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2G Engine???

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RubberDuckyz

Probationary Member
26
0
May 17, 2012
Milaca, Minnesota
Hey guys,

I bought a fixer upper 1995 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS-T. I currently drive a 99 Eclipse RS...biggest reason I wanted to upgrade to a GS-T or GSX. :D Now I knew this car had been messed with by somebody that has no idea what they were doing, but I didn't know to what degree. After some research, I am convinced the motor installed into this GS-T is NOT the stock motor.

My reasons that I think it's not the stock motor:

-Multiple wires/plugs NOT plugged into anything under the hood. (Refer to pics)

-The intake mani. says ECI-MULTI (Refer to pics)

-The turbo is completely missing! The exhaust heads just drop straight down to the downpipe. (Refer to pics)
--As a side note, the body still has the IC and some of the piping still installed, just nothing attached to them. Also there are various vaccum hoses not attached to anything.

-A/C tubes hanging there, not attached.

After looking around the interwebz, I can't seem to find where this motor came from! Although I'm leaning towards a Hyundai variant.

Mission:

-Find out where the motor came from so as to have the proper information.

-Do what is necessary to find where these various plugs actually plug into (if anything)

-Decide whether or not it is a motor that I can put back to as close to GS-T condition as possible. I would LOVE to put a turbo back on it (or for the first time).

--MOST IMPORTANT: The engine will not run as it is! It turns over, sputters and seems to slightly fire on a cylinder or two, but does not actually start up!
---Not sure if the plugs/wires hanging there OR the fact that it doesn't seem (to me) to be the right motor for the shell...is the reason that it does not want to fire up.
----Note: after a compression check, I found (starting from passenger to drivers side)
-----Cylinder 1 - 150 Closest to passenger side
-----Cylinder 2 - 115
-----Cylinder 3 - 95
-----Cylinder 4 - 130 Closest to drivers side

It has spark at all four plugs, obv has air, has questionable compression, just haven't checked fuel to the rail but was told by the seller that he pulled the line and fuel made it to the rail.

Any info/advice/help of any kind is greatly appreciated! I am just trying to restore this beautiful car back to it's once original glory.

FYI, this will be my daily driver after I get her running reliably. I will not be taking her to the track or trying to get 300+ HP out of it. (At least with this current build)
 

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I believe you got a non turbo 1g head in there. Being your compression test was not that great i wouldnt worry about the loose plugs and begin to tear down that motor to see if its at least got a turbo block.
 
Sooooo...I guess my main question is, well two of them anyway:
1. Will the car still start and run...maybe not great...but run anyway on those compression numbers?

2. If the prev. owner had say maybe left the stock ECU in there and done an engine swap to a non-turbo motor, wouldn't that cause conflicts? Maybe enough to make it not run? Maybe he was a tard and didn't think of that? If so, how can I tell my ECU apart from a differen't one?

I just want this thing to run for a bit while I save up the money to either rebuild it or swap it with with a rebuilt 2G GS-T motor. My 2G RS is literally falling apart at my feet.

Just let me know if I'm asking questions that are already answered, but I just can't seem to find a definitive answer that applies to my such situation with this car.
 
Well, I can link you to the Ecu numbers, if you want me to, I can also identify by photo. nt ecus have a different pinout though (420A) cars. The 4G64 has a similiar one though.
 
So let me ask. Are you trying to start it in the condition as in the pic? I don't see a maf. Also check the cam sensor and let us know how it's connected. And you can run this motor without a turbo.
 
Sorry, that's my fault. The MAF and filter is under the battery charger in the picture. Also the air tube from the filter to intake is in the trunk/hatch. I had to remove them when diagnosing and fixing the starter issue. It just clicked, didn't turn over. Now she turns over, just doesn't start. The MAF is plugged in but obviously won't see air moving through it. Will that affect the ability to start in the first place?

As far as the Camshaft sensor goes, as far as my knowledge goes plus info on here plus my Chilton manual...it appears it's plugged in. On the other hand the crank sensor concerns me. In picture 2, that plug looks like it "could" be the crank sensor BUT I looked around a bit and couldn't find a damn thing to plug it into!
 
I believe you got a non turbo 1g head in there. Being your compression test was not that great i wouldnt worry about the loose plugs and begin to tear down that motor to see if its at least got a turbo block.

What makes you think that it is a 1g turbo head. It does have a 1g non turbo exhaust manifold, but the 1g turbo and non turbo head are the same thing, so it is just a 1g head.

Well, I can link you to the Ecu numbers, if you want me to, I can also identify by photo. nt ecus have a different pinout though (420A) cars. The 4G64 has a similiar one though.

