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2G Engine???

Posted by RubberDuckyz, Oct 1, 2012

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  1. 97SPYDER210

    97SPYDER210 Proven Member

    34
    1
    Joined Apr 22, 2008
    san antonio, Texas
    Hey bud you really need to check the injector wires at the ecu. It is possible to run on two to three cylinders.not run well but run.
     

    486  0


    · 2G DSM
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  2. RubberDuckyz

    RubberDuckyz Probationary Member

    26
    0
    Joined May 17, 2012
    Milaca, Minnesota
    I've have good and bad news!

    Went out and played with the car again tonight. I brought her 5 gallons of fresh gas again so she should be pretty clean if not have some sh**ty stuff mixed with good stuff.

    I checked the front O2 sensor. It's on and plugged in. Didn't check the physical coolant temp sensor, but I know it's working as the gauge goes up as the motor gets hot. Also checked all 4 plugs again. All dry at the electrode and wet at the threads. Also all 4 were black as black.

    While trying to start it and while running a bit, she smells like gas. Also there's definitely an exhaust leak because I get exhaust smoke from the tailpipe, the engine bay, but mostly from the rear passenger wheel well.

    The bad new is...I checked the injector wires at the ECU and they're already wired right! The previous owner wired them correctly according to the PRE instructions. :cry:

    The GOOD new is...she IDLES!!! I got her to not only run again, but also to idle at 700-900 RPM. I must have burned off enough crap gas and just all around crap that she now will actually sit there and idle. I left her running for 20mins or so without touching her at all and she never died.

    Now as I see it. She has problems, yes, but for the most part I think she's gonna make it. The only problem that really needs to be addressed before I take her out for her first drive in over 2 years is the throttle issue. She still falls flat on her face when given throttle. If you hold the throttle in, same thing. Only time you can get the RPM to go up is if you tap (feather) the pedal repeatedly and that isn't even consistant or reliable. It's really a hit and miss if you can get her to rev up.

    Any ideas? I'm going to be doing as much research as I can. So far not much luck.

    P.S. I have ordered a ODBII reader. I'm waiting on a call back to get my codes scanned in the meantime.
     
  3. 95'RS-T

    95'RS-T Proven Member

    438
    0
    Joined Mar 10, 2009
    Germansville, Pennsylvania
    The car is running rich, thats why you have to feather the throttle. Could be due to a bad coolant temp sensor, bad front o2 sensor, base timing being off, or some other things. Once you get your code reader and get the codes it will be a lot easier to figure out.
     

    447  0

    1995 Mitsubishi Eclipse GST
    · 2G DSM
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  4. 97SPYDER210

    97SPYDER210 Proven Member

    34
    1
    Joined Apr 22, 2008
    san antonio, Texas
    Last edited by a moderator: Jul 10, 2014

    486  0


    · 2G DSM
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  5. RubberDuckyz

    RubberDuckyz Probationary Member

    26
    0
    Joined May 17, 2012
    Milaca, Minnesota
    Well. That fuel pressure regulator is plugged in electrically but no hose to it. In fact none of those firewall mounted units have anything attached to them.
     
  6. miguelmcv

    miguelmcv Supporting Member

    2,275
    141
    Joined May 3, 2009
    Fresno, California
    Any pics?.
     

    Street Build 467  1

    1997 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
    awd · automatic · 2G DSM

    2K  0

    1995 Mitsubishi Eclipse GST
    manual · 2G DSM
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  7. synthetek

    synthetek DSM Wiseman

    1,536
    78
    Joined Dec 13, 2005
    La palma, California
    That doesn't matter as long as it still has a vacuum line going to the regulator on the rail.
     

