2G Lower Ball Joint question of course!

[judas]

So, check to be sure the stud protrudes all the way up and past the uppermost portion of the nut, and you may also want to Locktite these on.

There are other lock-nut styles that may work even better than nylon locking nuts, provided the stud doesn't rotate as you tighten them home.

I have been searching all weekend and finally found what I needed in this thread!

I had just finishing replacing my passenger side, and noticed that the stud pokes up past the nylon locking nut, but on the driver's side (haven't gotten to that one yet) the stud looks flush with the top of the nut. I'm glad something went right for a change

 

[Jon Lane]

I know, its hard to believe that I don't have the time to go to Mitsu and threaten to sue them if they don't repair the recall, or get previos SEMA law cases that prove they have to.

Reviving an old thread: Does anyone have the facts on what Mits owes the 2G owner as far as lateral arm ball joint recall replacements goes? I've had the recall done once and then put three entire sets of aftermarket lower arms in, only to find myself needing another replacement. Really want to just drive to the dealer this time. After all, it's Mit's lousy part that started all this and it's a recall status part.

 

[romeen]

Mine all cracked catastrophically, so I tend to doubt that even greasing the heck out of them would prevent them eventually failing. The rubber they use is simply crap.

I'd like to know where to (1) get synthetic boots, and (2) how to drill these joints for grease fittings.

What a pathetic commentary on parts vendors, that they can't even get rubber boots right on parts you more or less trust with your life.

Old post, I know. But this info may be useful to some. You can buy true oem ball joint cover boots. Part number is MB808555. I paid $9.45/each at the local dealership. They are a true factory part and snap right into place and fit perfectly. I've had one on my car since July '08 and it doesn't show any signs of wear or leakage.

 

[1LE]

Reviving an old thread: Does anyone have the facts on what Mits owes the 2G owner as far as lateral arm ball joint recall replacements goes? I've had the recall done once and then put three entire sets of aftermarket lower arms in, only to find myself needing another replacement. Really want to just drive to the dealer this time. After all, it's Mit's lousy part that started all this and it's a recall status part.

My understanding is that it's a recurring recall. Shouldn't be refused after the first time since they replace the part with another one that has the same defect (not material defect, rather a poor suspension design IMO).

My local dealer wouldn't give me the part, said they had to do it for it to count. So, I bought the part from them and did it myself. $22 for the whole arm (glad I have a 2g, they quoted $250 for the same piece for a 1g!). Can't hardly get a balljoint alone for that much around here.

 

[jtmcinder]

You are incorrect. The replacement part does not have the original defect, so it's a one-time recall. If your car is in the database as having had the recall done, you must pay for it this time.

With that said, they are taking a loss on the arms when they sell them to you to install yourself. That's better than nothing.

 

[1LE]

You are incorrect. The replacement part does not have the original defect, so it's a one-time recall. If your car is in the database as having had the recall done, you must pay for it this time.

With that said, they are taking a loss on the arms when they sell them to you to install yourself. That's better than nothing.

What do they claim the defect is?

The defect that I see is that the suspension arm to knuckle angle is terrible (unless you lower the car, lowering improves it). Causes the boot bind up, tear, then the joint fails. My replacement arm has the same geometry as the original.

 

[97gst_spyder]

The ball falls out of the joint.

 

[bryanwheat]

What do they claim the defect is?

The defect that I see is that the suspension arm to knuckle angle is terrible (unless you lower the car, lowering improves it). Causes the boot bind up, tear, then the joint fails. My replacement arm has the same geometry as the original.

The problem is that the weight of the car is hanging off the joint, and the joint isn't really heavy duty enough for the application. Most applications have it so that the weight is pressing into the joint, not pulling on it or they use stronger joint.

 

[Jon Lane]

An EVO arm would certainly be a nice fix. Anybody?

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[Dylan0123]

An EVO arm would certainly be a nice fix. Anybody?

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Bump. Anybody got info on this?

 

[bryanwheat]

Bump. Anybody got info on this?

Those might work on a 1g, but not in any way will they work on a 2g. That is 100 percent different than what the 2g has.

 

[Linkizunlistd]

If you have had the recall work done already and the ball joint goes bad again, can you take it back to be fixed for free again? I don't see why it would be a one time deal.

 

[PieEyedPiper]

If you have had the recall work done already and the ball joint goes bad again, can you take it back to be fixed for free again? I don't see why it would be a one time deal.

Have you read this thread?

Balljoints, like many car parts, are supposed to be subject to regular inspection and maintenance procedures. Everything has a MTBF.

Go buy your $33 arm and be done with it.

 

[Linkizunlistd]

Can someone please post pictures with these different parts labeled with the wheel off on the front driver side? Lateral arm, compression arm, ball joint, cv joint, etc....all that will help just for clarification please!!! With all other names for these parts like compression arm/control arm??

Thanks
I need help.