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2G Adjustable tubular Rear upper suspension arm / wishbones, With R/C adjustment. (Closed)!!!!!

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EC17PSE

Freelancer
5,867
3,448
Nov 1, 2008
London, UK, Europe
Hello Tuners and welcome to my first item of suspension I have developed!

This is the first part of my suspension items im rolling out with other items to follow some time soon.

Central hole in bracket will now be removed leaving just the outer and inner hole as pictured in the last picture.

These are Rear upper wishbones with adjustable roll center adjustment brackets.

Made from CDS (seamless) steel tube all Tig welded with very strong Chromoly rod ends (kevlar injected) with rubber dust covers and laser cut brackets and all hardware is 12.9 grade socket capped bolts and flanged nylocs!

They will be cleaned then zinc primed and powder coated a matte black finish!

These weigh in at 4.3 LBS for the complete kit/side, moving parts weigh in at only 2.7 LBS!

Oem with SPC or ingalls adjusters weigh in at 5.4 LBS and moving parts are 4.1 LBS and the Galant is a little lighter then Oem.

The arms offer -2.2 degrees of camber and also +1.5 camber. Each hole on the outer bracket is spaced equally to offer precise adjustment for both sides.

The Inner bracket is a little different then anything else for our cars as I have made it to incorporate inner pickup adjustments which allow you to adjust roll centers and find that good setting for getting the best out of your setup and ride height of your car, This was done to counteract the bad effect lowering your car has to the suspension system and controlling arm movement is critical for mechanical grip

I have been running mine with great results! it is a little noisier as to be expected as its now not using any rubber on them and its alot stronger too.

Effects of Rear Roll Center Adjustment (each car is different and will respond differently)

Rear roll center affects on- and off-throttle situations in all cornering stages (entry, mid, exit)


LOWER roll center

+ More on-throttle grip

+ Less grip under braking

+ Use to avoid traction rolling at corner entry (increases rear grip)

+ Use under low traction conditions

+ Increases traction, reduces rear tire wear


HIGHER roll center

+ Less on-throttle steering

+ Car is more responsive

+ Use in high grip conditions to avoid traction rolling

+ Use on tracks with quick direction changes (chicanes)


Please read details

Price is $370 Shipped via Fedex, Fully tracked and insured and all items ship from the UK.
I will end this in mid JAN 2017 and I hope to have everything in and done ready to ship end of Feb 2017, I will keep the group notified here or PM's of course through out the build.

PAYMENT
I will start off with a half deposit to secure and when the list has filled up and closed I will ask for the rest before I start to do the final ordering! I wont be doing swap with deposits from 1 person to another as it creates issues I would rather avoid.

Please ask any questions or anything at all and I thank you for reading.

Lets help me get some very useful adjustable arms out on the market for our cars, This will help me progress with the other suspension items I plan to bring out and sell aswell and the more folks that buy these the more it can proceed to go ahead and become another item on the market for us,

List of people buying suspension arms.

1. mountain_man (paid) SHIPPED!!!!!
2. iLeagleracing (paid) SHIPPED!!!!!
3. Apache (paid) SHIPPED!!!!!
4. TheLemon (paid) SHIPPED!!!!!
5. llxkevinxll (paid) SHIPPED!!!!!
6. mitsumikey (paid) SHIPPED!!!!!
7. Dsmcrzy (paid) SHIPPED!!!!!
8. 95eclipser (paid) SHIPPED!!!!!
9. jls_frog (paid) SHIPPED!!!!!
10. T2Small (paid) SHIPPED!!!!!
11 Ceedawg (paid) SHIPPED!!!!!

12 Rival (paid) SHIPPED!!!!!
13 Phudu2004 (paid) SHIPPED!!!!!
14 TSIAWD666 (paid) SHIPPED!!!!!
15 Eclipse 1998 (paid) SHIPPED!!!!!
16 Xska555 (paid) SHIPPED!!!!!
17 96dsmftw (paid) SHIPPED!!!!!
18 Asexton6969 (paid) SHIPPED!!!!!
19 Slowwhite (paid) SHIPPED!!!!!

