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2G TSI

2GBossLady

Proven Member
38
18
Apr 2, 2020
Aurora, Colorado
Ok. So we'll start with the fixes done that the PO was not so bright about. Started with removing the wheel spacers that were only put on the rear wheels.
I'm thinking their thought process was to gut out the interior as the headliner is removed and no shift boot. I plan to add a custom shift boot that matches my purple color scheme in the engine bay. Still figuring out what was done to the center console as there are loose wires everywhere with a pioneer cd player/radio installed and the console no longer seeds together.
Boost gauge was wired through the door (not sure how it hasnt kinked yet) and the wires plus the light were inserted through a hole that was cute into the dash. The light has since burned/shorted out and (when the car was running) the gauge was not consistent so that is added to the todo list.
More loose/disconnected unknown wires/sensors all throughout engine mostly by firewall. Nothing so far seems to be of upmost importance, but it's also currently not running so ‍

Was missing downstream o2 and cat when purchased-both needed for emissions so friend welded on magnaflow high flow cat. Installed the o2 but miscut the exhaust and didnt reach so it disconnected and broke already. Will be getting exhaust fixed correctly (rusted with numerous holes causing exhaust leaks). Its currently 2 1/2" so may go to 3", havent decided yet.
Air intake and upgraded BOV with boost controller (unknown brands and unknown boost setting ) already installed.

Now to the fun stuff
Started with basic maintenance as it had been sitting for I'm guessing months. Oil change, new plugs and wires, cleaned up the headlights, replaced valve cover gasket (with a valve cover paint job), exhaust manifold gasket-where we learned 2 of the bolts we thought were missing are actually stuck in the head. No luck on extracting those yet so that is on the todo list to fix those exhaust leaks as well. Pulled it apart to check cams and injectors. All looked good (could not figure out if stock or not but if upgraded not enough to tell). Little bit of wear on turbines but no real damage to turbo and no boost leaks.
Upgraded to the FMIC with a Tial QR BOV. Removed the ac condenser in the process. Rest of ac still to be removed.

At this point the car was still running but still had problems at start up. Could manipulate it to start if we disconnected the battery and cam/crank sensors overnight, sometimes. Sometimes started no problem. Sometimes still started but ran like crap or died out. Decided to replace the cam sensor at this point knowing it could cause some of the problems we were having. When we replaced it, found the timing was off by one tooth so corrected this too. Belt looked in great shape though. Cam sensor did not fix the problem; still hit or miss on starting.
Got the vehicle back to my house. Took it out a day later and filled the tank thinking it's got really bad old gas in it, plus on empty. It started and ran beautifully! Drove it around for about 10 min til I heard the o2 sensor (see above) smacking the ground. Drove it home, parked it on the incline driveway, and it hasnt started since. That was Sept last year.

So I started messing with it again when the weather got warmer here the last month or 2. I replaced the map sensor (it had some corrosion), the battery, rechecked the plugs and tested resistance of coils. Spark was all verified and good. Started checking fuel. Replaced the filter-OEM with 130k. Was actually in decent shape but a little clogged so feel good about replacement. Went to replace the fuel pump with a walbro 255 hp my buddy gave me for free. Found out it already had a walbro 255 lph. From here discovered the fuel pressure regulator was bad. (It had been stock so no idea the pump had been upgraded.) Am now ordering an adjustable fuel pressure regulator kit.
Decided to replace the rusted brakes front and rear while it's not going anywhere anyway.

Sooooo that's where I am right now. Still wont start, still unknown reasoning. Dont want to throw parts at it to figure it out, but will replace parts I know are bad. Once it's running, I'll get the exhaust problems fixed. Then emissions/tags. Then I can start building for fun.
 

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2GBossLady

Proven Member
38
18
Apr 2, 2020
Aurora, Colorado
New problem discovered today. Noticed a considerable amount of fuel leaking when I jacked up the car to work on the rear brakes. Found the top of the pump covered in a pool of fuel. My buddy kinked the hardline but said it should be fine. Not sure if the kink did not allow fuel to pass through correctly or if I didnt get the line retightened well enough, but am confident the excess fuel came from that line/connection. This was discovered after having relieved the pressure from the assembly. Now for the fun of junkyard finding a replacement assembly (only ones I find online are for fwd not awd) or figure out how to replace that line. Wish me luck!!
 

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2GBossLady

Proven Member
38
18
Apr 2, 2020
Aurora, Colorado
Weekend fun. Huge thanks to @ThunderChild for finding and sending me parts!!
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Got a shift boot and got it installed! A lot easier than expected.

Also got this sending unit.
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After about a week of soaking and scrubbing got it all cleaned up and taken apart.
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Got the guts swapped over from mine (much cleaner but no good with that kinked line).
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And installed!!!

Started working on the fuel lines. Got the feed line from filter to rail replaced today.
Before:
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Now working on where to mount the AFPR I got in. Hopefully get all that in tomorrow and see if it starts.
 

2GBossLady

Proven Member
38
18
Apr 2, 2020
Aurora, Colorado
Retry for pictures
 

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2GBossLady

Proven Member
38
18
Apr 2, 2020
Aurora, Colorado
This is what the car sounds like for those with any interest in helping figure out my no start. This is BEFORE I fix fuel problems. I will take another video of trying to start it once I get the AFPR installed (plan for today). If it starts then y'all can join on my happiness. If it still dont start I will be asking for help of what next, and video will say if it sounds any different/better/worse.
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2GBossLady

Proven Member
38
18
Apr 2, 2020
Aurora, Colorado
So I got the new regulator on. Mounted one bracket to the other to make it mount to the firewall. It works and clears the hood so I'm happy. Have to modify the timing cover now tho. Got it all hooked up and excitement was rising to see if it would start when I realised. ..my vacuum line is too short. So I have to wait another day to see if it starts once I get more vacuum line. Soooooo close!!!

