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1Gb Talon Rust Revival

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Such a clean car deserves AC imo!

And for the stock IM, nothing helps more than a stubby, 12mm ratchet wrench. I would go buy a new one before I ever try to pull a stock IM without it haha
Funny you say that...I opened my stubby wrench pouch and I am missing my 12mm stubby. I was pretty pissed to say the least. Have no idea where it could be! Managed to do it with a regular one. :)
 
Lots to do so I jumped right in this week. First thing I did, is take @habitatguy187 advice and get myself a new 12mm stubby! :D

stubby12.jpg

I started off my yanking out the A/C. I looked it over and there were a few hardlines that were pinched and/or cracked. I had no pressure in the lines. I also, would need to fab up a new AC fan if I wanted to continue using it. I kept everything I could in case I want to re-install in the future, but man it's nice to have all this space in the engine bay!
boxofstuff.jpg


Then, I started to get everything I need off my old TB and onto the new S90. I use an FIAV blockoff that still allows use of the ISC. With my idle problems, I want as much control as I can get. Also got myself a new TPS while I was at it.
fiavblockoff222.jpg
tbchangeout.jpg

I got a coil bracket to mount under my new Intake Manifold when it arrives. I went with a JMF for that as well. This is approx how I'll have the coils setup. This will bolt onto the old AC compressor location. Utilizing the same bolt holes.
coilbracket.jpg
coilpackonbracket.jpg

of course, I also clean the threads on the block. This is where the new coil bracket will sit.
blockrthjreadsclean.jpg

When removing the A/C, the compressor bracket acts as a spacer for the axle bracket. Most people just keep the compressor bracket installed, but I didn't want it in there taking up space, and I also needed the mounting location. I did some measuring and eventually found the right combination to make my own spacer using nuts/washers. the original bracket is 8mm thick, so find something that is about that thick and you're good to go. This is what I came up with. The bolt for this location is an M10, so I used a thin M12 nut, with an m10 washer and it was the correct thickness I needed. These are class 10.9 fasteners, so plenty strong.
spacercomp.jpg
spacermade.jpg

While I was down there I noticed my main power steering pressure line bracket was looking nasty. So I removed it and blasted it. I'll coat it black for protection.
steeringbracketbefore.jpg
steeringbracketsclean.jpg


I currently have just a boost gauge and an EGT gauge, but I think it's time to upgrade to wideband so I ordered an Innovate LC2 and decided I wanted to change up my gauges to AEM X-series, so I have a new boost gauge and an oil pressure gauge on order. I also had to order a triple-pod instead of the double I currently have. I got to work removing the old EGT probe from my exhaust manifold. This is an EVO3 ported manifold I got way back when. I'll just pop a plug in the hole for now.
egtremoval.jpg


While I have the radiator out since I was removing the condenser, I noticed under the condenser unit there's a little rust forming on the frame. I removed it, etched it and primed it for now. I'll use POR15 on this part like I did on the underside of it.
rustframe232222.jpg

I have a bunch of parts on the way, so hopefully I'll have plenty to do when I have a few days off over Thanksgiving.​

 
Didn't get a ton done this week. I finished up the frame in the front. I POR15'd it, then topcoated with basecoat and clear. Went with the color of the car instead of the stock black.

por15frontframe.jpg
paintedfrontframe.jpg


I got a few things in this week. I bought new gauges as I want to update the technology and what I'm monitoring. Before I just had a Defi boost and EGT gauge. I ordered up an Innovate LC2 Wideband kit with gauge, Aem X-series Boost and oil pressure gauges as well.
newgauges1.jpg

Previously I had my gauges in a double-pod for the pillar. I got myself a triple-pod. I'm just not a huge fan of having them in the vents or the steering column. Maybe one day.
gaugepodbefore.jpg


Since my interior is gray and tan, I can't have a black pod, so I painted it a decent match to the stock interior. It's SEM Graphite interior paint.

before/After:
3gaugepod.jpg
paintedgaugepod.jpg


Began the tedious and boring task of getting the wiring run through the dash and through the firewall when necessary.
gaugewiring.jpg


These bad-boys also arrived. JMF Race intake and fuel rail.
jmfintake11.jpg


Got the S90 installed onto it.
jmfintake1.jpg


The harness connector for my oil pressure gauge was broken so I have a new one coming (returning that one) and I plan to get more done next weekend as I have a few days off. Have a Happy thanksgiving guys!
 
