The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support JNZ Tuning
Please Support ExtremePSI

2G 2G Walk Through How To Remove Emissions

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

1995-tsi-awd

Proven Member
131
14
Jul 17, 2013
Fort Worth, Texas
This thread was created to walk through the emissions removal on a 95-96 2g dsm. After reading some of the comments posted on the "How To's" it was apparent that some people are more visual learners rather than reading to one picture/diagram. I pulled my emissions last night and took some pictures while doing so. Hopefully this will aide others in pulling their emissions related components.

Before you get started I highly recommend purchasing a EGR block off plate from ebay unless you can fabricate one yourself. They are $10 with free shipping. I removed my emissions before ordering one and spent more time fabricating one than I hoped for.

Time to complete:
30min (purchased block off plate, not repainting parts)
2hrs (fabricating block off plate, repainting parts)

Things you will need:
Block off plate for EGR - Ebay or fabricated
Cap for intake pipe (not sure on size.. already had one 1/4"?)
4x 1/8" vacuum caps - sold at auto parts store

Things I recommend:
10ft of Vacuum line to replace old line (this stuff is less than $1 per foot)

Let's get started.

So you lift the hood up and you're looking at all those vacuum lines and you're not sure what's what and you don't want to screw things up.

That's ok. We are going to start small and work our way up to the hardest part.

Let's first post an image of the before and after for reference:

Before:
You must be logged in to view this image or video.


After:
You must be logged in to view this image or video.

(turbo, mbc, and wastegate routing could be different on your installation; see step 14)

1. Remove Battery, battery tray.
2. Unbolt both battery support brackets.

I get these brackets out first because if you need to repaint it can dry between coats while you work on the rest.

You should now see this:
You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You may have had to unbolt the charcoal filter to get the battery brackets off. That is ok, but for now leave all the hoses attached. Again, we are starting off small for the newbies.

3. Time to clean, then paint those old rusty battery brackets. (optional)
Between coats, continue on!

4. Find your fuel pressure solenoid and remove the vacuum lines from the solenoid.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You have two options at this point:

A. You connect the manifold directly to the fuel pressure regulator
You must be logged in to view this image or video.


B. You connect the manifold, fuel pressure regulator, and boost gauge through a T
You must be logged in to view this image or video.


Now that wasn't so bad was it? Fuel pressure solenoid done!

5. Find your EVAP solenoid and EGR solenoid and pull the 4x vacuum lines.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.


6. Now pull the 3x lines from the throttle body.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.


7. Put on 3x vacuum caps on the throttle body.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.


At this point you need to stop and have a look behind the intake manifold and realize your throttle cable is back there. Be careful with the next step!

8. Remove the vacuum hose on the side of the EGR solenoid and unbolt the hardlines that are welded together. (2 bolts on back of intake manifold)
You must be logged in to view this image or video.


9. If you trace the vacuum lines down the backside of the intake manifold you will find two lines running to your EGR valve. You need to remove these. Picture shows EGR circled.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.


10. At this point you have two options:

A. Gently pull off the vacuum lines and mess with the T on the back of the intake manifold in hopes of salvaging the hose.

B. Cut the vacuum lines to pull them out and the hardlines welded together.

Either way you should end up with this:
You must be logged in to view this image or video.


11. Follow the remaining vacuum lines back to the charcoal canister.

Unbolt the canister assembly. (if wasn't done so previously)

Unplug the vent line from the firewall to the charcoal canister. I just tied this up to the firewall.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.


Unplug the vent line to the intake manifold.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.


Pull out the canister assembly. You should now see this on the ground.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.


12. Cap off you intake pipe (not sure on size already had one).
You must be logged in to view this image or video.


At this point or even at the end you can unbolt the EGR valve and bolt in your block off plate. It's two bolts, pretty straight forward. Some people use RTV, I just reused the metal gasket that was there previously.

13. Remove intake filter and locate your wastegate solenoid below. Remove both air lines from this. Trace those back to the T and remove the air line from your turbo and wastegate.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.


14. You now have three options:

A. Connect the turbo directly to wastegate (run wastegate pressure) and cap intake.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.


B.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.


C.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.


