once caused me
 

Ethenp23

Proven Member
132
6
Jun 24, 2021
Midland tx, Texas
The reason you're throwing the code for bank 2 sensor is because you have no catalytic convertor. The only 2 ways to get rid of that code are to install a catalytic convertor or use a spark plug anti-fouler to space out the sensor. I'm not sure if there is room for that on these cars though.

If you still think the injectors are suspect. It's cheaper to buy new or remanufactured ones than it is to get them professionally cleaned and flow tested. You can buy Chinese ones for around $15 each or a better brand for $35-$50 each. Try looking on RockAuto. I've got a couple extra sets laying around as well but I can't verify functionality of any of them.

I would also check the condition of all your grounds and make sure they've got good connections. You'd be surprised how many issues a broken ground strap once caused me

Okay will do. I’ll check ground points which I’m assuming we only have 2 correct? One that comes from the battery to the fire wall and one that bolts into the ignition coil pack to the fire wall.

As far as injectors, I actually bought some new 5 months ago and never had put them into my car, so getting the fuel injectors in hand isn’t the problem now.

I do hear a slight hissing noise, could that be vacuum leak leading to running rich?
 
Last edited by a moderator:

DirtMcGirt

Probationary Member
24
15
May 6, 2019
Flemington, New_Jersey
I have both a manual 95 GS and an automatic 95 ESI. The auto doesn’t have a second (downstream) o2 sensor. I’m surprised you’re getting a code for it. Do you by chance have a manual ecu installed?

I believe the elc-4 fuse is located in the driver footwell panel.

There are multiple ground points in the engine bay. Below the fuse box and ecu, the intake to firewall strap, battery to strut tower, upper starter bolt, etc…. The factory service manual diagrams their locations.

As far as the shift solenoid, it should have a rectangular wiring harness that plugs into it. That should help identify where it is on the trans.
 

Ethenp23

Proven Member
132
6
Jun 24, 2021
Midland tx, Texas
Where do you think it's leaking from? Vacuum leaks can definitely cause some issues. You can spray the areas you think it's leaking from with starting fluid, if the engine revs up then you found a leak.
I fix 1 vac leak a few days ago. The plastic kinda just melted it’s self shut so thats done but I here the noise mostly coming from the passenger side if the engine bay is there vac line located near there too?
 

Ethenp23

Proven Member
132
6
Jun 24, 2021
Midland tx, Texas
The cruise control servo is on the passenger side towards the firewall. It also has one of those plastic hoses.
So I was inspecting the vac line that I had fixed a few days ago and it was completely melted again so I repaired it with new line and also fed the vac line above the intake to avoid it from melting again
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned VR Speed Factory

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Top