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2G swapping in a ‘97 GS-T motor engine into a 95 Talon w/ a 95 ECU CAS Help

1greyawdtsi

Proven Member
62
6
Sep 18, 2009
Seattle, Washington
Hi,
I’m in the process of swapping out my crank-walked ‘95 AWD Talon motor & installing a lower mileage ‘97 GST motor.

I’ve read a lot of threads here & on ECM TUNING WIKI about the CAS Differences between the 95-96 to 97-99 swap. Also my ‘95 ECU was cleaned up and just socketed by ECM Tuning right before my motor walked. So if the swap is successful/running I will be getting ECM Link and running my ‘95 EPROM ECU.

Can any one clarify the best way to wire up the ‘97 CAS to my ‘95 CAS harness to get it roughly running first, taking into consideration I rather wait on a successful & running engine swap before spending the money on ECM link? Thanks in advance.
 

DSMPT

DSM Wiseman
1,747
1,308
Jun 12, 2014
Japan / Mexico, Arizona
Maybe I don't understand very well what exactly you want to do, but you wouldn't need to rewire anything if you would use the sensor and the intake cam gear that were on the old engine. In case if you want to use a 2Gb CAS in your 95 DSM, I think the easiest way would be to use an adapter like the link below.
 

1greyawdtsi

Proven Member
62
6
Sep 18, 2009
Seattle, Washington
I’m
Maybe I don't understand very well what exactly you want to do, but you wouldn't need to rewire anything if you would use the sensor and the intake cam gear that were on the old engine. In case if you want to use a 2Gb CAS in your 95 DSM, I think the easiest way would be to use an adapter like the link below.
Thanks for that information. From what I’ve read the CAS should be the only real issue putting a 97 4g63t motor in my 95 running a 95 ecu. Electrical is my weakest skill set so if it’s plug & play then great! Will see if there are any reviews on this product & company - thanks again!
 

dustyboner

DSM Wiseman
1,940
1,050
Mar 13, 2016
abq, New_Mexico
you would need cut off the 95 cam sensor connector, extend the wires and solder on the connector for a 2gb cam sensor.

you could also cut the connector off your old cam sensor, extend the wires and solder on the connector for a 2gb cam sensor. that way it will just plug into your existing harness without cutting it.

if your running link there is an option for running a 95 ecu with a 1g or 2gb sensor. then you only need to swap your plug wires.

if you don't have link, you need to swap plug wires and injector pins.
 

1greyawdtsi

Proven Member
62
6
Sep 18, 2009
Seattle, Washington
you would need cut off the 95 cam sensor connector, extend the wires and solder on the connector for a 2gb cam sensor.

you could also cut the connector off your old cam sensor, extend the wires and solder on the connector for a 2gb cam sensor. that way it will just plug into your existing harness without cutting it.

if your running link there is an option for running a 95 ecu with a 1g or 2gb sensor. then you only need to swap your plug wires.

if you don't have link, you need to swap plug wires and injector pins.
Unfortunately I’m not yet.familiar, are you referring to injector ECU pins at the ECU? Thank you!
 

dustyboner

DSM Wiseman
1,940
1,050
Mar 13, 2016
abq, New_Mexico


if your standing in front of the car and looking at the coil packs, stock should be
| | | |
3 2 1 4

you need to swap it to
| | | |
1 4 3 2

its wasted spark so all that matters is that you swap the 2 wires one coil with the ones on the other
i usually end up going 4123

now the car will start with just swapping the plug wires. so if you just want to get it started and then your going with link, i wouldn't swap the injector pins cause its way easier to just click a box in the ecmlink software.


Justin DuBois said:
Due to the inverted Cam signal, injector trigger wires will need to be switch on 95-96 year ECU cars with this wiring diagram in order to bring the signals back into phase. The difference is subtle, but the motor will start easier, provide smoother idle, and have less hesitations during mild acceleration.




If you decide your gonna swap the injector pins, here is what you do

Justin DuBois said:
Use the following diagram: http://www.vfaq.com/mods/ecu-harness-2G.html



When removing the pins on your ECU wiring harness be patient and delicate. It requires no force to remove the pins. Consult the diagram in the front of your electrical service manual regarding the proper way to inspect and remove pins. You will need a tiny jewelers screwdriver, (1/16 in) to release a plastic catch holding the pin's in. Use a flashlight and take a good look at the harness before beginning.

Green: Pin 1 is now 14
Green w/ yellow stripe: Pin 2, is now Pin 1
Green w/ red stripe: Pin 15, is now Pin 2
Yellow w/ black stripe: Pin 14 is now Pin 15
 

1greyawdtsi

Proven Member
62
6
Sep 18, 2009
Seattle, Washington


if your standing in front of the car and looking at the coil packs, stock should be
| | | |
3 2 1 4

you need to swap it to
| | | |
1 4 3 2

its wasted spark so all that matters is that you swap the 2 wires one coil with the ones on the other
i usually end up going 4123

now the car will start with just swapping the plug wires. so if you just want to get it started and then your going with link, i wouldn't swap the injector pins cause its way easier to just click a box in the ecmlink software.







If you decide your gonna swap the injector pins, here is what you do
I really appreciate this detailed response. It paints a clear image & puts it together better for me and my approach - thank you!!
 

1greyawdtsi

Proven Member
62
6
Sep 18, 2009
Seattle, Washington
now the car will start with just swapping the plug wires. so if you just want to get it started and then your going with link
Looking ahead at next weekend to pull out both motors. Then will preform maintenance: T-belt, etc..
After re-reading your response, do you have actual experience with how poorly I should expect the engine to run/perform, I mean before link (or swapping pins)?
Is it just the occasional misfire?

I don’t need to really drive the car was just curious if it’s drivable enough to test drive and move it around - until I get link. Thanks!
 

Justin DuBois

Proven Member
433
303
Aug 15, 2019
Oakland, California
Looking ahead at next weekend to pull out both motors. Then will preform maintenance: T-belt, etc..
After re-reading your response, do you have actual experience with how poorly I should expect the engine to run/perform, I mean before link (or swapping pins)?
Is it just the occasional misfire?

I don’t need to really drive the car was just curious if it’s drivable enough to test drive and move it around - until I get link. Thanks!
Stock cams, mild hesitation. totally drivable
 
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