15. If you haven't done so already, unbolt the EGR valve and put on the block off plate.

16. Install battery brackets, tray, and battery.

17. Fire it up!

During this installation I did not remove the electrical connections/connectors. It is probably possible, but you will need some way of turning off the CEL that could spawn from doing this.

That's pretty much it.
Good Luck!
 
The line off the charcoal canister has a check valve on it that from what I've read is supposed to stay connected to the line off the firewall. I think it's a breather for the gas tank. Might wanna check into it cause I'm not 100% sure. Good tech article for sure.
 
Thanks. I'll look into the check valve and change the pic if needed. I will clean it up a little and take suggestions on changes. Not sure about the tech article. Is that something I do or moderator?
 
Well since you already posted it in this section a mod will most likely end up moving it, but for future reference, there is a tech articles section that members are allowed to post FAQs in, you can find a direct link to that at the bottom of the page.

As far as the charcoal canister, you don't need the canister itself, but I wouldn't recommend removing the breather line, you'll be smelling gas alot and if it is dumped in the engine bay, that potentially could be a problem.

I have mine routed to the bottom of the car so the wind carries it away. I'll post a pic later.
 
It sure is helpfull indeed! Also makes it alot easyer to understand if you wanna assamble all of these hoses back together.
 
1995-Tsi-awd you're my hero Sir. I was looking into this and I'll start tomorrow morning. Thank you.
 
Hi, does anybody try to unplug the harness of all the emission solenoid? Does it throw a cell? And where do all the harness go after unpluged? Do you just hide them behind the intake manifold?
Btw its a great write up
 
10 a and b are confusing me so you pull off the vac lines with the T and salvage a line?
 
You have two options here,
a- take all the vacuum lines off the T and maneuver all that crap out of there. From what I remember, the throttle cable is in the way. The hoses are also stuck on the t really good. This is only if you're trying to salvage the vacuum line to put it back on one day

b- Or you can carefully cut those hoses off and it's easier to remove.

a- pull the hoses off the t and remove everything uncut. Only to salvage the vacuum lines if you're planning on putting them back on. From what I remember it's hard to remove intact with the throttle cable in the way.
b - cut the vacuum lines on the t and it comes out much easier

sorry 4 double post, my phone is being weird.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
no, it's just a vacuum line manifold. it could be for cruise control only, but I can't remember because this was so long ago. You either have a manifold or not.
 
awesome write up, I am going to be doing this. I have an electronic boost controller a eboost 2 by turbo smart. Will I still ne able to use it after removing everything? I see in the diagrahms that a manual boost controller replaces the stock wastegate solenoid.

Also I am running speed density, could I run the map senor off the P port on the TB?
 
awesome write up, I am going to be doing this. I have an electronic boost controller a eboost 2 by turbo smart. Will I still ne able to use it after removing everything? I see in the diagrahms that a manual boost controller replaces the stock wastegate solenoid.

Also I am running speed density, could I run the map senor off the P port on the TB?
The MAP sensor replaces the MDP. Please see http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/wiring-logging-an-aem-3-5-bar-map-sensor.369338/
 
Great step by step! I did this last night. Other than "you may have to unbolt the charcoal filter", which was a massive pain, it was a piece of cake.
 
I know this is old but where and how do you vent the breather line ? Just cut it and vent it out under the car ?
 
Sorry I know it’s an old post, but for the solenoid on the firewall they have power going to them without vacuum lines should I unplug them all and just remove them? Or leave them connected with power?
 
I figure this is the best place to ask this.

I did the 2g (1995) vacuum delete. I saw not to T into the BOV. I wanted to ask why not do that. My car was T'ed into the BOV when I got it to add the MBC. There is no nipple on my turbo or J pipe, so I could not hook up the MBC that way, I needed to use a different boost source.

The picture above references installing the MBC using the first side to the intake pipe, and the other side to the WG. I tried this and it created a situation where my boost would go above what was set on the MBC.

I finally added a T to the FPR line off of the intake manifold and put the MBC on that. There are now 2 T's on that one port on the intake.

Just looking for clarification on:

1. Why, when the MBC was connected to the intake pipe, the above boost situation happened.
2. When there is no barb on the J-pipe or turbo for a boost source, what people do?
3. If there is a reason why adding a second T to the intake manifold port for the FPR is a bad idea. The car works correctly setup this way.

Thanks,
Scott
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top