2G 2g fuel supply line

[joejoe13]

Hi all looking for some advise.
The lovely PA rotted out my 95 GSX. After some time I found a rust free donor car to put my motor and trans in. I will need to come up with a clutch setup but that’s down the road for setups but will probably need some advice on that as well.

For now I have discovered a few problems with this car. Previous owner must have left some gas in the car and it dried in the tank and lines. Car had sat since 2011. I had no idea you could get rust to stick to the bottom of a plastic gas tank. The sending units are frozen and rusted solid. I pulled my old tank out and is ready to go into it. I did check the fuel supply line from the tank to the filter and it had a bunch of rust and crud in it so that needs replaced. I got it out but had to cut it into 3 pieces to get it out from between the firewall and subframe. I have a friend that is going to bend me a new one out of 3/8 line and flare it for me.

My question is how do you get that line back in there?

Is there an easy way of doing it. I know some people have gone ss braided and I assume that would make my life easier for an install. I think the return line is okay and thought about leaving it. The car was running fine prior to parking it other than the clutch slipping.

It has a 255 pump 880cc injectors, stock fuel rail and ECMLink v3. I didn't know if I changed lines if I would need a retune for it. If I do go ss lines, size would really help, not the best with fuel setups and flow rates and stuff. Thanks for your help in advance.

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[jdxnc]

The easiest way would be to run stainless braided line and skip the hardline. Aside from that, you need to lower the front subframe to get the hardline in or out.

 

[JohntyBee]

While I was doing my AWD swap I was upgrading my lines so I wouldn't have to worry about them in the future. Like Jason said the front subframe needs to come out to access those lines if you plan to keep them/reuse/etc. I removed my factory hardlines and replaced them with PTFE lines. The only hardlines left are the brake lines that follow the same route

 

[joejoe13]

I’m assuming that dropping that sub frame isn’t an easy task? Any suggestions on line size and if I would have to retune/get a pressure gauge

 

[DogWhistle]

I’m assuming that dropping that sub frame isn’t an easy task? Any suggestions on line size and if I would have to retune/get a pressure gauge

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[joejoe13]

While I was doing my AWD swap I was upgrading my lines so I wouldn't have to worry about them in the future. Like Jason said the front subframe needs to come out to access those lines if you plan to keep them/reuse/etc. I removed my factory hardlines and replaced them with PTFE lines. The only hardlines left are the brake lines that follow the same route

I’m assuming that dropping that sub frame isn’t an easy task? Any suggestions on line size and if I would have to retune/get a pressure gauge

 

[Dusty Landrum]

I’m assuming that dropping that sub frame isn’t an easy task? Any suggestions on line size and if I would have to retune/get a pressure gauge

Since it seems you have already pulled the oem line you will not need to drop the subframe anymore. Dropping the subframe was to get the line off WITHOUT cutting it . When you get a new AN line you can just feed it down through the back of the subframe.

Stock oem lines are around -6AN I believe so if you want an upgrade still IMO, just run -6AN braided line. What line you get is up to you. I personally use Vibrant for all my lines and fittings. But there are many many options. @Kai Hefner makes printed holders for upgraded lines just so you know too.

 

[joejoe13]

Since it seems you have already pulled the oem line you will not need to drop the subframe anymore. Dropping the subframe was to get the line off WITHOUT cutting it . When you get a new AN line you can just feed it down through the back of the subframe.

Stock oem lines are around -6AN I believe so if you want an upgrade still IMO, just run -6AN braided line. What line you get is up to you. I personally use Vibrant for all my lines and fittings. But there are many many options. @Kai Hefner makes printed holders for upgraded lines just so you know too.

Would changing those lines affect my flow rate and need a gauge put in?

 

[We're on Boost]

If you are going to use braided lines and have never used stainless braided before, it is a little nasty to work with. Nylon external braid is a lot easier to work with. My car's fuel lines under the car and in the engine bay are all nylon braided. I don't know how close the fuel line on a 2g comes to any exhaust component, but it wasn't a problem on my 1g.

