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ECMlink 2G V3 first time user setting up

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EC17PSE

Freelancer
5,867
3,448
Nov 1, 2008
London, UK, Europe
Hey all, so I have finally got around to installing V3 after it sitting on my shelf for countless years! i know!! i dont know why i left it for this long.

im in need of some help since the ecmlink videos are now not working thanks for flash player being the issue im not finding the info as easy as it once was and i dont know why.

so today i did the basic setup of TB adjust for slop. setup TPS to 0.63v and set WOT up from 0-100% and its all good, i was 1% out from fully closed so im happy it was that close to begin with..

then i went into the other settings and inverted CAS as im a 97. then the issues no arise! this is mainly the SD section im having issues with as nothing is listed in one page or thread and its all over the place and some stuff does not match what im seeing so im struggling to get basics right currently!
im using the ecmtning harness from the oem maf to the sensors and i cannot figure out what output thats from as i found it online saying two placements one being intake temp and the other baro! i have done both to see what happens but when i try to put it into the log capture the selected items are ghosted out and not showing when everything else is?

also im having a hard timing with inj voltage as i cannot find the data online and i have done the math to my best which sucks and even copying others online im getting a different result then their maths?
i set the global and dead times using the calculator which seems to be correct as far as i know.

i am not going to start this car till i know im getting the basics 100% right from the get go. is there any one place to go and find this info out as basic as it is, im not liking using multiple videos and threads that seems to contradict each other all the time! the ecmtuning videos may not of been the best going but they was quite alot more helpful for basics and good info.

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If all the setting are correct and the car still doesn’t start, spray some starter fluid in the IM and see if it starts. If it does, you can increase crankingfueladjust which is only active for a few seconds during startup.
 
If all the setting are correct and the car still doesn’t start, spray some starter fluid in the IM and see if it starts. If it does, you can increase crankingfueladjust which is only active for a few seconds during startup.
no no your not reading it right LOL, im not trying to start it yet, im trying to get the basics dialed in first and im stuck on a few things
 
no no your not reading it right LOL, im not trying to start it yet, im trying to get the basics dialed in first and im stuck on a few things
Oh my bad. Let me read that again LOL

Bobby can you post your live settings you have so far?
 
Oh my bad. Let me read that again LOL

Boddy can you post your live settings you have so far?
i did not take any live data since i was just doing the basic setup. i live streamed the TPS and WOT and thats it for anything live. apart from the pics above thats all i have adjusted to get me started on the path. i kinda gave up as the info is not greatly easy to find anymore but im going to exhaust every thread till i figure it out and the right path to take. im only with the cars on the weekends so its hard to do anything during the week also
 
i did not take any live data since i was just doing the basic setup. i live streamed the TPS and WOT and thats it for anything live. apart from the pics above thats all i have adjusted to get me started on the path. i kinda gave up as the info is not greatly easy to find anymore but im going to exhaust every thread till i figure it out and the right path to take. im only with the cars on the weekends so its hard to do anything during the week also
You can post just the settings or any log so we can view to try and help. It’s just easier than looking at pics. Might be a dumb question, have you gone through this page

As for the injectors, as long as you’re not too far off on global and deadtime, it’ll be fine as you’ll have to get it running to really dial them in.
 
You can post just the settings or any log so we can view to try and help. It’s just easier than looking at pics. Might be a dumb question, have you gone through this page

As for the injectors, as long as you’re not too far off on global and deadtime, it’ll be fine as you’ll have to get it running to really dial them in.
I have read that but i need to re read it all again during the week when i can sit down and not rush read while with the car. how do i post the settings i had saved? i used to remember this ahile back when i learnt it but not used it so i forgot it all
 
All the way on top in the setting screen you’ll see save as. Save it to your desktop. Then come here and select attach file and find it.

Yeah I’ve been there and it’s definitely overwhelming in the beginning. There’s just a lot to take in but once you get used to playing around with all the settings, it’s not bad.
 
All the way on top in the setting screen you’ll see save as. Save it to your desktop. Then come here and select attach file and find it.

Yeah I’ve been there and it’s definitely overwhelming in the beginning. There’s just a lot to take in but once you get used to playing around with all the settings, it’s not bad.
im sure it will get easier once im upto speed on it, i shall get that attachment tomorrow on here once im home from work
 

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  • settings.2021.04.12-01.ecm baseline april 2021.ecm
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Stock fuel pressure on 2G is 43.5psi. Are you really setting your fuel pressure at 42.6psi? Don't see anything else out of whack. You should be able to start the car and then make adjustments to the deadtimes as needed to get it idling at stoich. Just make sure you have the capture values setup so that the STFT and LTFT can be displayed. Do you have a wideband? If not then you will want to adjust deadtimes until you see FrontO2 voltage flipping from lean to rich, then keep adjusting deadtimes to try to bring STFT closer to 0%.
 
