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2G 2G Walk Through How To Remove Emissions

Posted by 1995-tsi-awd, Feb 17, 2014

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  1. 1995-tsi-awd

    1995-tsi-awd Proven Member

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    This thread was created to walk through the emissions removal on a 95-96 2g dsm. After reading some of the comments posted on the "How To's" it was apparent that some people are more visual learners rather than reading to one picture/diagram. I pulled my emissions last night and took some pictures while doing so. Hopefully this will aide others in pulling their emissions related components.

    Before you get started I highly recommend purchasing a EGR block off plate from ebay unless you can fabricate one yourself. They are $10 with free shipping. I removed my emissions before ordering one and spent more time fabricating one than I hoped for.

    Time to complete:
    30min (purchased block off plate, not repainting parts)
    2hrs (fabricating block off plate, repainting parts)

    Things you will need:
    Block off plate for EGR - Ebay or fabricated
    Cap for intake pipe (not sure on size.. already had one 1/4"?)
    4x 1/8" vacuum caps - sold at auto parts store

    Things I recommend:
    10ft of Vacuum line to replace old line (this stuff is less than $1 per foot)

    Let's get started.

    So you lift the hood up and you're looking at all those vacuum lines and you're not sure what's what and you don't want to screw things up.

    That's ok. We are going to start small and work our way up to the hardest part.

    Let's first post an image of the before and after for reference:

    Before:
    k7qj.png

    After:
    8vdg.png
    (turbo, mbc, and wastegate routing could be different on your installation; see step 14)

    1. Remove Battery, battery tray.
    2. Unbolt both battery support brackets.

    I get these brackets out first because if you need to repaint it can dry between coats while you work on the rest.

    You should now see this:
    x7ol.jpg

    You may have had to unbolt the charcoal filter to get the battery brackets off. That is ok, but for now leave all the hoses attached. Again, we are starting off small for the newbies.

    3. Time to clean, then paint those old rusty battery brackets. (optional)
    Between coats, continue on!

    4. Find your fuel pressure solenoid and remove the vacuum lines from the solenoid.
    4p6y.jpg

    You have two options at this point:

    A. You connect the manifold directly to the fuel pressure regulator
    swke.jpg

    B. You connect the manifold, fuel pressure regulator, and boost gauge through a T
    ef5d.jpg

    Now that wasn't so bad was it? Fuel pressure solenoid done!

    5. Find your EVAP solenoid and EGR solenoid and pull the 4x vacuum lines.
    5r06.jpg

    6. Now pull the 3x lines from the throttle body.
    2qmy.jpg

    7. Put on 3x vacuum caps on the throttle body.
    q8o2.jpg

    At this point you need to stop and have a look behind the intake manifold and realize your throttle cable is back there. Be careful with the next step!

    8. Remove the vacuum hose on the side of the EGR solenoid and unbolt the hardlines that are welded together. (2 bolts on back of intake manifold)
    by7e.jpg

    9. If you trace the vacuum lines down the backside of the intake manifold you will find two lines running to your EGR valve. You need to remove these. Picture shows EGR circled.
    v92h.jpg

    10. At this point you have two options:

    A. Gently pull off the vacuum lines and mess with the T on the back of the intake manifold in hopes of salvaging the hose.

    B. Cut the vacuum lines to pull them out and the hardlines welded together.

    Either way you should end up with this:
    pz8t.jpg

    11. Follow the remaining vacuum lines back to the charcoal canister.

    Unbolt the canister assembly. (if wasn't done so previously)

    Unplug the vent line from the firewall to the charcoal canister. I just tied this up to the firewall.
    eb68.jpg

    Unplug the vent line to the intake manifold.
    j1ev.jpg

    Pull out the canister assembly. You should now see this on the ground.
    1bo2.jpg

    12. Cap off you intake pipe (not sure on size already had one).
    gkjm.jpg

    At this point or even at the end you can unbolt the EGR valve and bolt in your block off plate. It's two bolts, pretty straight forward. Some people use RTV, I just reused the metal gasket that was there previously.

    13. Remove intake filter and locate your wastegate solenoid below. Remove both air lines from this. Trace those back to the T and remove the air line from your turbo and wastegate.
    pq4v.jpg

    14. You now have three options:

    A. Connect the turbo directly to wastegate (run wastegate pressure) and cap intake.
    76n8.jpg

    B.
    6ou2.jpg

    C.
    cusa.jpg

    15. If you haven't done so already, unbolt the EGR valve and put on the block off plate.

    16. Install battery brackets, tray, and battery.

    17. Fire it up!

    During this installation I did not remove the electrical connections/connectors. It is probably possible, but you will need some way of turning off the CEL that could spawn from doing this.

    That's pretty much it.
    Good Luck!
     

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  2. codym

    codym Proven Member

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    Good walk-through. This should be posted in the tech articles.
     

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  3. 97_4g63t

    97_4g63t Supporting VIP

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    The line off the charcoal canister has a check valve on it that from what I've read is supposed to stay connected to the line off the firewall. I think it's a breather for the gas tank. Might wanna check into it cause I'm not 100% sure. Good tech article for sure.
     

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  4. 1995-tsi-awd

    1995-tsi-awd Proven Member

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    Thanks. I'll look into the check valve and change the pic if needed. I will clean it up a little and take suggestions on changes. Not sure about the tech article. Is that something I do or moderator?
     

