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1Ga HY35 Street/Strip Build

Rob88

Proven Member
74
0
Jul 1, 2007
Portland, Oregon
This is my 1Ga I picked up a while back and it got back burnered when I sent a rod out the side of my Galant VR4.

I picked it up at the end of 2012 for $900 and drove it home. When I got it the engine bay was pretty clean (Main reason for buying it). It already had DSMlink, 680cc injectors, walbro 255, Evo III 16g, ETS Street FMIC Kit, KYB GR2s, Megan Lowering Springs, GM MAF Translator setup. It ran pretty bad and when I got it home found out it had a blown intake manifold gasket. Fixed it and got it running good only to find out ALL of the rod/main bearings were toast.

About 6 weeks ago I decided to take it down to the machine shop had them hone it and check the rod/main clearances for me. I reassembled it with 1G rods/2G Pistons, ACL Bearings and ARP Rod Bolts (Yes, I resized for the ARP fastners). I tore the head completely down and rebuilt it with New Engine Builder valves, Valve stem seals, Manley Springs and titanium retainers. Through in some Comp 101200 cams and some cam gears I got off ebay. They needed the dowel pin hole bored out and had no timing marks. So, I copied my old ones and made them work.

I finally got the engine assembled about 2 weeks ago. Used a SS intake manifold I picked up for cheap 1600cc Precision injectors, Turbonetics T3 Manifold, 38MM External wastegate, Holset HY35, Custom down pipe setup and a Custom intake setup. I will be wiring a Walbro 255 In-Line fuel pump in today or tomorrow. I plan to use Link to turn it on based off RPM, Load and TPS through the Fuel pressure solenoid. I haven't seen anyone do this yet so we will see how well it works. I went with an ETS 3.5" Race intercooler kit to keep the intake temps down and the car will be tuned on SD of course.

Here are a few pictures of the car. I wish I would have documented it better but I've been on a time crunch trying to get it done in time for IFO on 9/1.

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I had to rebuild the Clutch pedal assembly. The job isn't to bad actually.
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rogergoochman

Proven Member
86
0
Jun 24, 2003
toledo, Ohio
you got that for a steal with just the parts that were on it, even with the issues. Good luck with your build!
 
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Rob88

Proven Member
74
0
Jul 1, 2007
Portland, Oregon
Ya, no complaints here. I am in it just under $3k and it runs and drives. I will find out how well on Sunday during IFO. That cheap, fast, reliable rule may turn out to bite me.
 

Rob88

Proven Member
74
0
Jul 1, 2007
Portland, Oregon
Well, I took it to IFO and on the first pass the shifter cable came apart. I got to do the whole pass in 1st gear. LOL. I got that fixed and will be running it at the track on Saturday. Friday if the weather is nice here. I have it tuned on 34PSI on E85 and it pulls HARD. Currently I have been revving it to about 7.5K but it keeps making power so I will take it to about 7800 at the track. It is street tuned by me so I have no idea on power output. I estimate in the 500-550WHP range.
 

bastarddsm

15+ Year Contributor
5,448
1,280
Aug 26, 2003
Mendota, Illinois
Your going to want to shift it past 8000. I shift mine at about 9200. It is worth about 3 tenths over shifting at 8000.
 

Rob88

Proven Member
74
0
Jul 1, 2007
Portland, Oregon
I am on 1g/2g combo with ARP rod bolts. Not sure if it will hold up to that many RPMs for long. That will make for one meaty powerband. I thought the 4500-7500 was a big power band I can only imagine another 1000 RPMs.
 

LandSpeed-DSM

10+ Year Contributor
2,546
75
Dec 5, 2011
Chicago, Illinois
I have ARP rod bolts/ACL grooved bearings in my OE Piston/Rod 6-bolt motor, turned it to 9250 for the better part of two years. PtoW's and bearing clearances are opened up a bit. I also ran extra fuel and water/meth injection to keep things cool (read: looser)

Granted it's been down till recently since Oct 2011 while piecing the new combo together, hopefully hitting the rollers tonight.. if she survives I intend to do so for at least another year or so while I'm putting the "built" short-block together.

Disclaimer: Your mileage may vary..

If you spin a bearing or rip the pin out of the bottom of the piston at ~9000 rpm I accept no liability for sharing my anecdotal experience but 8500 once in a while should be perfectly safe if you have the valvetrain for it LOL :D
 

Rob88

Proven Member
74
0
Jul 1, 2007
Portland, Oregon
Yep, I am at .004 PTW clearance and .002 rods and mains. Its a bit noisy on cold startup and quiets down once you get a little heat in it. Rings are gapped at .0020 top and .0022 bottom. it loves the boost. I guess I will up the rev limit to 8800 and start shifting at 8500. It has Manley Springs and Titanium retainers.
 

bastarddsm

15+ Year Contributor
5,448
1,280
Aug 26, 2003
Mendota, Illinois
These turbo's will work good. Best thing I ever did was use a bcs and a bit of custom code to make the boost creep. Right now, I hit 25 at about 4500 then creep to 35 at 7500..
 

Rob88

Proven Member
74
0
Jul 1, 2007
Portland, Oregon
Why not let it have it all? I have an open dump and at 35PSI the wastegate is open the whole time and it holds solid to 7.5K. I guess I will see what happens when I let it rev out.
 

bastarddsm

15+ Year Contributor
5,448
1,280
Aug 26, 2003
Mendota, Illinois
It'll fall off at high rpm. If you let it come up to35 right away it spins the tires from the torque. Its also hard on transmissions.
 

Rob88

Proven Member
74
0
Jul 1, 2007
Portland, Oregon
My car just dead hooked and pulled. 12* of timing on spool up and 22 by about 7K where I level it out. I know it was on 40PSI for a little while because i was having issues with the wastegate not opening. I guess I will find out when I actually let it rev out. I appreciate all the advise. Your car was kind of the reason I went HY35. LOL.
 

Rob88

Proven Member
74
0
Jul 1, 2007
Portland, Oregon
Well, the car developed ignition break up and popped a freeze plug out. I managed to trap 128MPH only being able to rev to about 7500 and it was breaking up from about 5500 and up. Actually had to shift it into 5th and sort of coast the last gear out. I might have hurt the head gasket running it with the ignition breaking up. Ill be looking into that today.

I think I found the reason it was breaking up. Really weird it wasn't making any odd noises.

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Rob88

Proven Member
74
0
Jul 1, 2007
Portland, Oregon
Replacement cam is on its way. I'd really like to find out why this happened before I go just throwing another cam in it. It has the Manley springs and retainers so I can't imagine its valve float. They are new valves and I am pretty sure it isn't bent. The only thing I can gather is I was using some 10W30 Comp cams break in oil and it was like water. Perhaps it wasn't keeping the lifter pumped up at high RPM. I did the oil port mod and used a thicker head gasket because my head is below minimum thickness. I usually have over 100PSI of oil pressure at high RPM. This time around I think I will put a gauge on the factory turbo feed port on the head and see what it reads. Any suggestions would be appreciated.


UPDATE: I got the car back together and drove it. Seems better than ever. I am not sure it was ever quite right. It spools faster and seems to pull harder. Ill try to get it out to the track this weekend but it looks like it will rain.


UPDATE: Fixed the Ignition break up. I let a buddy gap the plugs because I was busy doing other things and he must have gotten side tracked because only one was gapped to .18". The rest were all around 0.28" like they come just out of the box. LOL. I am trying the BR7ES (Non-Projected) as well. The car pulls harder then ever and now will spin in 2nd gear on dry pavement so I know its making more power. When ever we get a dry weekend I will get it out to the track and post up times.
 
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