Lots of updates for you guys this week. I'm taking a break from installing the gauges because it's so damn boring, so I decided to get the coil pack and ignition control module all squared away in the engine bay on the new bracket on got. Pretty straight-forward. Here's how I have them setup. I used a brake line bracket I had lying around to secure some of the wiring to the bracket itself as well. It sits in the engine bay where the compressor bracket was bolted. Looks great and puts the coils and ICM near where they were stock.

coilonbracket.jpg
coildbracketbottom.jpg
coilbracketinstalled.jpg


Next up, I wanted to take care of the holes in the firewall where the AC lines enter the cabin. I had some aluminum sitting around so it was easy enough to fab a cover.
accoverplate.jpg


I had to see what the new IM looked in the bay, so I threw it in there to check fitment.

im1.jpg
im2.jpg

It sits MUCH lower than the stocker, and just BARELY clears the fuel filter with the S90 installed. You could say the fitment is perfect.
Well, since I did that, I might as well see how the new fuel rail looks too. I needed to get new fuel connections for this rail as they are much larger than stock. These are -10an ORB to -6an flare connections.
fuelrailnew.jpg

and installed.
imwithrail.jpg
imwithrail2.jpg


The new IM has a vacuum plate with 5-ports welded on the back. That's all I need so I put the fittings on I need, where I think I'll need them. Since the ports are located on the bottom of the IM, they are all facing down toward the ground. I wanted a few facing in different directions. Mainly the brake booster hose and PCV port. I got a few 90degree barb fittings for those.

Here's what I came up with: PCV, BOV, MAP, Brake booster and FPR.
hosebarbsim.jpg


I had a new brake booster hose sitting around...well, they don't make them anymore for 1gs so I believe the replacement is from an EVO 9 or 10. The stock one would still work with what I did with the barbs above, but I figured if I could use the new one I wanted to. Here's the new one next to the stocker. Quite a bit different. The good news is the valve is way up near where it connects to the brake booster so you can modify it pretty easily.
brakeboosterhoseoldnew.jpg


I ended up cutting off about half the hose. Here it is installed on the new IM.
newbrakeboosterhose.jpg


With having a new IM, I knew the engine harness wasn't going to work so I decided I'd better to a mini wire-tuck so I don't have wires just hanging out all over the place. I mainly need to take care of everything from the injectors forward. Always makes me nervous messing with 30yr old wires that have been exposed to a million heat cycles...
First, of course, was removing all the plastic coverings, loom, electrical tape.
wirecoveringcrap.jpg
30yroldloom.jpg


The wiring is most brittle nearest the connectors. Just moving a few of them around cracked the wiring. Good thing I have a Sheridan Engineering kit with all new connectors. I had to replace a few injector connectors as well. One of them had just a few strands of wiring on one of them. Surprised it was even working. The good news about making new connections, is I can do it much better than factory.
crackedwires.jpg
newfinjplug.jpg
newwiringcovered.jpg


With the loom and junk off, I can get to work. The plan is to clean the wiring of grime, wrap in Tesa engine harness tape (it's what BMW uses for their harnesses), then wrap in Techflex for more protection and because it looks cool.
remioovingloom.jpg

then wrapping it all in Tesa Tape.
tesacovered.jpg

then Techflex sleeving. I cleaned up some of the ends where I could with shrink tubing as well.
newtechflexcovering.jpg
covering.jpg
 
This weekend was all about finishing the wiring harness and redoing some fuel lines...
wiringcoveresdone.jpg


I decided to route the main bundle underneath the coil bracket. You can see where I zip tied the bulk of it to the small hole on the bracket. Keeps it nice and secure.
fuelbundledone.jpg

With that done, I could remount the intake manifold and start to figure out the fuel rail/lines. New hardware and new fuel injector seals.
intakleinstall.jpg

**I gotta say though. I thought it would be much easier to access the bolts to mount this one up compared to stock. I would have to say it was worse. The bolt locations are under each runner. the problem with this is there isn't any room between the bolt heads and the runner itself to fit a wrench on the bolt head. There's no using a ratcheting stubby or even a socket on the bottom side. You have to use an open ended stubby and even then it's such a huge pain in the ass to only turn each bolt (by feel), MAYBE a 1/4 turn each time you happen to find the right angle. Thankfully, you don't have to tighten these bolts down too much.

