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1G 1ga popup headlight problem

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coop1985

Proven Member
61
0
Feb 6, 2013
Hinesville, Georgia
I have looked all over this site and google and can not find an answer. When I turn my headlights on the left one goes up as normal, but does not go back down when I turn them off. The left one just goes up and down like crazy. I can adjust them with the red knobs in the bay perfectly fine, so they are not seized. Right now I just have them unplugs and set to about just over 1/2 way up. Do you guys have any ideas what could be causing my dilemma.

Subscribed for your input
 
There is a switch in the dash to raise the headlights without them being on (for washing and whatnot). If that switch is unplugged the 'lights will go up, but not down. It sounds like you have a bad connection somewhere between that switch and the headlight motor.
 
Check the pop-up (underhood main fuse box) and the passing control (driver side kick panel, MB852958) relays.
 

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My passing control relay does not work, may I know where I can buy a new part of MB852958?
Thanks in advance.
 
Just replying to this thread to see if there was an update as well as if it was possible to address the issue that I'm having with my popup headlights that hopefully someone may help me diagnose.

I'm encountering the following with my popup headlights:

Popup Headlight Toggle Switch:
  • Pop up headlights will go up when pressing the pop up headlight switch in. When pressing the switch again, they will not go down. This is with the side toggle switch for the headlights set to off.
  • I will need manually lower the popup headlights with the manual lowering mechanism on the popup headlight motors.
Main Headlight Side Toggle Switch:
  • Pop up headlights will go up when changing the main side toggle switch for the headlights to on.
  • Pop up headlights will not go back down when changing the main side toggle switch for the headlights to off.
  • I will need to manually lower the popup headlights with the manual lowering mechanism on the popup headlight motors.
There is smooth operation of the motor and mechanism to raise the headlights.

Any thoughts or recommendations on where to start? I'm not incredibly electrically capable but will do my best to make sense of recommendations.

Thanks!
 
I would recommend testing the passing control relay, as shown in post #3. Since both motors are doing the same thing, I think it unlikely it is the motors themselves and my experience with the pop-up motor relay, the symptoms we're isolated to a single motor.

So...
1) Locate the relay as shown in the picture.
2) Make sure the headlights are in the down position
3) Remove sub-fusible link #4, which is in the engine bay junction box (30A, labeled "H / Lamp Door" and "Volet Phare").
4) Remove the rubber boots from the motors and turn the knobs 10 full turns clockwise.
5) You'll need a multimeter with standard needle probes that you can stick up into the back of the electrical connector going to the relay. Keep the connector in the relay and the relay mounted to the frame. Probe for battery voltage at pins 5 and 2 as the manual states as you operate the pop-up switch (push button). You'll do these probes separately - one probe (red) to either pin 5 or 2 and the other (black) to a ground.

Alternatively, if you had a spare relay, you could swap it in and see if your results are the same.
 
So got around to checking the passing control relay and I found out that there was a leaky capacitor, so I just replaced the capacitor and voila, headlights pop down now! Thanks for this post and the individuals who chime in to help!
Can you please tell us with the same problem the capacitor number and where did you purchase them? Thank you
 
There are only 4 capacitors in that and they "should" be marked as their value and voltage. More than likely, they are all the same as the 2 circuits in it are identical to each other.
Open yours up and take a look. If you find any numbers on them (they are usually black and look like a barrel with a grey stripe running down the edge), please post them up and we can determine what they are.
A picture would be even better!
Marty
 
Thank you very much for your help. I have attached photos for clarity. If the capacitor fix works I would be more than happy to do a write up on this issue. Yes the capacitors leaked. Hopefully the board is ok.

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Here are the parts needed and thank you for posting a picture and the capacitor values for us all to have. :thumb:
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AND
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Marty
 
I just replaced my passing control relay, and my pop-ups started working for the first time ever (for me). There was a test described in the FSM electrical supplement, but it's not clear to me how to really perform it (relay still mounted??). Now I'm curious to open the old one up and see if the capacitors are also the culprit. I assume the board will have that same corroded marking if this is the case? I'm not any kind of pro at soldering, but I could probably replace a few of those capacitors, given the nice road map above. One of my pop-ups is a bit grumpy with raising and lowering, but probably to be expected after a long period of not cycling through. I can handle mechanical issues much better than electrical ones where the problem can be any of a number of relays, switches, grounds, and whatnot. I can barely follow most wiring diagrams, and this pop-up one has some rather circular logic that escapes me.
 
Lube up the pivot points with WD40 to help "grumpy" out a little bit. ;)
 
I just opened up mine. Looks about the same. Is there a way to repair the circuit board if it needs, beyond only soldering in new capacitors? Like all that corrosion that looks dark green, instead of silvery green. Or is it kind of a lost cause if I now have one that works in my car...

I never would have opened this up if this post didn't show how. :thumb:

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Your correct that the darker colored spots are corrosion. You can also see the green corrosion at the leg of C3 and R6 on the top of the board.

The over all light green tint on the bottom is a type of paint they call the solder mask. To clean up the corrosion you need to first remove the source (the bad caps) and remove the solder mask to reach the copper traces which you can then clean with an abrasive and fix any open parts of the traces.

If you just replace the caps but leave the corrosion it will slowly continue to eat away at the copper until something breaks. Maybe the car or maybe the relay again.

Can yours be fixed, likely yes. It might be fun if you have nothing else to do.
 
I am with Steve, it "looks" repairable if you want to play around so we can all learn. I have resorted to telephone wire if I absolutely can't get a trace to connect but it still works, just kinda rigged like a jumper for last resorts.
Let us know if replacing caps and any bad trace will make it operational again, this is a good thread to watch for keeping the 1ga's on the road (with their popup eyes) :thumb:
 
What I use all depends on how much current I think the circuit (or that part of the circuit) is carrying.

You don't want to use something too thick if the trace is meant to act like a fuse or something too thin if it needs to handle several Amps on needs a low resistance connection to work.

I've cut replacement traces from copper foils, used 12ga solid copper wire, or 30ga wire wrap wire depending on what was required and how rare the item was. With how cheap getting PCB's are today you could spin a new circuit board for less that a few drinks in the bar.

However, I suspect that would work fine again for years just by replacing the caps.
 
Ok, I’ll order the new caps, at least, and put this somewhere halfway down the to-do list. Small projects are nice because I can work on them in the house, instead of my garage (burrrrr). I’ll post the results here, or at least a really good excuse why I never got to it.
 
Lube up the pivot points with WD40 to help "grumpy" out a little bit. ;)
Guess what worked to free up my grumpy popup assembly…
WD40 did what white lithium grease spray did not. I discovered this only after I removed the entire popup mechanism. Of course now I’m derusting and refinishing most of it, but could have gotten it working in 2 minutes if I had headed this advice. Good call LOL
 
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