The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support ExtremePSI
Please Support Fuel Injector Clinic

2003 eclipse not chargi

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

KingBlue95

Probationary Member
9
0
Jan 15, 2015
kuna, Idaho
i did an engine swap in my 2003 eclipse and it had some idle issues at the beggini.g had to replace some sensors wich fixes that mostly and about a week latwr it quit charging had battery and alterbator checked and both are good ive owned 3 eclipses and 1 talon and never had this problem
 
When the motor turns over is it a very weak crank?
 
2.4 or 3.0? How did u confirm that the battery and alternator are both good? Tested in or out of the car?

Sounds like loose/damaged wiring between the alt and battery causing a poor connection. I'd start at the battery terminal connections and work my way to the alternator. I'd also check the alt fuse. Maybe something came loose, contacted the alt terminal and blew the fuse.

A very loose belt can also cause charging issues. It may or may not squeal...
 
2.4 or 3.0? How did u confirm that the battery and alternator are both good? Tested in or out of the car?

Sounds like loose/damaged wiring between the alt and battery causing a poor connection. I'd start at the battery terminal connections and work my way to the alternator. I'd also check the alt fuse. Maybe something came loose, contacted the alt terminal and blew the fuse.

A very loose belt can also cause charging issues. It may or may not squeal...
 
its is the 2.4 i had battery and alt checked at autozon and batttery is fine and alt is putting out 14.5 i ran a new ground and a new positive wire ffrom alt to battery and still nothing fuses look to be fine is there a voltage regulator in the ecu
 
2.4 or 3.0? How did u confirm that the battery and alternator are both good? Tested in or out of the car?

Sounds like loose/damaged wiring between the alt and battery causing a poor connection. I'd start at the battery terminal connections and work my way to the alternator. I'd also check the alt fuse. Maybe something came loose, contacted the alt terminal and blew the fuse.

A very loose belt can also cause charging issues. It may or may not squeal...
Thirded :hellyeah:
 
The voltage regulator should be built into the alternator itself. Going along the lines of the possible loose wiring you could also check the connectors at the alternator itself. Check the connector pins in particular. Look at the female side to make sure that the pins are going to "clamp" or "squeeze " the male pins on the alternator. Is there a battery light? If so does it come on? Lastly I have seen batteries test good, but once a load is put on them they drop voltage like flies and keep dying. Try charging battery then turn the headlights on for say 5min. Then turn headlights off and check battery again. What that does is gets rid of any surface charge that battery has and gives you a better idea of the health of the battery.
 
There is noot battery light and i glanced ovwr all my wiring last night it was raining so couldnt do much but no wirws looked melted and is there a chance the voltage regulator could be bad? it will start and run fine with a fully charged battsry but once you disconnect the battery it just dies
 
That could mean that the car is running solely on the battery voltage and no voltage is being supplied from the alternator itself. So the battery would not be getting a recharge from the alternator and would eventually die when the voltage was used up from running the car. Do you have a service manual handy? One that would have a circuit diagram you could look at?
 
Don't EVER rule out new parts. Especially alternators I've seen a few places give up to 3 in a row "re-man" alts, all being bad until they gave a full refund and gave a working one for free.
 
i dont have a book could my voltage requlator be bad?
Don't EVER rule out new parts. Especially alternators I've seen a few places give up to 3 in a row "rcould my voltage regulator in my alt be bade-mcould my van" alts, all being bad until they gave a full refund and gave a working one for free.
 
The voltage regulator is part of the alternator where the harness plugs in. It could be bad but you said the alternator tested fine...

Did they test it in the car or did you take it to them and let them bench test it?

What was the original issue that caused you to have the battery and alternator tested?
 
I took both of them into autozone and they tested fine is there anouther voltage regulator in the computer? my eclipse runs but once i disconect the battery or it runs out of juice it dies and when i replaced the engine i put new heat wrap over everything so it couldnt of melted from heat right? i checked all the fuses and all are perfect.. could any of it have anything to do with the computer?? i even redid some new grounds and a new positive wire directly from the alt to the battery an-d still nothing
 
you need to get both ecu pinouts one from your car and one from the swap and see if the wires from alternator are in the same locations.
 
the alt is the original pne fdom my old notor the new one was just the block and head i put all ny old stuff on the new motor so the computdr should be reading it as my old motor right?
 
do you have a multimeter.
quit charging had battery and alterbator checked

This website is for the 1g and 2g Eclipse. You have a 3g :)
Anyway, I own an 8g Galant with the same motor and have worked on it a lot, so I might be able to help.

inthemidst is going down the right track. Do you have a voltmeter/multimeter? You need to check what the battery is reading while the car is idling and when it's off. Unsure of where/how you got the battery and alternator tested, but those auto parts stores aren't always the most reliable.

Do you have an aftermarket stereo, aftermarket alarm, or anything similar? These devices sometimes have a standby mode that continues to draw amps even when the car is shut down and parked. This will drain the battery.
 
Last edited:
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top