2g clutch problems

[ballzan]

I have a 97 2g eclipse with a Fidanza flywheel and stage 2 exedy clutch. Just replaced the clutch last summer and barley had time to break it in before winter hit, had the master cylinder replaced earlier in the year this year, and just did the slave cylinder a week or two ago. Before I replaced the slave cylinder it randomly quit going into gear (the reasoning for replacing the slave). So replaced the slave bleed the clutch and it was still doing it, waited a day or so it was fine for about 15 min and back to the way it was before the replacement. So we adjusted the Master cylinder rod, got it back to normal but again after some light driving 10-15 miles it was back to doing it again. It will go into gear just fine with the car off so I know its a clutch related issue, any idea?

 

[bryanwheat]

You either still have air in the lines of the new master cylinder is bad. That is somewhat common with part store master cylinders.

 

[H@xtGSX]

Also, be sure to check the line couplings. If any of them are leaking after the cylinder replacements, you'll be pushing fluid out and pulling air in very slowly.

 

[ballzan]

You either still have air in the lines of the new master cylinder is bad. That is somewhat common with part store master cylinders.

We actually just got done bleeding the thing tonight and still did nothing, it was working fine after the new master cylinder was put in for about a month so I guess it could have went bad already.

 

[H@xtGSX]

The seals on the piston are notorious for nicking in the first few strokes, and then shunting fluid.

 

[ballzan]

The seals on the piston are notorious for nicking in the first few strokes, and then shunting fluid.

Well the first time it went bad I was loosing fluid from the reservoir and was loosing clutch pressure and this time neither is happening so that's why a bad master cylinder didn't even cross my mind and since I just had it replaced.

 

[H@xtGSX]

I went through 2 last time... Changed the clutch and the cylinders. The 1st MC I got shunted right out of the box.

 

[2gprpletsi]

not super positive but alotta times a new master will kill a slave and vice versa...thats my experiance had it happen to me both ways, something to look into best of luck man

 

[punxnotdead185]

I would have to say I agree that your master may have taken a dump already. As best I can remember DSM's don't have a pilot bearing or I would say maybe that is going bad also.

 

[ballzan]

I would have to say I agree that your master may have taken a dump already. As best I can remember DSM's don't have a pilot bearing or I would say maybe that is going bad also.

Ordered a new master cylinder which should be here Monday, so hopefully that will fix the issue but if not I will post.

 

[ballzan]

Just put in the new master cylinder today, replaced the slave last week but still issues. Blead it and adjusted to where it was barley going into gear, after a few times struggling it started working fine going in easy but now it barely goes in. I have to put it into second then go to first and its hard when driving and shifting from first to second too, even harder when shifting from third to second etc. Any ideas?

 

[mattasi]

After you bleed out the line, do you also bleed out the slave by pushing the rod in and then tighting down the flare nut?

 

[ballzan]

After you bleed out the line, do you also bleed out the slave by pushing the rod in and then tighting down the flare nut?

Don't believe we did, never heard of doing that I guess. Will try that hopefully tomorrow and see if that makes any difference.

 

[Roberti 2G]

Did you check out Jacks transmission s video on how to properly adjust the master

 

[Dert]

Make sure you buy an OEM master cylinder, if you bought a cheap one such as exedy it will be a far shorter throw than OEM. I had bought an exedy master when I bought my exedy stage 2 clutch and I had a hell of a time shifting once the car got warm. Bought an OEM master and it shifts like butter all the time now.

 

[ballzan]

Make sure you buy an OEM master cylinder, if you bought a cheap one such as exedy it will be a far shorter throw than OEM. I had bought an exedy master when I bought my exedy stage 2 clutch and I had a hell of a time shifting once the car got warm. Bought an OEM master and it shifts like butter all the time now.

Got a OEM from autopartswarehouse and we bleed it, get it adjusted to where it will shift just fine but it slowly becomes unshiftable as I drive it after about 20 miles its back to where I started. I blead the lines and didn't bleed the slave so it could be getting air in the lines but i'm not loosing clutch pressure. Just happened a few minutes ago actually, had to shut off the car to get it into gear at a stop sign.

 

[PieEyedPiper]

Got a OEM from autopartswarehouse and we bleed it, get it adjusted to where it will shift just fine but it slowly becomes unshiftable as I drive it after about 20 miles its back to where I started. I blead the lines and didn't bleed the slave so it could be getting air in the lines but i'm not loosing clutch pressure. Just happened a few minutes ago actually, had to shut off the car to get it into gear at a stop sign.

And it's not the 2g pedal pump up issue?

 

[Dert]

Air must be getting into the lines somehow, or something is
Not adjusted right, could also be possible the master is faulty, it has happened to some in the past.

 

[bryanwheat]

And it's not the 2g pedal pump up issue?

Pedal pump is the opposite of what is happening. When that is happening the clutch won't engage all the way. He is having a problem of the clutch not disengaging all the way.

Got a OEM from autopartswarehouse .

Do you know what oem means? That means buying the factory part from the dealership. The one that you bought is not oem, it is either pbr, nabtesco, beck/arnley, or centric. They do not offer an oem master.

 

[PieEyedPiper]

Pedal pump is the opposite of what is happening. When that is happening the clutch won't engage all the way. He is having a problem of the clutch not disengaging all the way.



Do you know what oem means? That means buying the factory part from the dealership. The one that you bought is not oem, it is either pbr, nabtesco, beck/arnley, or centric. They do not offer an oem master.

You're right, I got it backwards.

 

[Dert]

I agree with Brian, an auto warehouse more than likely doesn't stock actual OEM, you can get them off vendors like extreme psi for around $120 or so. A lot of auto stores stock OEM replacement but isn't an actual OEM part.

 

[ballzan]

I agree with Brian, an auto warehouse more than likely doesn't stock actual OEM, you can get them off vendors like extreme psi for around $120 or so. A lot of auto stores stock OEM replacement but isn't an actual OEM part.

Yea wasn't thinking when I posted, I checked and its centric I think but I don't imagine it should make too much of a difference should it? Did watch jacks transmission video so I know how to adjust the master and can get it adjusted to where it shifts like butter and then after driving it for a bit it slowly works its way back to being unshiftable. I assume air is getting into it some how, don't loose clutch pressure or the resivour doesn't seem to be getting lower so that's why I assume air, no slippage either though just can't get it into gear first from second with out shutting the car off then from first to second and so on its really rough and it barley goes in. Reverse grinds super bad and if I manage to get it in then it gets stuck in reverse and I have to shut it off. Like I said ill try to bleed it again cause I assume still air.

 

[Dert]

It will make all the difference, I had a brand new exedy master, would shift fine at first untill the car warmed uo, then I could not shift hardly at all, tried adjusting, re bleeding, everything. Bought and actual OEM from a vendor, installed it and have 0 issues since install. It shifts like its a new car.

 

[ballzan]

It will make all the difference, I had a brand new exedy master, would shift fine at first untill the car warmed uo, then I could not shift hardly at all, tried adjusting, re bleeding, everything. Bought and actual OEM from a vendor, installed it and have 0 issues since install. It shifts like its a new car.

well shit, just spent about $73 on this one! When it went out the first time I took it to the dealer and had it fixed so I might just have to do that again, but that sounds like my issue, the warmer it gets the harder it is to shift.

 

[Dert]

Check extreme psi, I believe that's where I got mine, you can install it yourself instead of paying a dealer, it's only 2bolts, can be tricky to get to but still easier than paying a dealer hundreds of $$ for something you can literally do in 20 min. An OEM from the dealer might cost a lot more than a vendor.