Side note:
Also removed some AC line and the drier (condenser was already removed to make room for FMIC), which was covered in power steering fluid. Discovered just how bad that leak was when I woke up to a nice size puddle under the car in only 12 hours time. So that will be the next fix it looks like.
 

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2GBossLady

Proven Member
38
18
Apr 2, 2020
Aurora, Colorado
IT STARTED!!! It keeps dying out but it ran long enough to adjust fuel pressure. Will play more in the sun later but at least now I've got something to work with. FYI this dying out was what it started doing when I decided to replace the cam sensor which changed absolutely nothing so if anyone has any other ideas I'm all ears.

Forgive my high pitched squeals of excitement; havent heard it start in over 6 months.
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2GBossLady

Proven Member
38
18
Apr 2, 2020
Aurora, Colorado
Modified the timing cover so it fits with the new fitting on the fuel rail.
Tested the coolant temp sensor. Either I did it wrong (only second time using an ohmmeter and I'm still not confident I did it right the first time) or it's bad as it read 0.0 ohms sooooo.......that's where it sits for the night.
 

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2GBossLady

Proven Member
38
18
Apr 2, 2020
Aurora, Colorado
More research. Pulled the plugs to see what they look like after getting it to turn over. These are brand new plugs with maybe 50 miles on them. Not what I wanted to see but I'll clean em up and refire to see if I get same or new results.
Top to bottom in the pic are plugs 4 3 2 1
 

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ThunderChild

Supporting VIP
3,763
1,124
Jan 5, 2012
Rathdrum, Idaho
I would ditch those iridium plugs and get some standard copper ngks. You replace them more often, but they work so much better than the platinum, iridium or any other kind of plug.
 

2GBossLady

Proven Member
38
18
Apr 2, 2020
Aurora, Colorado
Really? Good to know.

Cleaned the plugs and IT RAN!!! Definitely misfiring but not throwing a check engine light. Pulled the plugs again after it ran. Now to find the source of the misfire.

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Also found the source of my power steering leak; solid drip pouring out the bottom of the reservoir from the lines. Hoses look good.

Slowly but surely
 

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miguelmcv

Supporting Member
2,718
247
May 3, 2009
Fresno, California
Glad she is running.

Pull a spark wire off 1 at a time and see which cylinder is it, it could be just the wire itself., pull it off and see if the idle changes, then put it back on and keep doing it till you find the bad one, you will notes there is no idle change when you take of the bad one.

Check for a burn spot at the end of the wire, if it has a burn spot it’s leaking, replace it.
 

2GBossLady

Proven Member
38
18
Apr 2, 2020
Aurora, Colorado
More answers!!
Decided to retest spark since I was not the one who did it when I first got it and suspected a misfire (mechanic friend) and now that I've fixed up the fuel system. Guess what? Plugs 1 and 4 are clean cause they aren't seeing any action! So....opposite of what I thought was going on but actually makes more sense than what I was thinking so I'm happy I retested to verify.
 

2GBossLady

Proven Member
38
18
Apr 2, 2020
Aurora, Colorado
Yes used an inline spark tester. Plugs 1 and 4 did nothing. Plugs 2 and 3 lit up like Christmas trees.
Plug 1
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Plug 2
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Plug 3
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Plug 4
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miguelmcv

Supporting Member
2,718
247
May 3, 2009
Fresno, California
Ok, we are getting somewhere.,
The coils come in two packs 1&4, and 2&3., so it means one coil pack is not working (1&4) so you have to figure out why.

Check the wiring at the back of the coils, see if you have current on both coils,
1. There are 3 wires, 1 red (power) and splits at the back of the coils, ( check if it’s not brocket at the back of the coil 1&4).

2. Check the other wires (solid blue and blue with black stripe)., this wire is the trigger wire to turn on the coil, solid blue goes to one coil pack and blue with black stripe goes to the other coil pack., make sure they are good.

If you don’t find anything wrong with the wiring then swap the trigger wires (swap blue solid to blue with black stripe) , so now that you swap the trigger wires, you swap the order on the coils.

Let say wire solid blue triggers coil 1&4 (left coil pack) now that you swap it to the other coil (right coil pack) then the right coil becomes to be 1&4 and left coil pack is your 3&4.,
So saying that, you have to swap the firing order, It doesn’t matter how they are ordered at the coil pack itself. Let’s say, right coil is 1&4, then you can do 1&4 or 4&1 it doesn’t matter, as far 1&4 are in the same coil pack, and same goes with the other coil pack (2&3, or 3&2).

So now with the coil pack swapped, start the car and see if you still have the misfire in 1&4, If you still have the misfire 1&4 then your problem is before the coils, which it could be the wiring , the trigger wire is brocken, you have a bad tpu or a bad connecsion.

Now, if your misfire change to 2&3 , then you have a bad coil pack.

Hope I got all clear for you.

To better understand, what you are doing is, using coil pack 2&3 in place of coil pack 1&2, to see if it’s the coil pack or is something else.
 
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