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1g or 2g Timing Belt vfaq?

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mattasi

15+ Year Contributor
838
5
Feb 22, 2008
Springfield, Oregon
Ok this might be a dumb question but i wanted to make sure... I have a 6 bolt motor in my 2g. I am getting ready to do my first timing belt ever, because i'm not sure when it was last done, and it is the last thing to do before I get it dyno tuned :). My question is do I follow instructions from the 1g vfaq or the 2g vfaq? Does it matter?

Thanks guys also any first timer, timing belt secrets I should know? I have been reading and reading and feel ok about doing this job myself. If i mess this up though I risk loosing a stage 4 head from dsmparts.com or worse...
 
What do you think you should follow? What motor do you have?

Ok. Now that youve figured that out. When you go to take it apart, make sure everything is lined up as if you were done, and not about to tear it down. Follow the directions to a T. Do not try to rush this. If you do, you will fail.
 
Well "1g motor+2g car=3g", use the 3g timing guide.

No seriously, use the 1g, you have a 1g engine so you would base it off that.

Make sure when you are done it turns over by hand and that the marks line up every other time. That way you don't crank it and ruin the head.
 
Ok that's what I thought the 6 bolt, 1g vfaq. Thanks VETTE_50_TH, i will go very very slow, this car isn't my DD so I can have what ever down time it takes..Thanks for the tips..
 
When you compress the hydraulic tensioner in a vice take it slow and easy so you won't ruing the tensioner.
 
Another tip is to get the Jay Racing timing kit tool. Unfortunately the rod they supply doesnt work with us 1g in a 2g because the bracket is in the way. Trust me, i know. But their cam lock is a gods send and tool to rotate the tensioner pulley is a blessing too. Especially with the motor in the car.

Once youve done it once, its very simple and when you understand what you are doing, it comes naturally. My first time took me a while to get it. But its no problem now. How i was able to compress the auto tensioner is by using a large c clamp. I did this with the motor in so it is possible. I put one side of the clamp underneath the tensioner and the other on top of the tensioner bracket. And you slowly compress it untill its in spec. About the size of a 1/8 drill bit i think.

Again, follow the directions and youll be fine. IF you have any other questions, do hestitate to ask.

When you compress the hydraulic tensioner in a vice take it slow and easy so you won't ruing the tensioner.

Or you compress it before you take it off. Its basically set, youll need jsut a little more to lock it in with the grenade pin.

Oh, btw, thats the other proper way to test if its height is set properly. By being able to move the pin freely in and out.
 
If you end up with the gears a tooth off or so then you will have to take that shit back apart and compress it again. It's easiest to just use a vice.

How did you compress it with a c-clamp? I tried that with three different clamps and it either bent or snapped everyone of them.
 
You shouldnt be pulling the pin out until its completely set. Before he takes the belt off, it would behoove him to compress the auto tensioner by using the jay racing rod, which as i said earlier, he cant use; or using a c-clamp on the bracket and auto tensioner.

Like i said, i had one that was the right size to fit below the water pump and long enough to compress underneath the body of the auto tensioner. How did you bend or snap a metal c clamp?
 
The break trying to compress the tensioner. I've never compressed it with it on the engine. Seems it's much easier to just pull it off, throw it in a vice and compress it.

I tried putting it in a c-clamp and the first one I noticed slowly bending (cheapy), The next two just plain out snapped. So, I only use a vice now.
 
I dont think you understand.

He has a 2g with a 6 bolt. You might be unfamiliar with this but as i said, you cant use the OEM tensioner tool to compress it because the motor bracket is in the way. Nor can you use the Jay Racing Kit. Only part of it (the cam stay tool and piece to rotate the tensioner pulley.) So with that, you have to still compress the tensioner while its on the car or not. He has to find something to compress the tensioner when he goes to make the belt taught. So he might as well do it before he takes it off to save some time. Do you understand what im saying? Or do i need to take some pics?
 
Dude, I understand 100% how to do a timing job, I have done quite a few. My methods obviously vary from yours. As they will with anyone that has enough sense to work on an engine in the first place.

The mount doesn't have to stay on when doing a timing job, it can be removed quite easily, and the engine supported with a jack. I have never used a tensioner tool, or cam stays or whatever the hell they are called. And every timing job I have done has worked out perfectly, never jumped time, never snapped belts. Nothing.

I know he has to compress it somehow. That much is obvious, but thanks for pointing it out anyways. I just find it easier to remove and compress than to leave it on the engine and compress it.
 
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Yea, VETTE_50_TH, if you could post pics of this I would understand better but I think rlacasse1 is talking about the compressing of the tensioner that you put the 1/16" allen wrench into. And then I think VETTE_50_TH is talking about compressing the actual tensioner arm that the M8x1.25 threaded tool should be used to make the belt tight before pulling the pin out on the other tensioner...haha i'm sure this will all make more sence to me later.

Also I will be replacing all the parts to do with a timing belt change, the pulleys, seals, water pump, etc... with new OEM parts. I am trying to find more info on how hard it is to change the water pump in the car...Would you say it's really tricky or not to bad?
 
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