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1G 1g rod bearing wear. HELP!

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rtincher22085

10+ Year Contributor
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Aug 17, 2010
Rockland, Maine
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Is this normal bearing wear these are rod bearings. Had some sort of knocking pulled engine to see this I need opinions and the clearances were .003 this engine only had 300 miles on it. The crank was polished and cleaned before install. I did everything right so whats the issue.
 
Could the knock have been piston slap? Did you check piston to wall clearance?

The three sets of rods bearings I have seen (I know not many) dont look any worse or better than them. No burn marks from extremely high oil pressure and its doesnt look like any of them spun.

edit:
Did you switch the rod caps? The caps are not interchangeable and must go with there original rod. It looks like there is more wear on one side of each half indicating the rod caps were reversed or switched.
 
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I never switched the rod caps and they were torqued to 42 lbs that is what it indicated in the manual on the eagle rods. Could be piston slap the work was done by a reputable machine shop and my cylinder one had to be sleeved they had my pistons they couldn't have messed I can re install them them correct?

JE pistons too I can't remember the clearance I know it isn't loose, like the rock back and forth situations I been seeing
 
If you look at Clevite 77 bearing failure analysis guide. It looks like your journals for your rods were distorted. Either bad rods (not machined correctly) or the rods were not assemblied correctly, ie misalignment or switched rod caps.
 
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Thats weird that you say this cause I never installed the caps wrong they way they came assembled, it is the way I installed them. Could an oil plug coming out wile driving. cause this much damage if i turned it off before it was completely empty?. rookie mistake.
 
What do the mains look like?

That's not typical damage from improper cap installation. Usually the motor will lock up or be very stiff if that is the case. It certainly wouldn't have run for any period of time without spinning a bearing.

What kind of lube did you use on the bolt threads?

Bearing clearance? Side clearance?

Do the rod bearings have any crush left in them?

What kind of oil?
 
I'd say from the looks of it the rod journals weren't entirely true/perfectly round. Did you have a machinist mic the crank and see if it was round?
 
What do the mains look like?

That's not typical damage from improper cap installation. Usually the motor will lock up or be very stiff if that is the case. It certainly wouldn't have run for any period of time without spinning a bearing.

What kind of lube did you use on the bolt threads?

Bearing clearance? Side clearance?

Do the rod bearings have any crush left in them?

What kind of oil?

I used the arp lube and tourqued to 42lbs clearances were .003 on all, i used lukas assembly lube, and the bearings never crushed. I used regular 5-30 to break it in seeing it is cold here in maine. and i did the motoman break in and haven't been to easy. What does it look like to you? i had a faint knock it wasn't harsh.

JE Pistons are known for piston slap for the record.

see didn't know right off if it was or not, does it sound similar to a faint knocking? I had heard about it and my bores are within tolerance. i have a you tube video with it running cold.

<iframe title="YouTube video player" width="480" height="390" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/jhF_KFokQZg" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
"crush" refers to how tight the bearings fit into the rod. When you roll them in you should need to use a little force to install them in the rod and the cap. The tighter they fit, the more "crush" they have. Without the proper amount of crush, the bearing will lose it's concentricity which wont allow proper lubrication.
 
They were tight they rolled in fine, a bit of dragg to it when I put them in. I ordered some new ones acl I believe. I will see with these ones too.
 
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