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Road Race Build 2G Auto Time Attack race build!

ec17pse

Freelancer
5,274
2,523
Nov 1, 2008
London, UK, Europe
Another good weekend and happy with the results.

I had set out a plan and what i wanted to get done and i think i done pretty good considering some slow parts.

Sat morning was spent finishing up the under side and added bracing for the trailing arms. This was something i wanted to do a while ago and because i cut all the support metal away it was more idea now to have this then have nothing even though oem is just some thin sheet metal as a support. This is much more strength now.
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I then went onto the inside trunk area as i had 2 rust holes in the corners which i believe were from the trunk drains leaking over time and water/salt from the underside did not help either. Made them from alloy and sealed with sealant so they wont rust no more and can be replaced if i ever need to. I first made the internal curve support frame and riveted it to the metalwork then over sized plate to allow more rivets to the surrounding metal.
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I then moved onto my wing and i have been here before but last time i made the uprights from alloy and i was not super happy with it in the sense of strength and how bulky it looked.
So with that in mind i opted to make them from tube, this will make them alot stronger and open it up more, its not the most amazing looking setup out there but looks for me are 2nd vs structual strenth.

After sat was over i left with the single cross bar and hated this so i did some research on what others have done to make it look better and be very strong.
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So sunday morning arrives and i have a baseline idea of mounting a cross bar but after a sample i scrapped it and came up with a different way of mounting it instead of my small tab idea previously.
Im quite happy with the outcome and it barely moves anymore so im pleased this is done. It just needs cleaning up and then painting.
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I then welded the bungs in the floor for the pedal unit i made but has to come out again as i put the bliming masters in the wrong side so i gave up and moved onto the next part.
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To end the day i started the passenger side window surround for the poly windows. I got the basic shape but ran out of material anyway and its only tack welded onto the plates i riveted to the door. This will have to be for another weekend and i still have to make the tabs for the frame yet also.
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All in all it was s good weekend and quite alot done.
 
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ec17pse

Freelancer
5,274
2,523
Nov 1, 2008
London, UK, Europe
Another weekend and another items almost checked off the list! I finished up the passenger side window frame work and mounted it for now, my dome bolts never made it in so for now these socket caps will hold it in place till they arrive. The frame work is 8mm solid steel and each tab is holed for M6 bolts. It also has two tabs on the toor and frame for vertical supports which are still to be done. These will add felxing support and also help keep the curve of the poly window and keep the seal onnthe rubber which is another reason why i opted for 8mm bar rather then 6mm as i could hand bend 6mm but tough to hand bend 8mm

I actually tried to heat up the plastic over the oem glass to see if i can curve it but it did not work out. I got it hot but i might of been a bit scared to over heat it so nothing moved or set in a curve. I might go talk to the company over the road monday as they thermo form aircraft plastics so wonder if they can heat it up for me and let it sit over the glass. Worse case they say no but i would have tried.

The drivers side is welded and just needs cleaning up then painting and installing.

One thing i dont know if i should do now is cover up the frame and tabs by installing some carbon vinyl i have coming to give it a cleaner look or do I keep the frame shown? Thoughts were to do it but now im not 100% sure it will be good or even look right and im kinda not wanting to take away any viewing area so i guess a trial is in order to see

I think i wanted to get abit more done then i did today but i did waste 45mins heating the plastic so im still happy with the progress thus far. Tomorrow will see this done and onto the last stage to do at work which is make my side skirts!

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ec17pse

Freelancer
5,274
2,523
Nov 1, 2008
London, UK, Europe
Hey all. Back in work this weekend and plans are to start the bodywork! Yay (i say yay but its a pita to do)

More details on this will be shown once the sides and fenders are all complete as i wish to show you them once done.

I stayed late friday night as i wanted to finish off the rear quarter poly windows. I went and started to use rivnuts but quickly realised it was a bad idea so i just did the front ones and the rest i used the alloy rivits as they dont pull as much as steel or stainless ones due to their lower break off point.

I know i used fake carbon on the surround but i did not want it just black so i went for something to match the rear light center piece and it looks good still but i know fake carbon sucks LOL
I used window sealant on these also so they are bonded in real good and the rivets helpedkeep its shape and curve as these were not thermo formed windows just like the front ones.