You won't need a gauge just because of the line change. The change in flow rate to the regulator due to the slightly larger line will be so small it won't have any effect at all on the accuracy of the regulator.

 

[joejoe13]

If you are going to use braided lines and have never used stainless braided before, it is a little nasty to work with. Nylon external braid is a lot easier to work with. My car's fuel lines under the car and in the engine bay are all nylon braided. I don't know how close the fuel line on a 2g comes to any exhaust component, but it wasn't a problem on my 1g.

You won't need a gauge just because of the line change. The change in flow rate to the regulator due to the slightly larger line will be so small it won't have any effect at all on the accuracy of the regulator.

Yeah I have never worked with ss lines before. I did find this was was thinking of buying it instead of trying to figure out all of the pieces needed

STM -6AN E85 Fuel Tank to Rail Kit for DSM/3000GT

The STM E85 fuel tank to rail kit can be used with 1G/2G DSM, Stealth and 3000GT models. Includes everything you'll need to replace your old, rusty fuel lines and the stock, restrictive fuel filter from your factory sending unit/fuel tank to your -6AN fuel rail.

stmtuned.com

 

[We're on Boost]

Yeah I have never worked with ss lines before. I did find this was was thinking of buying it instead of trying to figure out all of the pieces needed

That kit should work really well.
The fitting they give you for the fuel rail is correct.
The problem you might run into is when you try to use the "Female Bubble Flare Fitting (614MMF)" that they give you to put on the pipe that comes up from the fuel pump hanger.
To use that fitting you first have to get off the hose barb fitting that is there in the original hose (under a crimp collar), without destroying the fitting that the hose barb is screwed onto.
I can't quite tell in your 1st picture in post #1, but it looks like you are where I got stuck a little with it, a long time ago.
It looks like you got the crimp collar off and the hose off and now the hose barb is exposed there.
Like this:
Right?

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[We're on Boost]

Here's the picture STM has that shows just the "bubble flare fitting" installed after getting the original hose off of there.
You can see they mangled the wrench flats on the old fitting with a vise-grips, pretty bad, but it's not destroyed.

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[Dusty Landrum]

Yeah I have never worked with ss lines before. I did find this was was thinking of buying it instead of trying to figure out all of the pieces needed

STM -6AN E85 Fuel Tank to Rail Kit for DSM/3000GT

The STM E85 fuel tank to rail kit can be used with 1G/2G DSM, Stealth and 3000GT models. Includes everything you'll need to replace your old, rusty fuel lines and the stock, restrictive fuel filter from your factory sending unit/fuel tank to your -6AN fuel rail.

stmtuned.com

Be sure to use flare wrenches when removing the line from the fuel pump housing line! Spray the crap out of it with pb blaster or something similar and let it sit for a day or two.

 

[joejoe13]

That kit should work really well.
The fitting they give you for the fuel rail is correct.
The problem you might run into is when you try to use the "Female Bubble Flare Fitting (614MMF)" that they give you to put on the pipe that comes up from the fuel pump hanger.
To use that fitting you first have to get off the hose barb fitting that is there in the original hose (under a crimp collar), without destroying the fitting that the hose barb is screwed onto.
I can't quite tell in your 1st picture in post #1, but it looks like you are where I got stuck a little with it, a long time ago.
It looks like you got the crimp collar off and the hose off and now the hose barb is exposed there.
Like this:
Right?

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Yes that is what I have now.

Be sure to use flare wrenches when removing the line from the fuel pump housing line! Spray the crap out of it with pb blaster or something similar and let it sit for a day or two.

