1Gb Talon Rust Revival

[92AWDHX40]

Looks good I like the wago setup.

 

[92AWDHX40]

What adhesive did you find for the knee panel.

 

[Silverspyder]

What adhesive did you find for the knee panel.

Just regular old Gorilla glue...nothing fancy

 

[92AWDHX40]

Ok thanks that's on my list to do. After my pedal rebuild.

 

[Silverspyder]

This week I needed to tackle the huge rust hole underneath the driver's side fender. You remember this hole?

I cut the new piece out of the donor part I was sent awhile back.

Lots of trimming and hammering and I got it damn close.

Before I tacked it in, I wanted to take care of the interior of the tunnel as best I could. I used Fluid film and sprayed as far down the tunnel as I could, then used POR15 as far in as I could reach. I mainly wanted to get the inside of the closest trim clip as it was getting pretty rusty.

I then needed to prep the patch panel. I wanted to make sure the inside doesn't rust out again, so I used Weld Thru II on both sides to help with corrosion.

I have the panel tack welded in place and will stitch weld it in place next weekend. I ran out of time today.

 

[92AWDHX40]

I didn't do a weld patch just used some sheet metal. Turned out okay for me.

 

[DreamChaser7]

I wouldn’t have used the fluid film I’ve seen bad things in testing after that was used. I suggest the Eastwood internal frame rail coating, it changes the rust molecularly. Either way great job and keep it up love the build progress!

 

[Silverspyder]

I wouldn’t have used the fluid film I’ve seen bad things in testing after that was used. I suggest the Eastwood internal frame rail coating, it changes the rust molecularly. Either way great job and keep it up love the build progress!

Interesting. I'll check it out. I used FF because I've been using it on the bottom of my pickup for the last two years or so and it still looks flawless and I'm in the rust belt. I like Eastwood stuff so I'll check it out, thanks!

 

[DreamChaser7]

honestly I can’t remember if it was a fluid film review that scared me so much now or something else. I reckon it’s a little subjective. I believe you have to keep reapplying that stuff though. And make sure not to get it on any rubber or wiring components.

 

[Silverspyder]

honestly I can’t remember if it was a fluid film review that scared me so much now or something else. I reckon it’s a little subjective. I believe you have to keep reapplying that stuff though. And make sure not to get it on any rubber or wiring components.

Yes, FF you have to reapply as it will just wear away eventually. Using inside the tunnel in this case I think it'll last pretty close to forever. I'm going to get the Eastwood stuff and use it inside the frame though and see how it holds up.

 

[Pjj]

honestly I can’t remember if it was a fluid film review that scared me so much now or something else. I reckon it’s a little subjective. I believe you have to keep reapplying that stuff though. And make sure not to get it on any rubber or wiring components.

i use fluid film on my battery terminals, all along the wheel well arches, etc. with water splashing on it all winter i had to reapply it once? fluid film is great i use it on all the joints throttle body springs, driver seat bolts etc in the daily runner. its great stuff once you get over the smell of it. 10/10 would recommend

 

[jamel16]

I wanted to get the gauges all done this weekend, BUT I basically re-did everything I did last week too. I just wasn't a fan of the bullet connectors and how they looked...it was quite a mess under there, so I found some wire connectors. Basically WAGO's. Figured I'd give them a shot. They are small and they hold the wires nice and tight.
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I have a 4-in-1 and a 5-in-1 I used. four powers and five grounds. Worked great and takes up way less space and the best part is they are re-useable and easy to swap out. With lots of routing an re-routing of wires under the dash, I managed to get everything nice and tidy and in it's place using the add-a-fuse in the "cigar" fuse spot. It's a 12v switched fuse as I was able to successfully calibrate my wideband O2 sensor.
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While I was under the dash, the foam around my vent opening disintegrated so I replaced it

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I also got the boost gauge connector and wideband controller all buttoned up under the radio where the shifter cables are behind the ECU. On the engine side I tee'd off of the FPR line to intake manifold.

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Next was getting the new wideband O2 sensor installed in the stock location (I'll simulate narrowband using ECMlink). In order to reach it I removed the power steering pump and bracket as well as dipstick tube. A pain in the ass, but makes it much easier. Surprisingly the O2 sensor came out nice and easy.