ALL SHIPPED!!!!!!!!!!!

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Last edited:
you all can now reply to this sale/thread and ask any question you may have,
 
No worries, been a long time coming for any aftermarket type arms for our cars,
 
I had a question the other day about the outer bracket and if the bolt hole would deform at all from the way they are laser cut! here are some pics of them holes as I just want everyone to see they are perfectly ok and not moved a bit, with the flanged nyloc and it clamped together there is not much chance of it moving.

All the brackets are 3mm thick so are super strong and bigger then the oem units,
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Will this be a one time thing? Or do you plan on making more in the future? I would love to get these but I'm in the middle of an engine build/new turbo setup so I don't have the play money for suspension right now.
 
Will this be a one time thing? Or do you plan on making more in the future? I would love to get these but I'm in the middle of an engine build/new turbo setup so I don't have the play money for suspension right now.
Im not sure as of yet, I would like to do them again sometime in the future (unsure when exactly).

depends if they sell well as i cannot do 1 off's due to costings and prices would be super high and not even worth looking into doing, but I would like to take a leap of faith and say yes they will be around in the future as Im sure they will sell fine
 
Are the rod ends/heim joints a common size, if so what size or do you know if they make a boot for them? Would there be any benefit to putting a heim joint in the top of the knuckle as well?
 
Are the rod ends/heim joints a common size, if so what size or do you know if they make a boot for them? Would there be any benefit to putting a heim joint in the top of the knuckle as well?
they are common threads, 5/8 UNF to be exact. they will come with rubber boot covers as standard. you cannot use a heim on the top of the rear knuckle it just wont bolt down ok like the fronts would, you could have the bracket and then weld a thread on the backside for adjustments but thats also eating away into the shock space and ive made them to work with OEM sized shocks with lowering springs of course and if I did it the other way then its limiting to only people with coilovers only as a guess.
 
My bad i meant to say spherical bearings in the upper knuckle bushing.
oh i see what you mean now, well sure anything can be done but thats upto the owner to do that upgrade like greengoblin (kevin) has done to his, most will use poly bushes in place of the stock rubber ones but the spherical would be a bit harder to do compared to a bush you slip in, a ring groove is needed to retain it so thats machine time and its not exactly easy to setup on a machine from not being so flat haha.
 
I had a question the other day about the outer bracket and if the bolt hole would deform at all from the way they are laser cut! here are some pics of them holes as I just want everyone to see they are perfectly ok and not moved a bit, with the flanged nyloc and it clamped together there is not much chance of it moving.

All the brackets are 3mm thick so are super strong and bigger then the oem units,

I've seen first hand what 285 Hoosiers can do to the chassis of a DSM.
The easy solution would be to just drill 2 holes and use the rod ends for fine adjustment.
The more elegant solution would be to make it a slot and weld some tabs onto the arm and use a cam washer like on the SPC 73620.

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I've seen first hand what 285 Hoosiers can do to the chassis of a DSM.
The easy solution would be to just drill 2 holes and use the rod ends for fine adjustment.
The more elegant solution would be to make it a slot and weld some tabs onto the arm and use a cam washer like on the SPC 73620.

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I wanted to stay away from essentric washers just because ive had mine slip and they can still slip no mater where they are, basic function is good but not what i wanted plus they add alot more in terms of weight aswell.

I originally did think of having just 2 holes and that ment just no oem location hole so it would automatically come with -1* of camber then it would offer something like +2.5* of adjustment due to no oem hole so it puts it into the do i make everyone have camber strsight off the bat, as i have left -1.5* in the rod end and +0.5* in the rod end aswell and i dont have room left in the rod for anymore as to keep the rod end strong and safe.