Since this new fuel rail is a bit longer than the stock one, I could no longer mount my AFPR right on the end of the rail. I had to figure out how/where to mount it. The obvious choice is on the firewall. This meant I had to fabricate new fuel lines to/from the FPR.

First thing was replacing the fittings on the FPR itself.
fprconnections.jpg

Here's where I decided was the best place for it.
fprrelocation.jpg

This put the FPR and the fuel rail almost directly inline with each other as you can see by my mockup of 90 degree fittings.
fuelinelinedup.jpg


I needed to make a new line for this small distance. I've learned that one of the most crucial parts of making your own lines is a good cut. I use these to help make great cuts. these work great with braided stainless lines. Cuts like butter.
fuellinecutter.jpg


Then jam the ferrule on there, make sure it's completely seated on the line and put on your connection. These ferrules are not reusable, so buy yourself a bunch of spares.
fuelineferrule.jpg

Here's the completed line. Looks pretty damn clean IMO. I ended up cutting about 8 inches off the fuel return line and redoing the connection to make it work with the new location of the FPR.
fuellinesredone.jpg

in order to do it this way, it's necessary to trim part of the timing belt cover to make clearance. Here's how much I ended up trimming and how tight I made the clearances. I don't like things that move to touch each other. I'll make the timing cover much prettier looking later.
clearancefuelrail.jpg
clearancefprline.jpg
clearancefprline2.jpg

Next up was re-installing my injectors and wiring under and in between the runners for a clean look.
fuelinjectorwiresdone.jpg
newfuelrailinstalled.jpg

I also relocated my MAP sensor to a spot lower on the firewall. Not only does it look cleaner, but makes the vacuum line even shorter, which is better.
maprelocation.jpg
 
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Still working on some random odds and ends. Smoothed out and repainted the timing cover. Primed, then painted flat black.
paiontingcamcover.jpg


Continued covering and rerouting the wiring harness while that was drying. I covered the bundle near the thermostat with wider Techflex covering so it was easier to manage and secured at the starter loom holder.
wireloom222.jpg


Decided to get the fuel injector plugs all secured with the metal clips. Had to take the rail off in order to access the back side of the connectors. then I ran my spark plug wires to their new locations.
routingplugwires.jpg


I also got my new speed density intake piping/filter in from STM, so I test fit that as well.
newintakepipe.jpg

Engine bay is coming back together...

engineputtogether.jpg
 
I've had the 3g wiper nozzles sitting around for a bit so figured I'd work on that yesterday. They don't just bolt up to the original lines like stock as they have a 90deg bend built into the nozzle itself. I wanted to eliminate the crappy looking mess of hoses that runs along the bottom of the hood anyway so I knew I'd need to figure something out. The goal was to run the hoses INSIDE the hood to the nozzles, so that's what I did.

I used one splitter for the entire process. Left go to passenger side nozzle, upper goes to drivers nozzle and right goes to the pump. I used fishtape to run the hose through the hood, then pulled a section out from here to do the rest.
hoodhosesetup.jpg

This is what you see.
new squirtersinstlled.jpg


I ran one solid hose, with no barbs all the way to the pump/reservoir. Here's what I eliminated...including the crusty yellow hose, which I've always hated looking at.
oldsquirterhoses.jpg


Here's what it looks like completed. Just the one hose going up into the hood on the driver's side. I made sure it doesn't get pinched when the hood is closed and gave it a little slack in case the hood is opened wider.
squirtershoses22.jpg
newhosessetup333.jpg
newsquirters.jpg