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I routed the new controller wiring through the engine bay along the same route as the stock one. It was a tight fit, but it fit in the stock holder as well. I used the stock clips on the exhaust manifold as well.
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While I had the PS pump out, I noticed the PS heat shield was looking a little rough, so I sandblasted it, primed and re-painted it. Looks pretty good now.
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Everything all bolted back up. Eventually, I'll get a stainless PS heat shield.
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Be careful with those wago type connectors. I had my aem gauges wired up in a similar fashion with those type of connectors and kept popping fuses. I couldn’t figure out for the life of me what was going on. Even went as far to rewire the entire panel with new aem gauge harnesses. Only to find out that connector was grounding out on the inside. Ditched that mess and went back to terminal buss bar.

 

[Silverspyder]

Finally got the new patch panel all situated but had a bit of a detour while I was doing it.
I got the new patch all welded in. Had to stitch weld it since the metal is so thin here (about 18 gauge). I'm no welder, but I got it done and it's solid. Here it is all welded and grinded smooth.

While I was getting it all cleaned up and smooth, I decided to go further back just a little as I noticed some rust, so I wanted to clean that up while I had the grinder out.

This area was hiding so much more. Here it is again after grinding away the surface rust.

A little exploring and cleaning the rust away from these new holes it uncovered and some smoothing of edges.

I decided the best course if action was to make a few patches with some sheet metal I have lying around for this very reason. First I made a template, cut the patch and screwed a bolt through the center so I had something to hold onto.

Then it was time for some fiberglass bondo like I did a few pages back.

While that was drying I re-applied the seam-sealer on the new patch panel.

Decided to clean up the rest of the pinch welds on that side as well as they were looking pretty gross after 32yrs.

Next up was applying POR15 to the new panel and the pinch welds. Any bare metal got por15...and since this was a previously rusted out area, I wanted to protect it as best I could. I will be reapplying Fluid Film on the inside as well to cover the Weld-thru that's already on it.

Next weekend I'll primer and paint body color. Then I can finally get the trim piece and fender back on.

 

[Silverspyder]

Finished up the patch and lower door sill area this weekend. While I was prepping the new patch panel for paint. I noticed a bubbling of some rust on the door sill. I sanded and smoothed it to also prepare for paint.

I did a lot of sanding this weekend. I used filler to fill the low spots from the welding process and make it smooth and to recontour with the body lines.

I also POR15'd the pinch welds after grinding the rust off last weekend.

first thing I needed to do was protect the area from paint.,

then primer. I used about 3-4 coats until it was where I wanted it to be. then 3 coats of base, followed by 2-3 coats of clear.

I also decided to pain the bottom of this fender trim piece as it was showing the yellow of the original plastic from many years of road wear. This was when the basecoat was still drying. Looks much better now.

Next weekend I'll cleanup the trim pieces, re-install the tape and get it installed again.

 

[Silverspyder]

Continuing on...

Replaced the fender sealant. Both sides.

Before I got the sideskirt back on I wanted to make sure the inside was protected so it doesn't rust out again. someone had mentioned Eastwood's internal frame coating before so I tried it out. It's very similar to POR15, but in spray form. I used the included attachment which allows for all around spray in tight spots. I went along the entire interior of this area for good measure. Then did the interior of the frame on this side where I could.

Next up was preparing all the parts for re-install. But first, I noticed the bottom of the side skirt was looking pretty faded and in some spots the yellow of the raw plastic was showing through. I needed to fix that.

While that was drying, I decided to reroute the opil pressure line I installed a few posts up. I ended up not loving the routing I took along the wiper hose. Plus, it was making the hood not close as smoothly as it could. I decided to run it alongside the power steering line.

I had a lot of old tape to remove. I also cleaned up the inside of the trim pieces.

I used Eastwood's Rust Encapsulator on these metal brackets that hold the clip in place. If these rust out, I 'm screwed. then I installed all new clips/screws on all.

The installed new 3M moulding tape.

Body parts everywhere.

 

[DreamChaser7]

someone had mentioned Eastwood's internal frame coating before

Eastwood, Eastwood, Eastwood! Love everything I’ve got from them so far.

 

[92AWDHX40]

Looks good im doing similar to sand and paint in the same area.

 

[Silverspyder]

Not much of an update. Worked on getting the fender and plastics all setup perfectly. With 32 yr old plastic that has been warped over time, it wasn't fun. Having new clips in all the proper places made it difficult to line everything up the way it should be.
Primed and cleared the backside of the other fender since i had it off to replace the moulding tape.

The driver's side fender proved more difficult to install for some reason. This bolt hole on the new piece I replaced was all messed up so I heli-coiled it.

Cleaned up the threads too on all the other holes. Lots of crud.

I don't think I've ever seen the bumper cover and fender line up this well before.