Yep about to go spray it in the garage now

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

Guys......I literally just did this last night. Put the TANK FLAIR FITTING in a vice, then remove the other fitting (or in my case a rubber line). That will keep you from twisting the tube and mangling the nut for future use. From then on, that connection will break loose easier from the top, where we should service it from.
The pump hanger on the LEFT with the Aeromotive 340 on it is the one I pulled out last night. Its feed hose was on VERY tight so I stuck the flair tube into the vise jaws and then removed the rubber line that came out from under the car. Using that method, you won't kink a line or mess up a flair nut.
Marty

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[joejoe13]

Guys......I literally just did this last night. Put the TANK FLAIR FITTING in a vice, then remove the other fitting (or in my case a rubber line). That will keep you from twisting the tube and mangling the nut for future use. From then on, that connection will break loose easier from the top, where we should service it from.
The pump hanger on the LEFT with the Aeromotive 340 on it is the one I pulled out last night. Its feed hose was on VERY tight so I stuck the flair tube into the vise jaws and then removed the rubber line that came out from under the car. Using that method, you won't kink a line or mess up a flair nut.
Marty

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I like the idea of using the vice to get that off. It’s a little beat up from a previous owner but I think I can make it work. I think I will be ordering that kit from stm

 

[joejoe13]

Also I ordered the tank seals from stm but still haven’t shipped. Does anyone know where I can get them from. I’m taking about the ring gaskets

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

https://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/1990/mitsubishi/eclipse/fuel_delivery/fuel_pump_tank_seal.html

That is for a 1g AWD. I just ordered 3 last week.

 

[TheDude236]

The one I ordered for my 2g from STM came in just fine, installed fine too. Hearing the stories I have about them wouldn't be surprised if you had to give them a bit of a nudge, though.

 

[joejoe13]

The one I ordered for my 2g from STM came in just fine, installed fine too. Hearing the stories I have about them wouldn't be surprised if you had to give them a bit of a nudge, though.

I emailed them and they told me it was coming from Mitsubishi directly and should ship sometime in February. I placed the order on Dec 12th

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

I have ordered twice from STM in the last 2 months and both came in in a few days. Just sayin

 

[joejoe13]

I went ahead and bought the stm kit. Hopefully the install goes well and no leaks. Any tips for using that type of line. I have never done it before.

 

[99dsmer4g63]

I have ordered twice from STM in the last 2 months and both came in in a few days. Just sayin

I ordered a 2g ring gasket back in November along with some other things. Stuff didn’t ship for like 3 weeks. So I messaged them to get the scoop and they said the 2g sending unit gaskets were on back order and could possibly be till June till it shipped.

I found an oem one elsewhere and got them to refund me for just the gasket and then they shipped the rest.

Otherwise stuff is usually at my door in less than a week at the most.

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

I went ahead and bought the stm kit. Hopefully the install goes well and no leaks. Any tips for using that type of line. I have never done it before.

@joejoe13 , Very easy to put together. I use blue masking tape where I am going to cut the line. I use a cutoff wheel on a electric grinder. Cut in the middle of the tape to keep frays away. I even install the fittings with the tape still on. Put the OUTSIDE part of the AN fitting on the nylon braided end then lube the nipple of the fitting with WD or such and screw it into the fitting on the line. I like using my vice, obviously, but you can use 2 wrenches and accomplish it on card table or the floor.
If you need more advice, just ask or start a new thread. They are nice fittings. I love mine.

 

[JohntyBee]

I ordered a 2g ring gasket back in November along with some other things. Stuff didn’t ship for like 3 weeks. So I messaged them to get the scoop and they said the 2g sending unit gaskets were on back order and could possibly be till June till it shipped.

I found an oem one elsewhere and got them to refund me for just the gasket and then they shipped the rest.

Otherwise stuff is usually at my door in less than a week at the most.

There’s a Hyundai ring gasket that fits the same as the 2G GSX. My AutoZone couldn’t get a 2G one so I had to cross reference parts. It’s the ring and the gasket. I can get the part number later on today or tomorrow if you would like it