The 420a ecu would not come anywhere close to even working on this application, so it is 100 percent not a 420a ecu. If i had to guess the stock turbo ecu is in the car.

Sorry, that's my fault. The MAF and filter is under the battery charger in the picture. Also the air tube from the filter to intake is in the trunk/hatch. I had to remove them when diagnosing and fixing the starter issue. It just clicked, didn't turn over. Now she turns over, just doesn't start. The MAF is plugged in but obviously won't see air moving through it. Will that affect the ability to start in the first place?

As far as the Camshaft sensor goes, as far as my knowledge goes plus info on here plus my Chilton manual...it appears it's plugged in. On the other hand the crank sensor concerns me. In picture 2, that plug looks like it "could" be the crank sensor BUT I looked around a bit and couldn't find a damn thing to plug it into!

The maf being plugged in and no air going thru it will cause the car to be very hard to start. IF you just want to start the engine than you need to attach the maf to a pipe that is hooked to the throttle body. The engine will run naturally aspirated with the turbo ecu. The plug that is by the throttle body that isn't hooked up is for the knock sensor, the one by the timing belt is for the ac compressor, and the one by the alternator is for the oil pressure light. You wont have a crank sensor with this setup, the cas sends signal for the cam and crank sensor if wired right. It's real hard to tell what is wrong after looking at all that rigged up stuff in that engine bay. I would start by checking to make sure that the cas plug is wired in properly, make sure that the cas isn't 180 degrees out, attach a pipe from the maf to throttle body, verify that the timing belt is installed right and then check for spark and fuel.
 
Right that's bc there is no crank sensor. Click the link. There it will show you how to merge the drank sensor plug and the cam sensor plug to the 1g cam sensor. You are getting spark but you are out of phase.
 
Sorry, that's my fault. The MAF and filter is under the battery charger in the picture. Also the air tube from the filter to intake is in the trunk/hatch. I had to remove them when diagnosing and fixing the starter issue. It just clicked, didn't turn over. Now she turns over, just doesn't start. The MAF is plugged in but obviously won't see air moving through it. Will that affect the ability to start in the first place?

As far as the Camshaft sensor goes, as far as my knowledge goes plus info on here plus my Chilton manual...it appears it's plugged in. On the other hand the crank sensor concerns me. In picture 2, that plug looks like it "could" be the crank sensor BUT I looked around a bit and couldn't find a damn thing to plug it into!

Yes the MAS needs to have air drawn through it to run properly. As for the plug that you are unsure of, its probably just the AC plug. The real crank sensor and cam sensor harness should be hacked for the 1g CAS.
 
If i remember right on the 2g the conncetors for the crank sensor and the ac compessor are the same. Pic two looks like the ac plug to me.

^ beat me to it, two post up.
 
What makes you think that it is a 1g turbo head. It does have a 1g non turbo exhaust manifold, but the 1g turbo and non turbo head are the same thing, so it is just a 1g head.



The 420a ecu would not come anywhere close to even working on this application, so it is 100 percent not a 420a ecu. If i had to guess the stock turbo ecu is in the car.



The maf being plugged in and no air going thru it will cause the car to be very hard to start. IF you just want to start the engine than you need to attach the maf to a pipe that is hooked to the throttle body. The engine will run naturally aspirated with the turbo ecu. The plug that is by the throttle body that isn't hooked up is for the knock sensor, the one by the timing belt is for the ac compressor, and the one by the alternator is for the oil pressure light. You wont have a crank sensor with this setup, the cas sends signal for the cam and crank sensor if wired right. It's real hard to tell what is wrong after looking at all that rigged up stuff in that engine bay. I would start by checking to make sure that the cas plug is wired in properly, make sure that the cas isn't 180 degrees out, attach a pipe from the maf to throttle body, verify that the timing belt is installed right and then check for spark and fuel.


Oh i know on the 420A ecu, just trying to help him narrow down the issue at hand.
 
What makes you think that it is a 1g turbo head. It does have a 1g non turbo exhaust manifold, but the 1g turbo and non turbo head are the same thing, so it is just a 1g head.
I stated non turbo. No BOV nipple and a Non turbo TB and exhaust manifold leads me to believe this. I doubt its a coincidence..
 
Alright so excuse my lack of knowledge here. (I'm a computer guy, getting better and better in the auto department)

Correct me if I'm wrong, the way I'm understanding all of this is that I have to rewire my single plug (cam sensor plug) coming FROM my current ENGINE to act as if I were running 2 sensors (crank and cam). My ECU will then be satisfied with both "sensors". This includes the process of wiring the cam sensor plug on the engine into a recieving plug for the cam sensor and the crank sensor coming FROM the ECU, correct? If this is so, where exactly is this plug coming from the ECU into probably a main wire harness? I'm only really confused as to where I am wiring my cam sensor into.