My design is much better then essentric washers and if essentric washers are ok to use in the outer bracket then mine are perfectly ok for the task,

The other thing i originally thought about would be to space the holes out a little more but when i mocked it up it was thinner and only the main shoulder was slightly thicker but overall was no different in effect then what i have now really,

So ive been though a few ideas already and this bracket was like my 4th revision and about my 7th redesign.
 
Any chance on pushing the close of this out to march? normally tax returns come back for me in march. earliest I've even gotten them back was last week of febuary. And that was after filing, the day after I got my paperwork from my job.
And for me I have 4 kids and a wife, (christmas gets expensive ), then January, 2 of my kids birthdays are 2 weeks apart, and then the wife's birthday is February.
 
Any chance on pushing the close of this out to march? normally tax returns come back for me in march. earliest I've even gotten them back was last week of febuary. And that was after filing, the day after I got my paperwork from my job.
And for me I have 4 kids and a wife, (christmas gets expensive ), then January, 2 of my kids birthdays are 2 weeks apart, and then the wife's birthday is February.
Im afraid i cannot do that, ive set a date and I would like to stick to my date and plusnit would delay others aswell and I understand your situation as it does get expensive,


I will try my best to help you out and get you involved on this for the first lot.
 
I'm in, but have to wait till January. Make sure you notify us at least a few days ahead of time before you close this out. Winter just started and I'm already over budget on working on the car.

Would it be possible to get this with just the outer two holes drilled? I run -2 degrees in the back at the very least and do not need to get it as close to stock as possible.
 
I'm in, but have to wait till January. Make sure you notify us at least a few days ahead of time before you close this out. Winter just started and I'm already over budget on working on the car.

Would it be possible to get this with just the outer two holes drilled? I run -2 degrees in the back at the very least and do not need to get it as close to stock as possible.
I can pre warn you of course.we all go over budget haha

As for the holes, they are laser cut to ensure 100% accurate to each other. I will have to try do a good drawing tonight to show how the holes work better for everyone to see. it goes like this though.

With the rods set to my spec'd length i have built them to and using the middle hole it sits it as oem arm length, the hole inside gains neg camber and the outer most hole gains pos camber, I did this as I know not everyone wants lots and lots of neg camber so its there to allow the guys more adjustment and playing around without the ever need for bulky thick washers or shims like the spc units get sent with which are a hefty chunk of metal LOL

Because they are programmed into the laser cutter I can change it but then doing that 1 alone would be a special and the rest would be the same and its not my design to take away adjustment ranges, and its soon going to be everyone wants something added or taken away so I would rather leave it as the way ive designed it and just never use that hole.

I myself will most likely never ever use that hole either to get pos camber but its there incase.

Add the fact the inner mounts now move up aswell it gives alot more adjustment and fine tuning to not only get the best camber setup and 1 person may be super low but needs to gain pos camber thats what that hole is there for.
 
LOL Ok, no problem.

I'm barely lowered in the rear, but still want my camber. teehee

My only concern, as ileagle mentioned, is race tires. Autocrossing really shocks the shit out of the chassis and suspension components. I redrilled my front control arms, somewhat like yours, but had a buddy weld washers around the new holes for some extra strength. I'm not sure if I needed to, but it was precautionary.
 
LOL Ok, no problem.

I'm barely lowered in the rear, but still want my camber. teehee

My only concern, as ileagle mentioned, is race tires. Autocrossing really shocks the sh** out of the chassis and suspension components. I redrilled my front control arms, somewhat like yours, but had a buddy weld washers around the new holes for some extra strength. I'm not sure if I needed to, but it was precautionary.
I had some AD08R tires on and they are track tires and they worked well with the arms, i dont do autocrossing though but ive pushed the arms a good amount to make sure they are upto the job designed for.
 
Which holes are oem spec?
the middle hole on the outer bracket for the knuckle is the hole that mimics the oem holes location when set at the right length
 
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