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  5. codym

    codym Proven Member

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    Well since you already posted it in this section a mod will most likely end up moving it, but for future reference, there is a tech articles section that members are allowed to post FAQs in, you can find a direct link to that at the bottom of the page.

    As far as the charcoal canister, you don't need the canister itself, but I wouldn't recommend removing the breather line, you'll be smelling gas alot and if it is dumped in the engine bay, that potentially could be a problem.

    I have mine routed to the bottom of the car so the wind carries it away. I'll post a pic later.
     

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  6. Joey de Leeuw

    Joey de Leeuw Probationary Member

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    It sure is helpfull indeed! Also makes it alot easyer to understand if you wanna assamble all of these hoses back together.
     
    dtdeg likes this.
  7. Yomero

    Yomero Proven Member

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    1995-Tsi-awd you're my hero Sir. I was looking into this and I'll start tomorrow morning. Thank you.
     
  8. 1995-tsi-awd

    1995-tsi-awd Proven Member

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    Glad I could help.
     

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  9. Onizuka186

    Onizuka186 Proven Member

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    Hi, does anybody try to unplug the harness of all the emission solenoid? Does it throw a cell? And where do all the harness go after unpluged? Do you just hide them behind the intake manifold?
    Btw its a great write up
     

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  10. 1995-tsi-awd

    1995-tsi-awd Proven Member

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    I wouldn't know, I was running an evo 8 ecu and shut everything off. I also have some check engine codes when I bought it LOL.
     

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  11. Erakiageos

    Erakiageos Probationary Member

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    10 a and b are confusing me so you pull off the vac lines with the T and salvage a line?
     
  12. 1995-tsi-awd

    1995-tsi-awd Proven Member

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    You have two options here,
    a- take all the vacuum lines off the T and maneuver all that crap out of there. From what I remember, the throttle cable is in the way. The hoses are also stuck on the t really good. This is only if you're trying to salvage the vacuum line to put it back on one day

    b- Or you can carefully cut those hoses off and it's easier to remove.

    a- pull the hoses off the t and remove everything uncut. Only to salvage the vacuum lines if you're planning on putting them back on. From what I remember it's hard to remove intact with the throttle cable in the way.
    b - cut the vacuum lines on the t and it comes out much easier

    sorry 4 double post, my phone is being weird.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Jul 19, 2020

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  13. Erakiageos

    Erakiageos Probationary Member

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    So I don't need to cap anything behind there.
     
  14. 1995-tsi-awd

    1995-tsi-awd Proven Member

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    no, it's just a vacuum line manifold. it could be for cruise control only, but I can't remember because this was so long ago. You either have a manifold or not.
     

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  15. Erakiageos

    Erakiageos Probationary Member

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    Alright cool probably do this over the weekend.
     
  16. TurboSpider

    TurboSpider Proven Member

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    awesome write up, I am going to be doing this. I have an electronic boost controller a eboost 2 by turbo smart. Will I still ne able to use it after removing everything? I see in the diagrahms that a manual boost controller replaces the stock wastegate solenoid.

    Also I am running speed density, could I run the map senor off the P port on the TB?
     

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  17. 1995-tsi-awd

    1995-tsi-awd Proven Member

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    The MAP sensor replaces the MDP. Please see http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/wiring-logging-an-aem-3-5-bar-map-sensor.369338/
     

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  18. Artago

    Artago Proven Member

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    What effect does bypassing the FPR solenoid have?
     

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  19. DSM2G-DAD

    DSM2G-DAD Probationary Member

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    Great step by step! I did this last night. Other than "you may have to unbolt the charcoal filter", which was a massive pain, it was a piece of cake.
     
  20. Terrj

    Terrj Proven Member

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    I know this is old but where and how do you vent the breather line ? Just cut it and vent it out under the car ?
     

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  21. 1995-tsi-awd

    1995-tsi-awd Proven Member

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    That's what I did, but you can also put a check valve on it as mentioned in prior posts.
     

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  22. YoungCesar303

    YoungCesar303 Probationary Member

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    Sorry I know it’s an old post, but for the solenoid on the firewall they have power going to them without vacuum lines should I unplug them all and just remove them? Or leave them connected with power?
     
  23. 1995-tsi-awd

    1995-tsi-awd Proven Member

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    Just leave it plugged in and cap it. Shouldn't throw a code from what I remember.
     

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  24. frosh29

    frosh29 Proven Member

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    I figure this is the best place to ask this.

    I did the 2g (1995) vacuum delete. I saw not to T into the BOV. I wanted to ask why not do that. My car was T'ed into the BOV when I got it to add the MBC. There is no nipple on my turbo or J pipe, so I could not hook up the MBC that way, I needed to use a different boost source.

    The picture above references installing the MBC using the first side to the intake pipe, and the other side to the WG. I tried this and it created a situation where my boost would go above what was set on the MBC.

    I finally added a T to the FPR line off of the intake manifold and put the MBC on that. There are now 2 T's on that one port on the intake.

    Just looking for clarification on:

    1. Why, when the MBC was connected to the intake pipe, the above boost situation happened.
    2. When there is no barb on the J-pipe or turbo for a boost source, what people do?
    3. If there is a reason why adding a second T to the intake manifold port for the FPR is a bad idea. The car works correctly setup this way.

    Thanks,
    Scott
     

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  25. frosh29

    frosh29 Proven Member

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    Anyone?
     

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