The fuel filler neck and drivers air scoop is in also and awaiting the next stsge of hooking it up.

Thats all i got done friday night.

Sat morning i got stright onto the rear window and got that all glued in, this js not having any rivets at all, just the glue as its much nicer here and should be plenty strong enough, if i have issues later on i shall do something but not now.

I also started the sideskirts / air channels but no pics of this till its complete and fenders are also done!

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ec17pse

Freelancer
5,274
2,523
Nov 1, 2008
London, UK, Europe
Not much to report but it was a messy weekend this one. Im prepping the underside for the anti rust and protection coating, damn its dusty so much dirt was stuck to the car! I think i dropped a few kilos getting it all off LOL.

Rear is done but next up is the middle section and then the front wheel wells and hopefully next week the coating comes in for me to get this done and get the car back together.

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arrowhead

Proven Member
923
60
Apr 19, 2011
miami, Florida
I really dont like the idea of the fuel filler neck, I would not place it on the quarter window.
I think you will have spillage all over the plexi and down the side of the car, if later you want to go to a dry-break system, the plastic will not hold up to a dump can.

Mandy
 

ec17pse

Freelancer
5,274
2,523
Nov 1, 2008
London, UK, Europe
I really dont like the idea of the fuel filler neck, I would not place it on the quarter window.
I think you will have spillage all over the plexi and down the side of the car, if later you want to go to a dry-break system, the plastic will not hold up to a dump can.

Mandy
I got the windows in hard coat for that reason of spillage. Its fuel and chemical resistant. I shall have to see how it goes. Its polycarbonate hard coated (makrolon) its not the cheap plexi glass.

One day i will afford a drybreak setup but i cannot justify the price right now. The fittings alone are crazy then their is the fillerneck itself! I can only dream.

I also wanted the filler out the way of the bodywork and nothing to hit it as it sits outside so the window was my idea from a long time ago but i could not fulfill this till i got the windows installed. It may not be everyones ideal location but its certainly more comfy in this placement i feel
 

arrowhead

Proven Member
923
60
Apr 19, 2011
miami, Florida
It is still a polycarbonate.
How are you going to refuel or maybe only fuel up, funnel, can with a spout?
If you are using a close to stock tank location, I think the best is the stock filler.
Even a 5 galon can at that height gets pretty heavy, but if you like it there, fine with me.
 

ec17pse

Freelancer
5,274
2,523
Nov 1, 2008
London, UK, Europe
It is still a polycarbonate.
How are you going to refuel or maybe only fuel up, funnel, can with a spout?
If you are using a close to stock tank location, I think the best is the stock filler.
Even a 5 galon can at that height gets pretty heavy, but if you like it there, fine with me.
it is but you do get different versions and plexi and poly cannot be compared in no way as they are far from different.

i have a VP fuels 20 liter tuff jug and its easy to pick up with the spout, if i wanted to spend a few more pennies i would look into the dry break caps which would only release fuel when i push down on the bottle but for now i will use what it came with till i either get annoyed or find its messy to refuel. the fuel tank is not stock anymore as thats been redesigned also to allow fast fill and full roll over shutoffs.
 

ec17pse

Freelancer
5,274
2,523
Nov 1, 2008
London, UK, Europe
Been a while since an update but im not given up on the car! Its just slow progress now as many thing happening and imat a point where alot to do but not alot can be done in one go so taking it somewhat steady paced with aims to finish it over christmas and ready to tune in jan.

Biggest things thus far are the trans which i have rebuilt the valve body and modified it for the shift kit.
I also installed the red alto end clutch kit while i was at it.

Another bit i worked on was the trans pan in which i modified this to allow an extra 1/2 liter of fluid and it also has a stong magnetic pan plug and now an in pan temo sensor port so i can log in two locations.

Under coating is fully done and sprayed on. Once i firgured out how to use the gun as the Italians wrote the instructions they they suck for telling you anything LOL it all went on just fine and done two coats. So should last along time now.

Other then that im just working on the bodywork and aero parts on the side but those will be shown once its all bolted on and the cars got its new color and details on! Super excited on this part to be done!

