1g throttle body problems on a 2G

[raped]

ok I have been running a 1G throttle body for a few months now. sometimes I get a miss at low RPMs. I have also had a problem with consistantly lower gas mileage. I have tried running the vacuum lines to the throttle body in different ways and the problem has not gone away, including the way suggested by RRE. Does anybody know how to get the 1G throttle body to perform exactly like the 2G does. Is it possible to some how source the vacuum lines exactly as they would be on the stock 2G throttle body? Thanks for any input.

 

[ECLIPSE4x4]

I am gonna reurect this becasue I have found that I do not have mine set up right. The rre says to cap off line "E" and "A1", which is supposed to be the angled one, well mie is labeled "A2".

Does anyone have some CLEARER pics of this as the ones are RRE's site you can not tell shit.

Better pics of the "T" and where they go to.

TIA

 

[cait sith]

I hooked mine up exactly like the stock 2G when I did a swap, with a vacuum hose for my MAP sensor hooked up to the angled one. (which isn't working right, giving me a CEL, I believe...) The letters line right up between the two gens, and the bodies themselves are very similar other than size.

Gas mileage is a bit lower than my 7 bolt I believe, although I haven't really driven it right, so I'm going to keep better track of the tank I just filled up with. Performance is at least on par or better than the 7 bolt motor, but I've still got bugs to hammer.

Another solution is just to get rid of the EGR and all the vacuum hoses, which would be the best bet, I think.

 

[ECLIPSE4x4]

I found out how it goes. I have emissions testing so removing the EGR trash is out of the question.

Cap the angled line.
Cap Line "E" on TB.
Split line "P" running to TB and insert "T" fitting
Connect line "E" to "T" fitting in line "P"

 

[Raph]

^^so u mean that i gotta hook up "P" to TB and "E" to "P" (using a T fitting)right?

 

[RamenPride]

No CEL, so I'm pretty sure that's right

 

[1LE]

What size hose/"T" does one use? I've been searching and googling all over the place and no one ever seems to mention that one important little fact

 

[VBGSX]

What size hose/"T" does one use? I've been searching and googling all over the place and no one ever seems to mention that one important little fact

Take the vacuum hose to ANY auto parts place and match up the T to your hose....simple

As far as the above pic.....That's exactly how mine is set up.
I tested all the vacuum lines between the 2g and 1g vacuum ports( and sourced where they lead to within the TB)just to make sure that mine was hooked up right.
That pic should be correct.
I can also post my pic if needed.

 

[1LE]

There's an awful lot of sizes, with some of them being pretty close. That's the problem with trying to just match them up. I checked with a local shop and they said that it's 4mm vacuum hose. I then used 5/32" T's and caps (3.96mm) from a local parts store. We'll see if it corrects my weird EGR error that only occurs at idle Bad news is though, I cleared the codes and found a catalyst inefficiency code as well. Argh, I *have* a cat, and it's less than a year old!

 

[DSMJim]

I have all four of mine capped off and I shot two of the caps off at the track with 25psi of boost. Make sure you put some little zip ties on them cause if you don't they are gonna fly off. They stayed on at 22psi but 25psi must have been the breaking point.

 

[1LE]

I have all four of mine capped off and I shot two of the caps off at the track with 25psi of boost. Make sure you put some little zip ties on them cause if you don't they are gonna fly off. They stayed on at 22psi but 25psi must have been the breaking point.

Do you have any vacuum hoses left anywhere? If so, do you have to ziptie those too? Just curious. I don't think I'm gonna have a problem since I only run 13.5psi of boost though...

 

[VBGSX]

Do you have any vacuum hoses left anywhere? If so, do you have to ziptie those too? Just curious. I don't think I'm gonna have a problem since I only run 13.5psi of boost though...

I know that question was directed at DSMjim but I have an answer for you.

He already mentioned that he ran 22psi without them popping off or being zip tied.
I run 19-20 psi daily without them being zip tied. I think you'll be fine running 13.5.
To make sure, you should pressure test your intake. You'll not only check for leaks through out your system but you'll also make sure that they'll stay on at a given pressure.

But on the other hand, zip ties are cheap and an added bit of security.

Good luck

 

[1LE]

I know that question was directed at DSMjim but I have an answer for you.

He already mentioned that he ran 22psi without them popping off or being zip tied.
I run 19-20 psi daily without them being zip tied. I think you'll be fine running 13.5.
To make sure, you should pressure test your intake. You'll not only check for leaks through out your system but you'll also make sure that they'll stay on at a given pressure.

But on the other hand, zip ties are cheap and an added bit of security.

Good luck

Thanks for the input.

I have a spare, so if it blows off, I'll be ready! It's really a tight fit, seems much tighter to put the caps on, than it does to put the hoses on (but, with the cap, there's a whole lot less to push on too). I'd guess I'm probably more likely to blow one of the hoses off than the cap.

I'm trying to avoid zip tying as there's far too many on the car already and I HATE trying to cut them off again everytime I need to re-arrange things!

 

[VBGSX]

I can understand about all the zip ties....

I don't think you'll have any problems without them as long as you have the correct size vacuum hose
If you're still worried, here's a couple things that will keep them on longer.
1. Clean all the nipples with alcohol or some non oily cleaner. Any oil or grease on the nipple will help the rubber vacuum hose to slip off easier under boost. This is all that's really needed

2. BUT, If you want to take it one step further. After its clean, spray a little hairspray on the nipple and slide the vacuum hose over it. It will act as a adhesive once it's dry.

I know we're getting off topic but I hope this helps

 

[DSMJim]

Do you have any vacuum hoses left anywhere? If so, do you have to ziptie those too? Just curious. I don't think I'm gonna have a problem since I only run 13.5psi of boost though...

All my other vaccum hose connections have a barbed end on them which goes a really long way to holding the vac hose on well. Those fittings on the top of the throttle body are just a straight fitting with no barbed end which is not great for holding vac plugs on (so I found out) that will be the only spot I will have them tied that you can see. On my magnus manifold even with the barbed fittings I put zip ties on them just so they didn't come off just incase cause thats hard to see and fix at the track if one were to pop off.

 

[1LE]

All my other vaccum hose connections have a barbed end on them which goes a really long way to holding the vac hose on well. Those fittings on the top of the throttle body are just a straight fitting with no barbed end which is not great for holding vac plugs on (so I found out) that will be the only spot I will have them tied that you can see. On my magnus manifold even with the barbed fittings I put zip ties on them just so they didn't come off just incase cause thats hard to see and fix at the track if one were to pop off.

Interesting, they *are* barbed on my 1g TB!

 

[98spydert]

Can someone post a picture of the stock throttle body and vac lines for the 98-99 w/ only two nipples?