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2G: Upgrade upper/lower control arms and a rear sway bar

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ZyXEL

Probationary Member
29
3
Feb 4, 2013
Capital, Europe
Hi all,

following the thread (as I can't still post there) http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/3g-upper-lower-control-arms.351043/ I wanted to share my findings for all European guys here.

As you could expect we don't have many 3.0L 3G Eclipses or Galants in Europe, so there's a challenge to source a 19mm rear sway bar (2.4L 3G Eclipses has 18mm sway bar). So after deep research I've found that all European 8G Galants (1997-2003, all trims and engines, including Wagons) has 19mm rear sway bar and some of them has even 20mm ones. The rear chassis/suspension setup on 8G Galants are practically the same as on 2G Eclipses/Talons.

Here are the OEM numbers and modifications you can look for:
MR297627 - 20mm; CENTRAL-EU MODIFICATION: SNGEDL6C, SNGEQL6C, SRGEDL6C, SRGEQL6C
MR272712 - 19mm; All Other MODIFICATION: SNGEQL6, SNGEQR6, SRGEQL6, SRGEQR6

You can take upper/lower control arms of any 8G Galant too as they are tubular also as mentioned in the previous threads. If there will be a request for a full OEM code list for this setup- I can source it.
 
You should come over to here & run for a politically office. Our politicians don't like facts either. Just emotions & feelings will do. You'd fit in well.
Just for you, I believe everyone else is smarter: if you take tubular and stamped- you will have one weak point in crushing/bending- the opening in the stamped one, as it will tend to bend to the opening side (walls bending outwards center). If you take the same construction, but this time tubular- one wall will stand the force while the other will get the tension, compensating (not fully, but still) the deformation possibility. Based on that- the stamped one will bend way sooner than the tubular one. If you need a crushing simulations- I can provide you that for an agreed payment (if you don't believe me), but I've already said that these forces are waaaaayyy greater you would consider changing upper control arms from stamped to tubular for a daily driver or even an occasional track car.
As it hasn't any weight advantage- it's just a money you can burn question.
 
Since I started this argument I'll try and end it. This was merely to point out there is nothing objectibve about the part. The reason some aftermarket a arms are "better" in some applications is not a strength issue. Its typically a change in geometry that allows for more neutral handling rather than the typically designed in understeer. There also may be provisions for relocated or angular changes to ball joints for common ride height changes on lowered cars. Weight savings may be a bonus. I would imagine a designer could or would add in additional stiffness over an oem stamped part but even that may not be necessary depending on application. Are we experiencing bending below the deformation point? I doubt it. The lawyers would see to that. Design parameters for structural components typically have a wide factor of safety unless youre talking about fighter jets or spacecraft where weight is so much more critical. And I dont often mention but just for an objective viewpoint yes I do have a degree in enginering and I can tell you first hand "better" doesnt mean crap without objective observable repeatable data.
 
I know know why mello feels the need to bust balls if you feel there weaker then don't use them Simple ain't it?.... He was simply posting up part numbers to help any one interested in doing this in the future.
I believe they discovered the design flaw in the lower arms and changed them to tubular in the same time changing the upper ones to tubular too although they were not the weakest point in the system.
 
...And I dont often mention but just for an objective viewpoint yes I do have a degree in enginering and I can tell you first hand "better" doesnt mean crap without objective observable repeatable data.
Hi, just to be on a same page- I'm also an engineer, currently working for the leading flight/landing gear firm in Europe. I don't throw money at everyone around me and my moto is to get as much Mitsubishi adopted as possible. Be it Galant or Sigma (for suspension) or Space Wagon (for MAF plug). It's my hobby, I drive it as much as possible, sadly it's less than I want for various reasons. But that's not the point- I've never said Rear Upper Arms are better and you should change them. Just to be clear.
 
This thread just got real cloudy real fast. But larger sway bar! No objective data needed. I think we can assume this with reasonable expectation. More power to you.
 
This thread just got real cloudy real fast. But larger sway bar! No objective data needed. I think we can assume this with reasonable expectation. More power to you.
More Posts do not make you wiser, just saying. Do you need data on sway bars or suspension overall?
Bear in mind I'm just continuing the original thread and I'm not stating any axioms.
 
Some folks stated the controls arms were obviously better. It isnt obvious to me. That is what I wanted folks to understand.....
How is it better I ask? Wouldnt you agree?
 
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