Stock fuel pressure on 2G is 43.5psi. Are you really setting your fuel pressure at 42.6psi? Don't see anything else out of whack. You should be able to start the car and then make adjustments to the deadtimes as needed to get it idling at stoich. Just make sure you have the capture values setup so that the STFT and LTFT can be displayed. Do you have a wideband? If not then you will want to adjust deadtimes until you see FrontO2 voltage flipping from lean to rich, then keep adjusting deadtimes to try to bring STFT closer to 0%.
Thats weird as i set it to 43.5psi in the calculator and it still shows up as 43.5 psi? Where are you seeing it differently.

also yes to the WB, i have yet to wire it into the ecu which is next on my list into the rear o2 sensor. i shall make sure i follow everything to log, i am using this thread to log the correct values for it https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/list-of-values-to-log.444831/
 
Yes, you're right. You have 43.5psi. Must have been me inadvertently changing something. Those are all good values to log and display. Just remember that CombinedFT can be misleading sometimes. As CombinedFT is STFT+LTFT. So if STFT is -5% and LTFT is +5%, then CombinedFT will show 0% and then you wouldn't even know your idle and part throttle were way off.
 
1) Enable idle switch operation. Simulate idle switch from tps
2) As mentioned, setup wideband. Should start fine.
Im on an evo 3 tb so is this idle switch a 1g thing? Why does it need to be simulated as what would it be reading if its not simulated.

I was thinking of using the stock evo tune sinces its more aggressive. Is this wrong to do?

Once fired up i assume this is where i will get my injector voltage values listed for me or do i still need to calculate this as im struggling on this currently
 
Yes, you're right. You have 43.5psi. Must have been me inadvertently changing something. Those are all good values to log and display. Just remember that CombinedFT can be misleading sometimes. As CombinedFT is STFT+LTFT. So if STFT is -5% and LTFT is +5%, then CombinedFT will show 0% and then you wouldn't even know your idle and part throttle were way off.
I will log all of it from combined and LTFT and STFT. This way i know whats going on till i wrap my head around this
 
Definitely Enable idle switch operation unless you are trying to do the pop and bangs tune. This controls the fuel cut when you let off the throttle. Simulate idle switch can be either enable or disabled with 2G TPS as the idle switch is built into it. As long as you have TPS set up correctly in DSMlink then Enabling it should be better. 1G TPS does not have the idle switch built in so should Enable for sure.

Without having a flow sheet on the injectors to tell you the deadtime at different voltages, I would just leave this default in the Direct Access tables. And just adjust the deadtime in the Fuel tab.
 
Definitely Enable idle switch operation unless you are trying to do the pop and bangs tune. This controls the fuel cut when you let off the throttle. Simulate idle switch can be either enable or disabled with 2G TPS as the idle switch is built into it. As long as you have TPS set up correctly in DSMlink then Enabling it should be better. 1G TPS does not have the idle switch built in so should Enable for sure.

Without having a flow sheet on the injectors to tell you the deadtime at different voltages, I would just leave this default in the Direct Access tables. And just adjust the deadtime in the Fuel tab.
I shall certainly make sure to tick those two boxes for the idle switch then so they out the way and mind.

The only data sheet i have from FIC is this one.
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I had to email for this frim them.the only thing im stuggling with is the math! I read how to do it but my calculations are not getting close to what im reading and going against other setups as a guideance from my under standing its M.S (milliseconds) using your desired fuel pressure setup X by 1000 and answer but even trying to mimic other peoples calculations im getting different results so im off somewhere here on this. I know its only basic and final setup can be adjusted later for injectors or so im reading but i want to figure out why im struggling with this math for voltage LOL
 
So 7 and 19 can be what ever or what the next one is. Also how did you work out the 7 and 9v when it shows 10 and 8? Thats what i could not figure out
Assuming you're running 43.5 fuel pressure

7v=who cares
9v=2555
12v=1500
14v=1200
16v=1010
19v=who cares
 
Your car will never see 7 or 19v so it doesn't matter.

For example, on the 9v I go right in the middle of 8 and 10v. So, 3.05-2.06 which is 0.99. I divide that by 2 and add it to 2.06. Sorry if that's confusing.
No dont be sorry, i need to learn and this helps me understand more. The more i know even small details the more i can try understand it in the future also
 
I figure my injector offsets exactly the same way that @Vegas Smith does his. Split the difference between the 2 values and then do the same to the next set of values. I take the difference, divide by 2 and add that figure to the lower number to get my number in between. Sounds kinda confusing but has always worked for me and is easy.
Bobby, load the 2g base settings as a good starting point for tuning. The 1g maps are too aggressive. I have had several tuners help and we ALWAYS started with a 2g base setting on fuel and timing. I have attached it for you if you decide to start with it.
Marty
 

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  • DSM-2G-stock.eda
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