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ec17pse

Freelancer
5,274
2,523
Nov 1, 2008
London, UK, Europe
Apart from the subframe which some of you have seen on the sale thread i have been putting the car back together and along the way had to make some door covers.
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Last piece of my fueling setup was the filler hose and vent / roll over pipes which im 99% done with now. I just have to make 2 more holes and locate the roll over pipe below the tank so it never leaves if it goes upside down. Although i never plan to do this of course i still have to make sure its built to specification.
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The last stage is getting this back to work as im halfway through prepping a tube front end for the new cooling setup im putting in place. Alot of work but hopefully this will do all the cooling i need and more for the future!
 
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ec17pse

Freelancer
5,274
2,523
Nov 1, 2008
London, UK, Europe
I cannot wait to see this thing turn laps in anger.
Anger! I hope not LOL. Need to stay calm and relaxed when racing. Im only angry on the normal roads with stupid drivers hahahaha
 

ec17pse

Freelancer
5,274
2,523
Nov 1, 2008
London, UK, Europe
Lol!!! Not like "anger" as in mad. Just "anger" as in pushing hard LOL. 10/10ths LOL.
Oh that.... Yeah i plan to push it once i learn the car again and see what i can do. Its going to be a new learning curve but fun at the same time
 

95REGF150

Proven Member
433
218
Mar 7, 2012
Elk Grove, California
Looking good Bobby. I like the filler setup personally. Looks very track derived like the location you see on the LM cars and such. I don't see why it would be any harder to keep gas off the side of the car there than it is in the factory filler location.

Subframe and door panels are killer too. When's the last time you got a weight on the car? Thing has to be getting light for sure.
 

ec17pse

Freelancer
5,274
2,523
Nov 1, 2008
London, UK, Europe
Looking good Bobby. I like the filler setup personally. Looks very track derived like the location you see on the LM cars and such. I don't see why it would be any harder to keep gas off the side of the car there than it is in the factory filler location.

Subframe and door panels are killer too. When's the last time you got a weight on the car? Thing has to be getting light for sure.
The filler cap location was for ease of height pumping a big ass 20 liter tuff jug into it. In the factory location and recessed i have seen issues with other cars spilling fuels and i dont want this issue so the window was the optimal place i thought that was easy to install and strong without getting into the metalwork.
I wouod of loved a drybreak system but fittings alone are alot of money and a setup will cost me near 1k without a jug! No thanks for that and better things to spend money on thats for sure!

As for weight i have zero clue now. I weighed it years ago with factory interior and AC and near 3/4 tank of fuel and it sat at 1340kg.

The cage added weight and the bodywork will also but i have tried to take it out in most places as i gone along so i hope to have at least taken more out then i have added in??? Tricky one to guesstimate this is. I will see once its all ready to fire up with fuel in as i got scales to check it all out for setup.

Have to finish off the drivers door panel as i got the shape mimiced but not drilled or anything yet.
 

ec17pse

Freelancer
5,274
2,523
Nov 1, 2008
London, UK, Europe
Been trying to mock this up since summer but i kept getting stopped doing other things. I got most of it done and got stuck on the next step but i might do that next step (which is the lower beam to be done) on the actual car and not on the mock up chassis.
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Plan is to bring the race car into work over christmas and the following week as i gotsome bits i need to do and make for brackets and placement of items.
 

ec17pse

Freelancer
5,274
2,523
Nov 1, 2008
London, UK, Europe
The normal Christmas post LOL

Every year i work on the car due to boredom! This year i made sure work was clear and free for my car to be in because i have a huge undertaking to do and i needed to be at work for lots of fabrication and all the tools i require are there so it made sense plus its not outside on the floor freezing cold LOL.
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So what im doing here is a few things on my todo list. One of which is to get rid of the last major bit of rust! Infact this might be the last part of rust on the car now as everything else was cut out and re welded and then all under coated! Major work but much better after it is all done.
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While chopping this out i have opted to tube the entire front end from the oem crash bar mounting points. I did not opt to go further back due to the engine in place but also i use the front for my tow straps and want to keep them. It also means in the future i will find a way i like to do it all and can include the tow straps whithin that design. Not to mention im time limited on this over the holidays.
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Yesterday i did finish off the upper cross over bar support thing. Which ever its called, (forgot to snap a pic) I designed it to work with push quick release pins as i would like to be able to take the bumper off in around a minute and not 15 and needing to jack it up. I will redo this upper section as it works but i ended up not liking it and the way i did it but it might be that im not used to it yet so i will see what my views are over the year.