Again I apologize, this is slightly confusing in my head to grasp the concept of making a 1G n/t engine work in a 2G turbo shell.
 
I stated non turbo. No BOV nipple and a Non turbo TB and exhaust manifold leads me to believe this. I doubt its a coincidence..

I meant to write non turbo, you said 1g non turbo head, which is the same as a 1g turbo head, I'm sure you meant 1g non turbo engine.

Alright so excuse my lack of knowledge here. (I'm a computer guy, getting better and better in the auto department)

Correct me if I'm wrong, the way I'm understanding all of this is that I have to rewire my single plug (cam sensor plug) coming FROM my current ENGINE to act as if I were running 2 sensors (crank and cam). My ECU will then be satisfied with both "sensors". This includes the process of wiring the cam sensor plug on the engine into a recieving plug for the cam sensor and the crank sensor coming FROM the ECU, correct? If this is so, where exactly is this plug coming from the ECU into probably a main wire harness? I'm only really confused as to where I am wiring my cam sensor into.

Again I apologize, this is slightly confusing in my head to grasp the concept of making a 1G n/t engine work in a 2G turbo shell.

Yes, the 1g cam angle sensor does the job of a cam and crank sensor. It wires into the wires for the 2g cam and crank sensors. It appears that it i s already wired up. If the ecu that you are using is a 95-96 than you will need to swap the number 1 with 2 and number 3 with 4 plug wires, along with doing the same to the injector wires in order to make it run. If you are running a 97-99 ecu than you will not have to swap the plug wires or injector wires.
 
Ok, 1-2-3-4 relative to what?
Edit: Nevermind, I know what you mean now.

After work tomorrow I will give it a go based on this new information. I will update the thread in the evening!

I want to say thank you for everyone that posted. I appreciate all the input.
P.S. If this works....I will be passing out big fat kisses. That is, if you're into that thing! (Don't tell the GF or you'll get me in trouble)
 
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One of the plugs looks like this, correct?

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This is your knock sensor


Here is it hooked up.
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The other is the oil pressure switch of course.

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This is the CPS (Camshaft Pos Sensor)
attachment.php
 
Update:

So today I started playing with the car again. I started with filling the coolant system, putting the maf and tube back on the intake, and swapping the plug wires at the coil. I had to pull the air filter off as it is nasty, crunched, and looks to be plugged.
After charging the battery for some time, because it keeps dying overnight, I started the cycle. I turned the key for a few seconds followed by a minute or so of cooling off. Again it fires for a second but doesn't want to pick up and go without aid from the starter motor.
It only took 2 cycles of that when the next time I started it and she actually started up, ran for about 5 seconds then the RPM slowly dropped and she died. :cry:
While it ran, it was running at about 1500-2000 RPM before it started to drop.

Also as a note, I did NOT get the chance to swap the injectors after swapping the plugs. The plugs to the injectors are very brittle and are pretty stuck.

Note #2, I should have also mentioned that this car hasn't been run in 2 years or so. It sat in a field the whole time.

I'm also going to attach a picture of the camshaft sensor that appears to have already been wired to the 2g ecu. It's wrapped in black electrical tape.

Further thoughts, concerns, questions?

Also, what about this pressure sensor? This guy is just sitting here out in the open. Does it need to be installed into the intake or is it just fine plugged in but not really being put to use? Maybe just unplug it?

So today I decided to throw starter fluid onto the pistons. Well....it started up and ran for a short bit. So it runs on starter fluid and not by itself. My guess is now fuel supply. I pulled the return line, I think...I pulled the line that comes off the fuel rail closest to the drivers side. When I turned it over, nothing came out of the rail, turned it over again and a small splash came out and again nothing else.

So I pulled the back seat to check the fuel pump. First off I turned the key to the ON position and I don't hear anything. Then I pulled the plug to the pump and there are two wires, a blueish one and a black one. The blue wire had a chunk of coating pulled off like it was pinched. The bare wire section happened to be towards the bottom next to the metal of the tank. Also the blue wire at the end of the plug was slightly black colored.

Lastly I took my multi-meter to that plug. turned the key on and put positive to the blue wire and ground to the metal tank. No voltage. Did the same to the black and nothing.

Now my question is:
Is there a fuse for the pump? I can't find anything in my manual about it nor is any fuse necessarily labelled Fuel Pump. If not the case, where should I check next for voltage if I'm not getting anything at the plug?
 

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if i were you id take a quick peek under that electrical tape on the cam sensor...cause if that connections crap well itll be nothing but problems, also take a look into the fuel pump rewire search it up on here seemings how your back there and its having issues with the wiring
 
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