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2G 2G GSX Auto major oil leak...

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Ben-Stian

15+ Year Contributor
131
29
Aug 23, 2006
NORWAY, Europe
Hi,
I have converted my Evo 2 to an auto using w4a33 gearbox. Have installed shift kit, Kiggly front clutch and Precision industries converter. Have driven it some miles, everthing OK and took it on the dyno to dial boost and check my tune since it was years ago I tuned it. Had some pulls and suddenly it started to leak alot of gearoil from the converter/oilpump area. Have not pulled gearbox yet. Removed transfer and cleaned. After a short time idling, it starts to leak... seems it leaks less in P, vs N...? Anyone knows what have happend? Should compete in a 1/4 mile race in 1 1/2 week, but think I cant make it...
 

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About 1 min idle in N.
 
Is that not the problem? It appears wet with oil...
No it might be a very minor oil leak there as well, but the major oil leak is from oil pump/converter area...
 
Doesn't look like transmission fluid though.......rear seal on engine or hex plug for oil galley leaking?
Give it the smell test and tell us what it is. Looks like engine oil or gear oil but not transmission fluid to me.
 
Smells like gear oil, I use Hy-Gard. Transfer oil are red(heavy shockproof) and very thick.
 
I have almost the same issue but Idk when I drive my car feel like it don’t want to shift automatically it likes it’s stuck in 3rd gear I have to keep my rpm low to not red the car idk if it’s the valve body or TCS...park, reverse and neutral works but drive 2 and L is like my car stuck in 3rd gear...no leaks no CEL but I want to think that it could be my TCS or one of the plugs
 

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I pulled the gearbox today and the bushing in the oilpump have started to rotate/move out and destroyed the seal. I must try to get a new bushing... I see the bushing have a little cutout/groove, where should this cutout be placed?
 
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After a lot of Googling on oil pump bushing in general, I have found out that the bearing should be notched 2 places at the inner side to prevent the bearing to spin and come out. I can see some signs in the old bearing that mine have been notched, but have spun... There must be a reason for that I believe. One reason can be that the crank have flexed. I knew the crank wasnt 100% at the mains, so I pulled the crank and the center bearing was toasted... Believe this have caused the crank to flex and cause the oil pump bushing to spin and come out and destroying the seal? I had a spare 4G64 motor lying and pulled the crank and got it polished and measured yesterday. Crank is now ready to be installed. It will be installed with engine in car. Hope I can get it finished till Thursday so I can take it a 7-8 hour drive to a 1/4 mile event in my hunt for 9`s.
Auto oilpump must be opened to install the new bushing as well. It will be some busy days...:)
 

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Ben, please provide more info on the bushing as you have time. I am pulling my pump to install the kiggly 5 plate front clutch and want to make sure it all works when I get it all back together.
I don't find it easy to pull trans or engine to go over it again!
Thanks for the pictures and follow along.
 
This is how I installed the bushing. Used a punch (I believe it is called) and notched the bushing two plages so it wont rotate and come out. There are already two places in pump housing for this bushing lock.
New crank is installed, sump mounted and timing belt aligned. Flexplate, converter and transmission is mounted in car. Some more hours and it should be finished and ready to run:) Hope to get time for it on Tuesday.
 

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Ben, please provide more info on the bushing as you have time. I am pulling my pump to install the kiggly 5 plate front clutch and want to make sure it all works when I get it all back together.
I don't find it easy to pull trans or engine to go over it again!
Thanks for the pictures and follow along.
I dont think you need to mess with the bushing for the clutch pack install. You remove the oil pump and leave it. No need to open it.
 
Thank you for the insight!! It is about time for me to dig in to her and then stab the motor so thats reassuring! :thumb:
 
Car is now finished with new crank and new bushing. Had it for a god test drive and everything seems to work very well:) Well, except for the 4th gear... First time I punched it in 4th, it broke... I have read it was weak, so now I can confirm it...:) I am heading for the 1/4 mle event on Friday, and with 26" tires, I hope to see the 9`s. At least, that is the goal:)
 
The end clutch, its right on the outside of the transmission. Yes the factory are "weak" when putting more power down and going WOT in overdrive aka 4th gear.

Were you just doing it for fun? Or were you trying to go 120+ mph? :hmm::idontknow:
 
The end clutch, its right on the outside of the transmission. Yes the factory are "weak" when putting more power down and going WOT in overdrive aka 4th gear.

Were you just doing it for fun? Or were you trying to go 120+ mph? :hmm::idontknow:
I was cruising in 4th and forgot that I shouldnt floor it in 4th... There must have been something that cracked, because the 4th is totally gone. Behaves just as putting it in "N". Nothing happens, just free revs....
 
I was cruising in 4th and forgot that I shouldnt floor it in 4th... There must have been something that cracked, because the 4th is totally gone. Behaves just as putting it in "N". Nothing happens, just free revs....
Leave the overdrive switch in the off position from now on when your under any heavy load, its for low load cruise control conditions to save fuel, not for anything else really.
 
I was cruising in 4th and forgot that I shouldnt floor it in 4th... There must have been something that cracked, because the 4th is totally gone. Behaves just as putting it in "N". Nothing happens, just free revs....

Yes, you burned up the end clutches. They are just paper clutches essentially. Easy to replace. Buy the IPT set. They hold more power.

Just curious, how much boost are you running? Any idea your power level? Oh, and how many miles on the trans? :D:sneaky:
 
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Hi,
I put down about 620-630 hp@ the hubs on my
Dynapack. 2.5 bar falling to 2.3 @ redline. Hotside is choking...
Only driven it a few miles. 4th let go first time I floored it...
Good news: I ran a 9.641 pass today which was way quicker than I hoped for. Got banned from the track and only got to drive one pass on full throttle. Drove 8 hours each way to the track, but are actually very happy as my goal was 9.99:)
There was snowing a little on the way to the track...
Bad news: started to leak gear oil again... have to figure out why it happend again...
 

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I was cruising in 4th and forgot that I shouldnt floor it in 4th... There must have been something that cracked, because the 4th is totally gone. Behaves just as putting it in "N". Nothing happens, just free revs....

Removed the end clutch and see that the splines in the hub is cracked/destroyed. Where to buy cheapest? Thanks
btw, I will setup a boost cut in software in 4th gear so I wont break it again...:)
 
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How do I choose the correct one between these 2? The gearbox are from a 2G, but have no vin from the car it was removed from...
 
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