Resolved 2G Looking for a fitting for Block

[AngelsDad]

I have a 4g63 2G, 7 bolt im in process of building i came across a problem when tearing down the block. I broke off the fitting thats in the block that feeds coolant to turbo. Its a female to male fitting that i believe threads into block im more asking for best advice on how to proceed i dnt want to mess this up anymore than i may have already. I drilled out as much of the old fitting as i could with out getting to the threads if anything i drilled to the threads, i was told best bet drill port out and re thread it and put new fitting in? Advise? Im somewhat new to all this im handy but i also know certain things you gotta go about a certain way.

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[19Eclipse90]

2G Block Coolant Line

The hole in the block is a 3/8 British Standard pipe taper thread, so you'll need a tap for that if you want to use original equipment again.

 

[pauleyman]

Don't confuse this with bspp which is British standard pipe parallel.
Why on earth only North America doesn't follow this, just like the metric system.

 

[AngelsDad]

2G Block Coolant Line

The hole in the block is a 3/8 British Standard pipe taper thread, so you'll need a tap for that if you want to use original equipment again.

Ok thanks for the info!

Don't confuse this with bspp which is British standard pipe parallel.
Why on earth only North America doesn't follow this, just like the metric system.

Noted, thanks

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

I would have tried to weld a bolt to what was broke and then extract the whole thing. You are at the point of rethreading now. Idt an easy out has enuf material to grab with out hurting the threads you have left.

 

[waltah]

This is a standard machine work problem and the more experienced guy you talk to the more possible approaches he'll have. Here's the list I know; maybe one of them would work.

1. Regardless of what method you use, soak the whole in a penetrating oil -- there are various brands. 50-50 acetone and transmission fluid also works well.

2. For next time -- yes there will be a next time: When you get into one of these get an 'Easy out' that has sharp edges -- NOT the kind with a spiral wedging action. The proper size hole is about half the diameter of the part -- you are probably past that approach now, though you could give it a gentle try. Drill your hole using a left-hand drill. You can buy sets of these and they will often take out a stub like this as they drill. If not then lightly drive in your EZ Out and -- probably -- just back 'er out.

If the hole is shallow you might have to grind off the end of the EZ Out to get a good fit.

Starting where you are now -- much more than half diameter removed:

3. Grind a small V-shape chisel to cut a shallow groove down one side, then use the same tool to collapse the left side of the remaining part of the plug into the center. You may then find it easy to use needlenose pliers to unscrew the collapsed shell. You'll have to deal with a potential leak either with sealant or by tapping deeper if it's a taper thread and you have room.

You can make this chisel from a cut off twist drill or a triangular file.

4. Drill a bit larger, right up to the tops of the threads. (Sometimes a Dremel with a straight side grinding stone smaller than the hole will let you correct for an off-center hole.) Then use a dental pick to peel the remaining thread from the plug out of the block.

5. Look for a 'thread repair' part -- HeliCoil was one trade name -- for which you drill oversize and use a special tap, and screw in a sleeve with the proper thread for your fitting. I've only used these for machine screws where the threaded hole was badly damaged but it wouldn't be surprising if they also existed for pipe fittings like this. Surely auto machine shops deal with this stuff regularly so the special fittings ought to be out there.

6. You might be able to drill and tap for the next size larger compatible fitting and use an adapter. If there is no standard adapter then a machine shop might make you one. (Good reason to have a friend with a small lathe!) Obviously have the special fitting in hand before you drill the oversize hole.

Anything that requires drilling/tapping oversize or deeper be sure to check how much metal you've got. Wouldn't want to vent oil pressure into the crankcase ...

That's all I can think of right now but I bet others here will have more ideas.

 

[AngelsDad]

I would have tried to weld a bolt to what was broke and then extract the whole thing. You are at the point of rethreading now. Idt an easy out has enuf material to grab with out hurting the threads you h

This is a standard machine work problem and the more experienced guy you talk to the more possible approaches he'll have. Here's the list I know; maybe one of them would work.

1. Regardless of what method you use, soak the whole in a penetrating oil -- there are various brands. 50-50 acetone and transmission fluid also works well.

2. For next time -- yes there will be a next time: When you get into one of these get an 'Easy out' that has sharp edges -- NOT the kind with a spiral wedging action. The proper size hole is about half the diameter of the part -- you are probably past that approach now, though you could give it a gentle try. Drill your hole using a left-hand drill. You can buy sets of these and they will often take out a stub like this as they drill. If not then lightly drive in your EZ Out and -- probably -- just back 'er out.

If the hole is shallow you might have to grind off the end of the EZ Out to get a good fit.

Starting where you are now -- much more than half diameter removed:

3. Grind a small V-shape chisel to cut a shallow groove down one side, then use the same tool to collapse the left side of the remaining part of the plug into the center. You may then find it easy to use needlenose pliers to unscrew the collapsed shell. You'll have to deal with a potential leak either with sealant or by tapping deeper if it's a taper thread and you have room.

You can make this chisel from a cut off twist drill or a triangular file.

4. Drill a bit larger, right up to the tops of the threads. (Sometimes a Dremel with a straight side grinding stone smaller than the hole will let you correct for an off-center hole.) Then use a dental pick to peel the remaining thread from the plug out of the block.

5. Look for a 'thread repair' part -- HeliCoil was one trade name -- for which you drill oversize and use a special tap, and screw in a sleeve with the proper thread for your fitting. I've only used these for machine screws where the threaded hole was badly damaged but it wouldn't be surprising if they also existed for pipe fittings like this. Surely auto machine shops deal with this stuff regularly so the special fittings ought to be out there.

6. You might be able to drill and tap for the next size larger compatible fitting and use an adapter. If there is no standard adapter then a machine shop might make you one. (Good reason to have a friend with a small lathe!) Obviously have the special fitting in hand before you drill the oversize hole.

Anything that requires drilling/tapping oversize or deeper be sure to check how much metal you've got. Wouldn't want to vent oil pressure into the crankcase ...

That's all I can think of right now but I bet others here will have more ideas.

Thanks for the info will take in consideration and go with the best option for me