    3K  0

    1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX
    13.629 @ 99.970 · 2G DSM

    Street Build 2K  0

    1995 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX
    manual · 2G DSM
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  8. RubberDuckyz

    RubberDuckyz Probationary Member

    26
    0
    Joined May 17, 2012
    Milaca, Minnesota
    Here's the two pictures I took. u2a3yvaj.jpg
     
  9. RubberDuckyz

    RubberDuckyz Probationary Member

    26
    0
    Joined May 17, 2012
    Milaca, Minnesota
    5esumuju.jpg
     
  10. RubberDuckyz

    RubberDuckyz Probationary Member

    26
    0
    Joined May 17, 2012
    Milaca, Minnesota
    So today I picked the car apart again. The coolant light is on all the time. I had it started and running again. It runs rough and doesn't want to idle when the motor is cold. Then it idles and just doesn't have throttle response down low like under 3k rpm when it's warm. I'm attaching pictures that I found to be interesting like the coolant temp sensor. tegy7enu.jpg
     
  11. RubberDuckyz

    RubberDuckyz Probationary Member

    26
    0
    Joined May 17, 2012
    Milaca, Minnesota
    Anybody?
    I pulled the plugs after running the motor a bit harder (revving, basically not idling).
    White as snow!
    upa8emup.jpg
     
  12. RubberDuckyz

    RubberDuckyz Probationary Member

    26
    0
    Joined May 17, 2012
    Milaca, Minnesota
    Got my ODB scanner.

    P0325: Knock sensor

    P0443 Evap System

    So what exactly does that mean in my case?
     
  13. sypherzero

    sypherzero Proven Member

    231
    6
    Joined Feb 14, 2008
    Marion, North Carolina
    On the knock sensor, it is screwed into the back of the engine block, facing the firewall. I didn't see it in the earlier posts if you got it plugged up or not.

    On the evap, if you look underneath the battery tray, you should find a black canister with vacuum lines running out of it. If you trace the lines, you may find your problem. It could just be something unplugged(yet again). Good luck though.
     

    Street Build 961  0

    1995 Eagle Talon TSi
    manual · 2G DSM

    Street Build 1K  0

    1995 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX
    manual · 2G DSM
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  14. gst noob

    gst noob Proven Member

    70
    0
    Joined Jul 11, 2012
    Waterloo, Iowa
    From the looks of it i would say that your car has a 6 bolt swap, that only means some one took the motor out of a 90-94 eclipse and dropped it in. I say this because your driver motor mount it whats typical on a 1g, also the CAS on a 2g is under the intake cam gear and yours is a 1g CAS located on the opposite end of the intake cam. the best way to tell if its a true 6 bolt with out pulling the motor and counting the bolts on the fly wheel is to take off the oil pan a 7 bolt motor, which is factory for a 2g will have a one piece girdle (spelling) its basically what holds the crank in. on a 6 bolt motor the girdle (spelling) is in 2 pieces. another thing you can check easily is the rear motor mount on a 6 bolt motor the rear mount connects to the block and on a bolt motor the mount connects to the tranny. as far as the sensor that is on top of your intake its the MAP sensor a bolt intake does not have a place for one thats why its plugged in but just kind of hanging out most people just connect a vacuum line to it and plug the line in to the intake some where hope this helps. that car could be one fast car with a 6 bolt motor. and if im remembering correctly the non turbo 6 bolt motors are a 4g63 with out the turbo all you have to do is put one on and pow! :hellyeah:
     
  15. miguelmcv

    miguelmcv Supporting Member

    2,275
    141
    Joined May 3, 2009
    Fresno, California
    Don't bother on taking the pan off, just look at the front pan rite under the oil pump, if it is flat, its a 6 bolt, if its oval, its a 7 bolt, but where you are now, don't bother, just focus on make it run good.

    Plug looks OK, but I suggest to replace them with NGK, which they are our #1 on our engines.
    People have reported lock of power with platinum and some other brand plugs, changing to NGK will help a ton on making your car idle better.
     

    Street Build 467  1

    1997 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
    awd · automatic · 2G DSM

    2K  0

    1995 Mitsubishi Eclipse GST
    manual · 2G DSM
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