I have also finally managed to make my coolant swirl pot as i planned this late 2018 but never finished it as i always wanted to make it on the car for perfect fitment and angle. The inlet is also on the top which is the correct place for it coming out of the engine and feed to the rad is the lowest point! I see so many on google putting the outlet to the rad st the top! But thats where the air is so you end up pushing more air around the system. The way i done it means water always sits at the bottom and air to the top and can never get pushed through,
The only thing i did was change the height and took 60mm off the height overall as it was getting close to some bits and i have a sensor in the bottom to worry about. This was not ment to have a rad cap on as i ment to relocate the cap to the low pressure side of my new rad im making but i forgot and its on here so its going to stay since the oem setup works this way fine it will still be fine like this.
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Last part is i have 100% finished the subframe now! Made my 4 point brace and cross member and its all welded up and can go powder coating in the new year.
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More updates to come once i get to them stages and snapped some pics
 

ec17pse

Freelancer
5,274
2,523
Nov 1, 2008
London, UK, Europe
Another few days and i got some good progress done.
Well today was good but yesterday not so much as i messed something up and it ment needing to wait till the evening to go grab the part in my garage as i needed it for mock up.

So because i was kinda stuck i messed around with the small little bits here and there like removing some rust in the bay area and prepping for an undercoating before normal paint applied, reinforcing the in car cover plate for the oem fuel covers as thats where my brake line T is and it moved around and also added my driver cooling ducting Y connector as i made it to drain out so if any water gets inside it has some where to drain and not sit in the ducting rusting it.
Another thing thats bugged be for ages is in the wheel well area in the front are 2 gaps (1 in each side) and no covers but its got nuts welded inside like something went there! So i got fedup and wanted to stop any water getting in or dirt and i made some covers for these. Finally sorted that out and 1 huge bug off my shoulders.

I finished the front end now and the cross bar is in and welded. Its nice and much smaller then the oem setup is which is great and more compact.

I have also changed a few things but its because of 2 things which is funds and time! I would like to do things a little differently as i have done now and plans were to do that but i am time limited at work and budget is another thing but....... I can revisit these bits later.

So my original plan was to make all nee coolers for everything! Rad, intercooler and 2x cores for trans and oil and this ment i was going to make a different bumper support but im now only getting a rad core so for now i have kept the oem crash bar for the main reason of bumper support and the intercooler fitment. I chopped into it a bit and put my mounting brackets inside vs outside and it fits really nicely. I was able to get a good amount of angle on this and im only covering 20mm up top which is not alot and may even add holes in the bottom to allow a small amount of air flow to enter but likely wont do much to be honest.
To get this angle i had to rework my intercooler pipes and this was not big deal. Outlet side was easy snd needed trimming down and re beading and the inlet side needed 1 cut and weld so was a simple job to do. Its now much more compact away from the floor and tighter to the frame work. While i did this i did not know what to do with the oem harness that ran along the bottom but i found it fits inside the crashbar prefectly and allows everything to connect up in its normal spot so thats a nice touch to get it out the way. I was worried where and how to store this. So im happy i found this way out.

Next step is mocking up lower rad mounting so when my core turns up i have somehwere to mount it to. Once thats done i can make the full ducting and surround and this is being vented out the hood vent and past the turbo to take as much heat out as possible.

Thats about it from me currently. Next up is working on my EWP system and removingnthe timing belt for the frontkine block off plate and weld an elbow on for the AN bung.

Enjoy the pics and progress as im very happy with what i done thus far and is starting to really look like how i imagined it to be like.

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ec17pse

Freelancer
5,274
2,523
Nov 1, 2008
London, UK, Europe
Final update for a while as i dont have anything else to do now till i get my rad core in.

But this was the last peice done today. Took longer then i thought but it was tricky getting the right space around it to bolt removel/install and angle for my adjuster for my alt im planning but settled with this as as its final resting place.

Note to all doing an EWP setup! When you go this route you leave open a gap in the cover and things could find their way in so i opted to make a small bolt on cover protector to help seal the gap up. Dust can get by but nothing medium or large. Small details like this adds time to figure out and do it right.

But this is now ready for the pump and lines and rad to all be done together.

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