I then measured and mocked up a new upper intercooler pipe now that I have the S90 on. I'm going to run 2.5". I'm no welder, so I calculated the lengths/cuts, etc and will have a friend weld it all up. I also marked where to install the bung for my IAT and the flange for a new TIAL bov. I'll prob get it powdercoated wrinkle black to match the intake tube when all is said and done. Basically just as you see here. I have a 3" to 2.5" reducer at the TB, and I also have a 45deg coupler down at the intercooler. So, a 90deg, a 45deg and a straight section is all it will take.
intakepipingmockup.jpg
 
I've had the 3g wiper nozzles sitting around for a bit so figured I'd work on that yesterday. They don't just bolt up to the original lines like stock as they have a 90deg bend built into the nozzle itself. I wanted to eliminate the crappy looking mess of hoses that runs along the bottom of the hood anyway so I knew I'd need to figure something out. The goal was to run the hoses INSIDE the hood to the nozzles, so that's what I did.

I used one splitter for the entire process. Left go to passenger side nozzle, upper goes to drivers nozzle and right goes to the pump. I used fishtape to run the hose through the hood, then pulled a section out from here to do the rest.
View attachment 683715
This is what you see.
View attachment 683717

I ran one solid hose, with no barbs all the way to the pump/reservoir. Here's what I eliminated...including the crusty yellow hose, which I've always hated looking at.
View attachment 683720

Here's what it looks like completed. Just the one hose going up into the hood on the driver's side. I made sure it doesn't get pinched when the hood is closed and gave it a little slack in case the hood is opened wider.
View attachment 683721View attachment 683718View attachment 683719

Is there a inline check valve on the 1G? 2G has an inline barbed coupler with a spring and ball check valve to keep the lines from draining back to the pump.
 
Is there a inline check valve on the 1G? 2G has an inline barbed coupler with a spring and ball check valve to keep the lines from draining back to the pump.
Good question. I'll have to check and see tomorrow. If anything it's the one I removed at the yellow tube. Easy enough to re-install at that same point. Thanks for the heads-up.
 
Is there a inline check valve on the 1G? 2G has an inline barbed coupler with a spring and ball check valve to keep the lines from draining back to the pump.
There doesn't appear to be any check valves on the 1G. at least not on mine. I checked all the barbs. It's not a bad idea though. Thinking of adding one anyway.
 
What a goldmine. Incredible thread. Glad you’re documenting all the detail.

And just my opinion, but stripped-down roll cage and weight reduction builds just aren’t for me. Love seeing the focus on cleanliness, sound deadening, audio, and all the little details along with the power and performance.

Thanks for all the detail and great pics, super satisfying to watch it come together.
 
What a goldmine. Incredible thread. Glad you’re documenting all the detail.

And just my opinion, but stripped-down roll cage and weight reduction builds just aren’t for me. Love seeing the focus on cleanliness, sound deadening, audio, and all the little details along with the power and performance.

Thanks for all the detail and great pics, super satisfying to watch it come together.
I appreciate that! Welcome to the show. ;-) I agree, I'm not into the roll cage/weight reduction rides. Not my thing. I want power, but also the amenities and comfort. Believe me, it killed me to pull the A/C...the only reason I did was because it hasn't worked in years so I figured I wasn't missing anything. Besides, who doesn't like having the window down and hearing that sweet spool of the turbo.

I see you have a 92 Camaro....I had an 85. Was my first car. Loved that thing. Have been meaning to pick another one up when I have more garage space.
 
I appreciate that! Welcome to the show. ;-) I agree, I'm not into the roll cage/weight reduction rides. Not my thing. I want power, but also the amenities and comfort. Believe me, it killed me to pull the A/C...the only reason I did was because it hasn't worked in years so I figured I wasn't missing anything. Besides, who doesn't like having the window down and hearing that sweet spool of the turbo.

I see you have a 92 Camaro....I had an 85. Was my first car. Loved that thing. Have been meaning to pick another one up when I have more garage space.
I totally agree. But for me have to find a way do everything and keep AC or I'd never be able to drive it down here! Will definitely look forward to the very few weekend days a year to put the windows down though..
 
I totally agree. But for me have to find a way do everything and keep AC or I'd never be able to drive it down here! Will definitely look forward to the very few weekend days a year to put the windows down though..
Yeah, Florida for sure gotta have AC. We get muggy af up here but not an everyday thing like you guys.
 
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